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Driveability issue

1191 Views 6 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  93mustang
Hi all. I have an 88 mustang that isn't running right. I tried to pull the codes but I guess I;m not doing it right or something...Basically when the car is cold, I can start it and it will fire up and stay running as long as I am giving it throttle or turn the idle screw out far enough that it will stay running (which seems to be quite a bit). If I start it with the maf unplugged it will start with the throttle plate completely closed and idle perfectly.

I should mention I installed new gt40x heads and a trickflow stg 1 cam. I installed the cam dot to dot and the timing is set at 14 deg base.

Symptoms: Poor idle, popping in intake, backfiring on deceleration, and a rapid bucking sensation when trying to cruise at a steady speed around 2-3k rpm.

When I disconnect the Mass air sensor it will start up cold no problem and idle well. No missing or anything, sounds very healthy

Things I have already done:

1.Set TPS voltage and checked for dead spots - OK

2.Mass air conversion with Pro M harness

3.Checked part number on mass air flow sensor - is correct for 5.0
mustang with 19lb inj

4.Tried cleaning sensor - no change

5. Checked vacuum lines - all are hooked up

6. Had a spark plug wire arcing to disptick. Rotor, cap, plugs, and wires are all new. Helped but still not fixed.

7. With key on engine off, I checked terminals A and B on the MAF sensor connector, unplugged from the sensor. From what I understand I must have more than 10.5 volts. I had 12v

8. I then checked the resistance between C & D and B&D. I found above 10,000 ohms on both of those circuits which I think is normal.

9. When I had the engine running, I had power and ground on A & B, but when I tried to get a voltage reading between C & D, I could not get one, which makes me think there is an open circuit inside the mass air sensor because as I said before, my resistance was over 10,000 ohms with the which is what ford's specifies in their test procedure.

I'm not sure if it means anything but when I had the key on, engine off I checked voltage between C & B and had 5.69v.

If anyone has any advice it would be appreciated.
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You have a mass air computer, right?

Did you unhook and cap the vacuum line to the BAP sensor on the firewall?


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You have a mass air computer, right?

Did you unhook and cap the vacuum line to the BAP sensor on the firewall?


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When I did my mass air conversion instructions said to leave
BAP connected and vacuum port open.
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You'll leave the vacuum port on the BAP open, but you'll want to be sure to cap the line you removed to prevent a vacuum leak.


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You'll leave the vacuum port on the BAP open, but you'll want to be sure to cap the line you removed to prevent a vacuum leak.


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Absolutely.
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Hi all. I have an 88 mustang that isn't running right. I tried to pull the codes but I guess I;m not doing it right or something....

DIY KOEO/KOER/Cylinder Balance Self-Test Procedure
I had a bad MAF sensor twice. I found that if you where to unplug it and the car would idle fine, the MAF sensor is shot. What product did you use to clean the sensor? Using the wrong product can damage it. Or It could have been damaged while taking it out and reinstalling it. If you unplug the MAF sensor while the car is running it should die. If it does continue to run, your MAF sensor is shot. This from my experiences. I may be wrong, but it happened twice to me. I also talked about this to a Ford certified mechanic and was told, if it is running fine, leave it alone. Come across to me as, don't over clean it.
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