[stunnedjack]

i have a 2004 mustang gt. and my driver side door lock wont lock with the remote or the console. i have to manually lock it and unlock it.

doese anyone have a reason for this

 

[dakine858]

i have a 2004 mustang gt. and my driver side door lock wont lock with the remote or the console. i have to manually lock it and unlock it.

doese anyone have a reason for this

Yep, the solenoid for that door lock is toast. Replace it and you'll be good to go.

 

[stunnedjack]

ok thanks, thats kinda what i thought it was

 

[dakine858]

ok thanks, thats kinda what i thought it was

Yeah, luckily when an 1 automatic door lock quits on you but still works manually, it's always a bad solenoid. If both stop working at the same time, chances are its an electrical short.

 

[SuperPonylover]

Yeah, luckily when an 1 automatic door lock quits on you but still works manually, it's always a bad solenoid. If both stop working at the same time, chances are its an electrical short.

I had this same problem happen on a 2001, only I can LOCK my door from the remote and from the passenger side door lock, but the driver side door lock doesn't work. The funny story is that the UNLOCK feature of the same button works great! :/ Any hints?

 

[SoCal2V]

I had this same problem happen on a 2001, only I can LOCK my door from the remote and from the passenger side door lock, but the driver side door lock doesn't work. The funny story is that the UNLOCK feature of the same button works great! :/ Any hints?

So wait, let me get this right.... You can lock the driver door using the switch on the passenger door, or using the keychain remote, but not with the switch on the driver door, right? And I'm assuming you can push the thing down manually with your finger as well. Okay, well then I would suspect the switch. If you have a voltmeter, put it on the continuity test setting and then pull the switchpanel out and backprobe the terminals of the lock switch and verify that the circuit is not closing (no continuity) when you push the "lock" button. If it doesn't close, then bad switch. If it does, then I don't know. If you don't have a meter then you could always take the switch from the passenger side and try it on the driver door; if it works then your problem is confirmed. Should you need a new switch, latemodelrestoration.com has them.

 

[SuperPonylover]

So wait, let me get this right.... You can lock the driver door using the switch on the passenger door, or using the keychain remote, but not with the switch on the driver door, right? And I'm assuming you can push the thing down manually with your finger as well. Okay, well then I would suspect the switch. If you have a voltmeter, put it on the continuity test setting and then pull the switchpanel out and backprobe the terminals of the lock switch and verify that the circuit is not closing (no continuity) when you push the "lock" button. If it doesn't close, then bad switch. If it does, then I don't know. If you don't have a meter then you could always take the switch from the passenger side and try it on the driver door; if it works then your problem is confirmed. Should you need a new switch, latemodelrestoration.com has them.

Yeah, you got it. I'm one step ahead though. I already took the driver side LOCK/UNLOCK switch out, tested for continuity and it was alright. Then jumped the wires in the panel box and GROUND (Purple and White) to UNLOCK (GREEN) works fine, GROUND (Purple and White) to LOCK (whatever color lol) does not even blink, but the passenger side is able to action both functions. I'm thinking it's something simple, but I'm gonna retest everything. This is some homework, huh!? :scratchchin

 

[jjandascog]

Here is the schematic of the door lock circuit if that help in you diagnosis

 

[SuperPonylover]

Here is the schematic of the door lock circuit if that help in you diagnosis

Have I said lately how much you rock? You're like the best friend I get to cheat from in math class. lol :heha:
:gringreenyeh, you are awesome. Thank you for that! :wavey

 

[SuperPonylover]

Negative visual on the target.

Ok, I retested everything and let's go by steps to stay organized.
Took the whole panel off and the problem as described earlier:
-door lock can be operated from the remote, door knob and the Passenger LOCK button, but the Driver side "LOCK" feature is not working.
I retested the switch box for continuity again.
-All leads work OPEN as they should until you action LOCK or UNLOCK, then continuity shows a CLOSED circuit according to the side being pressed without a problem.
Just for giggles and laughs I stuck the test leads to test for continuity in the wires themselves and got a funny result. Stay with me here while I explain it as it happened.

Green = LOCK
White + Purple = NEUTRAL/GROUND
Purple = UNLOCK

-Between LOCK and NEUTRAL/GROUND, no continuity.
-Between LOCK and UNLOCK, no continuity.
-Between UNLOCK and NEUTRAL/GROUND, continuity is permanent.

I'm thinking somewhere in the system there is a stuck solenoid or short but the problem is the only solenoids I know is number 43 in the under-dash panel, and the other solenoid is in the door actuator, which if it WAS BAD, it wouldn't work with the Passenger Side LOCK button; right? Any other educated guesses here? Crossed wire? Generic Electronic Module short? Or am I missing something. Any other solenoid I'm forgetting to count? Grrr! :head_shot:
(As of right now, I'm replacing number 43 and will keep you all posted with the result.)

~Alex