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Discussion Starter #1
hey,
i have a 1966 mustang with 4 wheel drum brakes, and they recently failed on me. luckily i was going slow enough that having my foot out the door was sufficient to stop the car. i want to increase the safety of my car, but i don't want to change it to disk brakes for many reasons, and i've read that adding a dual chamber master cylinder will help prevent total brake failure. has anyone done this/ know what a good choice of master cylinder would be?
Thanks
Daniel
 

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:smilie Welcome to AFM

Just went through the same thing with my 65 a few months ago. It's kind of a crap shoot with single bowl masters. It's all or nothing.

You have to use a dual bowl master cylinder from a 67 since that's the first year this was offered. The best deal I could find was CJ Pony that sells a kit. The kit includes the dual bowl master and the prebent brake lines. You can use your existing junction block and the installation is fairly standard. The only hitch is that you have to reuse the push rod from your 66 master cylinder. Using the 67 push rod that's enclosed will make the pedal too low. Total price was $65. Shipping is free. I gave you the link to CJ's below. Check out part # DBC 1. Good Luck. :bigthumbsup

www.cjponyparts.com
 

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65 Fixup gave you the right advice. He also gave you a picture of a very nice installation. Save the picture. If you make yours look like his you will be in good shape.
 

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I did this to my 65 FB in 74, and consider it the wisest and best mod I have done to the car, I've had the brakes go out on the single mc and had to use the (emergency) parking brake to stop the car. Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks,
i think i will be ordering that kit within the next few days. it seems like a simple enough installation that i could do in a few hours?
 

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You can also go to your local auto parts store & get the master cyl for a 67 at less than half the cost of CJ's.

I bought mine from Advance auto for about $23 & used my 66 master cyl as a core. They sell reman Cardone units.

Of course, you will have to bend your lines. Which isn't that hard.

There are all kinds of write ups on this subject.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks guys, i bought the kit and installed it. not as easy as i expected it to be. i had to bend the lines more to get them to fit right, and i had to buy a bunch of fittings and adapters. all i have left to do is replace the rubber boot on the inside of the car, but its really hard to reach. is it a necessary part?
 

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thanks guys, i bought the kit and installed it. not as easy as i expected it to be. i had to bend the lines more to get them to fit right, and i had to buy a bunch of fittings and adapters. all i have left to do is replace the rubber boot on the inside of the car, but its really hard to reach. is it a necessary part?
Hi,
If you are talking about the dust boot, to do it right, it should be there.
That dust boot should have gone on before that end was placed through the firewall.
It can be done, but, it's going to be tight, as I recall.
Good Luck!
 

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I bought the CJ kit when I did my '67 MC upgrade; the lines didn't help me much because I was also upgrading to power brakes, and the kit they had at the time only fit the manual swap. Still had some nice bits I don't think I would have been able to easily locate otherwise, so def. worth the money.

I bought my MC at Autozone for about $20. The only issue I had was finding fittings to adapt the lines to the MC, which wasn't such a big deal after a couple trips to O'Riley's.

Not too much info out there on the MC only swap; everything is discdiscdisc but what about us who can't afford the disc brake upgrade and want to have a safe car while we save up the money?

What was the question? Anyway, if you need more help please let us know.

Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #10
@kenash
yeah, im talking about the dust boot. i know it should be on for it to be right, but will it affect the brakes to not have it on? i already have the master cylinder bolted in place with the lines attached and the brakes bled, so i really dont want to take it back out if its not going to affect it.
 

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@kenash
yeah, im talking about the dust boot. i know it should be on for it to be right, but will it affect the brakes to not have it on? i already have the master cylinder bolted in place with the lines attached and the brakes bled, so i really dont want to take it back out if its not going to affect it.

OK. In the sense of your brakes working in the short term? No problem. But think longer term. That rubber boot reduces, to a great extent, any dust, grit, contaminants etc. from entering the micro-finished bore and eventually scoring which will lead to leaks. Brake fluid is bad for both carpet and any underlying paint, as dissolves paint and screws up carpet, not to mention your wife's/girl friend's favorite heels. Not good for you!
Each time you apply the brakes, the M/C piston is depressed, this exposes that portion of the bore to contaminants. When the piston returns, there is the chance the rubber seal will drag those contaminants into the bore. Those boots fit very tightly both the bore opening and the push rod shaft.

This is my fair assessment based on my experience and best work practices.
The ball is in your court!
 
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