[Preston951]

Let me start this off with a little overview. First off, THIS THING WORKS. I'm very happy with it overall. However, there were some things I had to do myself to have the whole thing functioning properly. I was skeptical about this thing at first, as it claimed to "raise horsepower" laugh among the things it would actually do. It was also aimed towards an "IMPORT" audience, although it was listed as universal (all the kits are the same, whether its for your Civic or Corolla ahahah! :gringreen The one I bought was supposedly for Nissans, but the same as all the others. I bought the cheapest I could find! :hihi An oil separator on our cars goes in between the driver's side valve cover and the intake manifold. It separates the aerated oil that would go through the intake manifold & be reburned... Causing "gunking" around your CMCVs (very bad!). It's done for emissions reasons, but we drive Mustangs - Do we care about that? :scratchchin

After learning about the recirculation of this harmful oil/dirt/etc, after doing some research, I decided I would need to put one in my 'Stang eventually. It would help the engine run CLEAN and last longer... WOOT! The price was RIDICULOUS though - UPR oil catch can for $100!? I mean, in the scheme of things, not so bad, but surely there could be something cheaper? I saw some DIY oil catch cans, but I thought... Why not check eBay? Sure enough... 100's of results. They didn't look terrible, and with many having the price tag of only $20... I had to make a thread on here asking about them. Not too many words of advice or feedback. I figured, What the hell, it's only $20! And ordered a red ebaY oil catch can. (They sell tons of colors - black, red, silver, blue, etc.)

(By the way, there are a TON of pictures & they'll be mentioned throughout this - I'll attach them)

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It arrived in the mail in about 3 days from ordering. $20 with free 3 day shipping is hard to beat! :happyhapp
Anyways, it was in a nice box. This thing was ENORMOUS. I opened it up, to find an ENORMOUS red can covered in bubble wrap. E-NOR-MOUS. I couldn't believe it! The pictures on ebaY do it NO justice. The UPR & other catch cans are only a few inches big... Look at the pic of it next to a ruler! :nogrinner There was some skinny blue hose, about 2 inches of thicker blue hose with some clamps on it, a nice metal adapter piece, another adapter piece with NO holes in it (manufacturing error I think... :nono: ), a few more clamps, some 1 sided foam, 2 brackets, and 2 screws. (More pics below)

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Problems with the kit for my car:

After messing around with the whole kit, searching around for a place to mount it in the engine bay (I have the stock airbox), and looking at hose sizes... I discovered the following:
I needed to make a bracket to mount this (more info on the bracket I made in another post)
I need to replace this terrible blue hose
I need 2 more nuts/bolts
I need 2 more clamps
This thing isn't airtight! Agh!

First off, I read on a Corvette forum that this blue hose works okay in a cool engine, but once you get the engine warmed up it'll collapse on itself from heat & vacuum. That's not good! :nono: So I needed to replace that with something that could withstand heat and vacuum.

To mount the clamps together, you need 4 nuts/bolts. The kit only came with 2... :headscratch: Anyways, I had some lying around and put it together easily.

Because one of the adapter pieces wasn't drilled through madas:; you get what you pay for), I decided on doing the next best thing, if not better - Pushing the smaller hose into the larger one. I needed 2 more clamps for this and bought some.

To see if it was airtight, I put the metal plug in the bottom, covered one of the valves with my finger, then blew into the other. Damnit. It's NOT airtight! There was air coming out from the little clear "display hose" on the side of it. It was an easy fix though - Some Gorilla Glue & it was good. (You DON'T want unmetered air in the engine! :thumbdown).

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Extra Materials needed:

(WARNING: The following sizes for hoses are specific to my application so I'd recommend you buy a little extra)

• 2 feet 1/2" heater hose : $4 (I bought 3, way too much)
• 6 inches of 5/16" heater hose : $2
• 4 semi-large clamps : $4
• 2 extra nuts/bolts : (probably like $0.10 somewhere, I didn't have to buy them)

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Installation instructions:

The S197 GT has a 1/2" size hose, and the ebaY oil separator has 5/16" valves on it. In order to fix this problem, a few inches of the 5/16" put on the oil separator valves, tightened with clamps will do the trick. You can then fit the loose end of the 5/16" into the 1/2" heater hose. Then use another clamp to tighten the point they intersect tight enough so they won't come apart. Take each end of the now long 1/2" heater hose to the manifold & valve covers & measure out how much you need - the more the better. The valve in the middle of the can goes out, to the manifold. The valve to the "right/left" of the middle valve is the in valve, and goes to the valve cover. Cut each to your needing; then slide the 1/2" heater hose directly onto the manifold & valve cover then tighten each on with 2 more clamps. Tighten ALL the clamps up TIGHT - You don't want anything coming apart while you're driving. Check everything over; don't forget about the little metal plug that screws into the bottom! I put the stock hose piece in my car in a bag (it had quite a bit of gross oil in it...) along with a flathead screw driver and some microfiber clothes in case something went wrong & I needed it to be back to stock. I'd recommend everyone do this, even though I had no problems. It's good insurance however! :laugh:

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RESULTS.

I've had this on for over a week now. That's about 200 miles of driving. (The first day I went WOT up to about 80, and apparently that's when the most blow-by happens.) I became impatient & checked it today: WOW. It works (PICSSS!!)! Because of some design in the can, I wasn't able to pour anything out, but I was able to see it all by putting the can on its side & seeing it through the clear tube (gross). There couldn't have been more than 2 tablespoons of oil, but once more is in there, I should be able to get it out. I really liked to see it was working! $30 all together well spent! :bigthumbsup

Luckily I only have close to 5000 miles on my Stang, so this should help keep the engine healthy a lot longer! If every 200 miles = 2 tablespoons, I'll probably only have to empty it out every 1000-1500 miles... This tank is enormous!

(More on the clamp & placement in another post!)

 

[Preston951]

About the mounting bracket:

For mounting the can to the car... I was VERY limited on space. I still have the stock airbox in, so I didn't have many options on placement. I also didn't want to drill any holes in the car! :happyhapp

So... I got to thinking... Hey! I'll use the strut tower mount bolt!

I had some thin sheet metal aluminum lying around and used metal sheers to cut out a nice looking shape. I bent it at a 90 degree angle, then drilled one hole for the strut mount and 2 for the bracket that attached to the can via clamp. I test fit the whole thing, and once I got a perfect fit, I made 2 more nearly identical pieces.

I then Gorilla-Glued the 3 pieces together, clamped them, let them dry, then cut off the extra edges. I spray painted the whole clamp with flat-black Rust-O-Leum; Nothing special, just their regular paint (not even their high-heat formula! :bigthumbsup ). It's rated up to 200 degrees, but I thought I'd give it a shot. 4 coats of that did the trick.

In order to not hear rattling all the time, I lined the touching edges and covered a few other areas with 1/16" thick single-sided foam. It's held up excellent so far.

Torque everything down & you're set! :shiny:

 

[stlwagon]

Very good! Glad it's working.

 

[jaja6009]

I have a UPR catch can and while it was really expensive I like it because I am switching over to UPR polished pieces under the hood and it matches them. The UPR kit comes with the wrong size fittings and hoses (They want you to se it on the passenger side which is wrong) so I had to order new fittings and new hose as the cheap auto part store 5/8 inch hose I bought seems to be almost collapsing at idle. Im just waiting until the new hose comes(Its on back order). I have some pics up when its installed.

 

[stlwagon]

I have a UPR catch can and while it was really expensive I like it because I am switching over to UPR polished pieces under the hood and it matches them. The UPR kit comes with the wrong size fittings and hoses (They want you to se it on the passenger side which is wrong) so I had to order new fittings and new hose as the cheap auto part store 5/8 inch hose I bought seems to be almost collapsing at idle. Im just waiting until the new hose comes(Its on back order). I have some pics up when its installed.

What kind of hose did you order?

 

[pcfrisch]

I bought a similar designed one from Ebay. It is square rather than round. It also leaks in the same area as yours.
I have yet to install it.

By the way, I have heard that heater hose will break down from the oil.

 

[stlwagon]

I bought a similar designed one from Ebay. It is square rather than round. It also leaks in the same area as yours.
I have yet to install it.

By the way, I have heard that heater hose will break down from the oil.

True... the hose needs to be rated for vacuum and oil/hydraulic fluid.

 

[jaja6009]

True... the hose needs to be rated for vacuum and oil/hydraulic fluid.

I bought some rather expensive Earls Performance hose in black. Does this sound like it will work?

"Earl's Super Stock hose is a high quality synthetic rubber hose, reinforced by a full-coverage interior braided fabric sheath. This superior replacement hose for original equipment applications has recently found favor with professional racing teams. Available in blue or black, Super Stock is rated at 250 psi and 250 degrees F continuous service. To prevent collapse in suction service or for very tight bends, Earl's supplies an internal spiral reinforcing wire. It's suitable for fuel, oil, and water."

I got it in 10AN with should match up with my new 5/8' fittings on the can, correct?
I also did what you told another guy to Stlwagon. I bought a new tube from Rockauto and cut off the end quick fittings so I can use them on the hose. Im gonna paint the clamps black. The hose is on backorder from Summit. As soon as its done Ill post some pics. This catch can got really expensive really quick.

 

[amustangrocks]

it is true about the hose, like blowing a head gasket and oil gets into the coolant, pretty much have to replace all your hoses.

i saw this first thread and i ordered one from ebay too for my v6. the price of the can is actually 10.00 and 10.00 for shipping. i cant believe they can machine all the aluminum and brass parts, paint it and assemble, plus throw in some stainless clamps for 10.00. pretty amazing. its been sitting in the garage for a couple weeks. the v6 is set up a little different. my thought was to put it on the drivers side between the valve cover and the cai where the hose goes in just before the throttle body. does the v8 have a hose into the cai also?( after cleaning the throttle body a couple times) any thoughts?

i think the short blue hose with the undrilled plug is just that. its a plug for some other application. the brass fittings on the can dont match the hose sizes on the v6 either. my thought there was to double up the hoses like you did only using a short pc right on the brass fitting on the can and a clamp. i was worried about volume of air/vacuum reducing the hose at the can. any thoughts there?

on the mounting, the upper bracket on the shock tower is being used but just below it there are a couple unused pre drilled holes in the strut tower that will work out great with a fabricated bracket and place the can lower than the valve cover.

any feedback from you guys would be great, thanks

 

[Preston951]

I bought a similar designed one from Ebay. It is square rather than round. It also leaks in the same area as yours.
I have yet to install it.

By the way, I have heard that heater hose will break down from the oil.

True... the hose needs to be rated for vacuum and oil/hydraulic fluid.

Agh, this is no good! :nono: That sucks. Oh well, once it becomes a problem I'll probably do a breather or maybe go back to stock. What would you recommend? Either replacing this hose with something better, or going strait to a breather? And this stuff is meant for fuel lines, so why wouldn't it deteriorate from gasoline? :scratchchin

I bought some rather expensive Earls Performance hose in black. Does this sound like it will work?

"Earl's Super Stock hose is a high quality synthetic rubber hose, reinforced by a full-coverage interior braided fabric sheath. This superior replacement hose for original equipment applications has recently found favor with professional racing teams. Available in blue or black, Super Stock is rated at 250 psi and 250 degrees F continuous service. To prevent collapse in suction service or for very tight bends, Earl's supplies an internal spiral reinforcing wire. It's suitable for fuel, oil, and water."

I got it in 10AN with should match up with my new 5/8' fittings on the can, correct?
I also did what you told another guy to Stlwagon. I bought a new tube from Rockauto and cut off the end quick fittings so I can use them on the hose. Im gonna paint the clamps black. The hose is on backorder from Summit. As soon as its done Ill post some pics. This catch can got really expensive really quick.

That hose is identical to what I'm using, so I guess we're both screwed. :shigrin

 

[Wheelman4001]

I went with the UPR kit. Got some 10AN fittings with 5/8" Aeroquip hose. I trap about 3-4 oz. every 1500 mi. with this set-up.

 

[stlwagon]

Aeroquip hose is the best for these applications.

 

[Bob05GT]

I have a UPR catch can and while it was really expensive I like it because I am switching over to UPR polished pieces under the hood and it matches them. The UPR kit comes with the wrong size fittings and hoses (They want you to se it on the passenger side which is wrong) so I had to order new fittings and new hose as the cheap auto part store 5/8 inch hose I bought seems to be almost collapsing at idle. Im just waiting until the new hose comes(Its on back order). I have some pics up when its installed.

Where did you order your UPR catch can from? - this is also on my list of things to do.

 

[jaja6009]

Stlwagon or anyone else what type of hose should I use. I canceled the Superstock hose. I need the hose to be pushon as I have 5/8 barb end on the fitting on the can. Is this Earls hose OK or not.
Pro-Lite 350 hose is constructed in the U.S.A. of a tough, abrasion-resistant Nylon sheathing, banded to the textile inner braid embedded in the synthetic rubber liner. This gives the hose incredible flexibility, while maintaining the ability to withstand high vacuum and hot oil temperatures. It can withstand a maximum pressure rating of 350 psi, and an operating temperature range of -40 to +300 degrees F. The Pro Lite 350 hose can take the most demanding conditions and still deliver you to the winner's circle.

The above hose holds 27hg vacuum.

If not this hose can you give me an Aeroquip part number for the correct push on hose.

Thanks

 

[sqidd]

Where did you order your UPR catch can from? - this is also on my list of things to do.

Um, er.......U.....P.....R

 

[sonny1213]

I like my simple little Steeda model.:so

 

[jaja6009]

Ok I cancelled the Earls Performance hose and ordered some Aeroquip Socketless black hose with a 28" HG rating. ANy comments on whether this is good or not? I dont want to do Stainless braided hose as it will really not match anything under the hood.

 

[stlwagon]

Ok I cancelled the Earls Performance hose and ordered some Aeroquip Socketless black hose with a 28" HG rating. ANy comments on whether this is good or not? I dont want to do Stainless braided hose as it will really not match anything under the hood.

Good hose... It'll last forever.

 

[Preston951]

Good hose... It'll last forever.

I'll have to do that at some point... Thanks!

 

[hotshot]

i ordered some stainless steel braided hydraulic hose from Jeggs a while back. I currently have the oil separator sitting in my garage cause i kept throwing code P0171 with it on. Anyone have advice on how to connect it better so i don't form any vacum leaks like it is currently doing?