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Discussion Starter #1
This site is great! Learned a lot so far but had a few questions I could not find answers too. My motor application will be used for racing, no daily driving or emissions needed. Racing rules requires a carbuerator (aspirated class).

The engine is a 88 HO motor. How should I vent the motor/crankcase? Do I need to vent the fumes back into the valve cover, manifold, or ? Do I need to use a PCV on my application?

I don't mind drilling holes in my current valve cover/manifold(Eldebrock RPM) or making baffels to keep oil from collecting. I just don't want to hurt the motor and looking for most performance gains.

Thanks!
 

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usally the intake has a vent on it for a pcv valve to go in, if not, on your valve covers on one side get a filter for it, it will do what you want. it goes where the oil cap is on them, if you dont have a hole on each valve cover, replace the oil cap with one, heres a link Spectre Performance PCV Valve Breathers - SummitRacing.com that one will alow you to run a vacum hose to the carberator. K&N 62-1490 - K&N Crankcase Vent Filters - Overview - SummitRacing.com and thats a different style so you dont have the vacum line
 

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Discussion Starter #3
usally the intake has a vent on it for a pcv valve to go in, if not, on your valve covers on one side get a filter for it, it will do what you want. it goes where the oil cap is on them, if you dont have a hole on each valve cover, replace the oil cap with one, heres a link Spectre Performance PCV Valve Breathers - SummitRacing.com that one will alow you to run a vacum hose to the carberator. K&N 62-1490 - K&N Crankcase Vent Filters - Overview - SummitRacing.com and thats a different style so you dont have the vacum line
I don't think I want to just slap a filter on the end of a vent line....too much hydrocarbons realeasing into my small garage when tuning the motor! :heha: I guess I need vents on both valve covers and will just drill and tap a hole for the stock PCV valvle that came with this EFI motor. I 'assume' PCV's are the same for FI vs. CARB motors.... (?)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
usally the intake has a vent on it for a pcv valve to go in, if not, on your valve covers on one side get a filter for it, it will do what you want. it goes where the oil cap is on them, if you dont have a hole on each valve cover, replace the oil cap with one, heres a link Spectre Performance PCV Valve Breathers - SummitRacing.com that one will alow you to run a vacum hose to the carberator. K&N 62-1490 - K&N Crankcase Vent Filters - Overview - SummitRacing.com and thats a different style so you dont have the vacum line

I don't want to use a filter on the engine vent hose since it will release toxic hydrocarbons into my small garage when tuning the motor. I think I will vent both valve covers to the carb. I assume the PCV valve on the EFI intake manifold can also be used on a carburated engine....or are there different PCV valves for different applications?
 

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from what i could find you can use a normal pvc valve, you just need to make sure you use the correct place to plug the hose into on the carb.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the advice guys. I ended up using a hole saw and drilling out a 1.25" hole in the top of the valve cover for the PCV valvle and rubber grommet. Ported it to my Holley Truck Avenger carb and vented the oil cap vent to the carb as well (two seperate ports). Works great! Motor runs smooth. The Holley TA has plenty of adjustments to fine tune the carb for all types of use (mine is being used in a mid-80's Bronco for desert racing/pre-running).

Just an FYI: I originally had to ditch the EFI distrubutor and went with a Duraspark II and module to run the carbureted engine. The Duraspark II dizzy and module were purchased new from Autozone. JUNK! The distributor was probably a remanufactured part. It was loud, wobbly, and kept grinding on the top of the cap! The module was wired correctly and it kept heating up my coil for some reason, even with resister wired in-line. After a week or so of fussing with the cheapo parts, I went with an MSD 'ready to run'. Came with a steel gear and the shaft length was perfect for my 88 302 HO motor oil drive-shaft (shorter than the earlier 302's). The MSD brought the HO motor and Trick Flow Roller Cam to life! (From what I was told by Ford experts, don't use a bronze or cast iron gear on the dizzy as it will eat up the cam gear).

Now I've gotta find how to wire up my alternator to run without the CPU. I have the 6-wire EFI alternator. Anybody have any diagram links? :D
 
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