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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This has been happening intermittently since last year.
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I'm pretty sure those lights are all controlled by the same dimmer switch on the dash, which tells me they are all on the same circuit/fuse

so I guess it must be a flaky connection inside the radio, or in the wires to the radio

just a guess to get the thread moving
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm pretty sure those lights are all controlled by the same dimmer switch on the dash, which tells me they are all on the same circuit/fuse

so I guess it must be a flaky connection inside the radio, or in the wires to the radio

just a guess to get the thread moving
Thank you.... I was kind of thinking that it could be a loose wire
 
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I would guess a bad connection on an eternal plug-in connector or something internally on the radio. You could remove the radio and inspect the condition of the plugs to rule that out. The factory basic radio kind of sucks but there's not a good selection of aftermarket ones yet due to the chip shortage. Normally, if the radio is the problem I'd recommend just replacing it with a Kenwood, Pioneer, Sony, etc but that's not really an option right now. Ebay for a used factory one perhaps. Make sure it is Sync compatible if that makes a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I would guess a bad connection on an eternal plug-in connector or something internally on the radio. You could remove the radio and inspect the condition of the plugs to rule that out. The factory basic radio kind of sucks but there's not a good selection of aftermarket ones yet due to the chip shortage. Normally, if the radio is the problem I'd recommend just replacing it with a Kenwood, Pioneer, Sony, etc but that's not really an option right now. Ebay for a used factory one perhaps. Make sure it is Sync compatible if that makes a difference.
I have been looking on eBay and such today and the dash kit for an aftermarket radio is insane..... lowest I seen one was 200.00 and that did not include the harness adapter to keep the steering wheel controls and the Sync option. I priced out the install kit at around 600.00 total for all the parts needed, and that does not include a new radio.
 

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As others have suggested, I would pull the radio and inspect the wiring. If the radio is defective, you are already aware that you are facing an expensive proposition to replace it. I would try some of the local auto recycling yards. Call them and they may be able to locate one for you. I'm sure that we all feel your pain, and hope you find a solution soon.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
As others have suggested, I would pull the radio and inspect the wiring. If the radio is defective, you are already aware that you are facing an expensive proposition to replace it. I would try some of the local auto recycling yards. Call them and they may be able to locate one for you. I'm sure that we all feel your pain, and hope you find a solution soon.
I have a friend who is an electrician that is supposed to be replacing my busted fog lights..... I’m going to see if I can get him to pull the radio out then and have a look at it.
 

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I started having the same problem a few years ago where the backlight to those buttons flicker intermittently. Its difficult to diagnose because the backlighting on the gauges, steering wheel, door lock buttons, and window switches are all unaffected. Those are tied into fuse 10 in the smart junction box and you would think the FCIM front control interface module (radio and hvac buttons) would be connected to it as well. But its not. Based off the wiring diagram, a power wire to fuse 14 in the SJB, a ground, and two canbus wires come out of the FCIM. The fuses checked out good in my case and so did the ground. What I also found was that the radio info display screen (FDIM) also shares the same power and canbus wires as the FCIM except for the ground. Yet, the radio info screen shows no symptoms of flickering or failing of any kind. So I continued to follow the can bus wires in the diagram and they led me back to the SJB. The top most connector on the left side of the smart junction box to be exact. I inspected, cleaned and applied di-electric grease on all the connectors underneath the passenger side dash, on and near the SJB. No change whatsoever. So in conclusion, I figure it could be one of two things. The FCIM itself, or the smart junction box as it seems this is where the backlighting signal is converted to canbus. It hasn't gotten any worse or spread to other parts of the car in the past 3 years so it doesn't worry me enough to get it diagnosed professionally or to throw parts at it. If it were up to me, I'd turn off all the button backlighting in the car. It clashes horribly with the mycolor gauges and ambient lighting. Sorry I couldn't give you a more definitive answer though. I would start with checking the connection behind the radio itself as others have said. Also all the connections and fuses in the smart junction box. The ground is under the dash on the driver side. More or less above where your right leg rests. Hopefully you have better luck than I do. If you or your Electrician friend needs the wiring diagrams, they're online at iihs dot net. Good luck and please report back with your findings
 

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I started having the same problem a few years ago where the backlight to those buttons flicker intermittently
Which buttons are you talking about exactly? The radio buttons like LadyGT's?
If it's just the radio button lights and the circuit feeding the radio illumination is shared by other things then the most logical explanation is the radio itself or else other things would usually be affected too. Probably a bad solder joint or loose connection in the radio itself somewhere or the connection on the back of the radio if your lucky.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The only thing affected on mine was the radio..... the lights on my steering buttons, dash, and the top of the radio were not affected, although my volume on the radio itself went crazy and the last line on the volume marker was flickering.
It did happen when my headlights weren't on as well and my A/C controls would not work either.

I started having the same problem a few years ago where the backlight to those buttons flicker intermittently. Its difficult to diagnose because the backlighting on the gauges, steering wheel, door lock buttons, and window switches are all unaffected. Those are tied into fuse 10 in the smart junction box and you would think the FCIM front control interface module (radio and hvac buttons) would be connected to it as well. But its not. Based off the wiring diagram, a power wire to fuse 14 in the SJB, a ground, and two canbus wires come out of the FCIM. The fuses checked out good in my case and so did the ground. What I also found was that the radio info display screen (FDIM) also shares the same power and canbus wires as the FCIM except for the ground. Yet, the radio info screen shows no symptoms of flickering or failing of any kind. So I continued to follow the can bus wires in the diagram and they led me back to the SJB. The top most connector on the left side of the smart junction box to be exact. I inspected, cleaned and applied di-electric grease on all the connectors underneath the passenger side dash, on and near the SJB. No change whatsoever. So in conclusion, I figure it could be one of two things. The FCIM itself, or the smart junction box as it seems this is where the backlighting signal is converted to canbus. It hasn't gotten any worse or spread to other parts of the car in the past 3 years so it doesn't worry me enough to get it diagnosed professionally or to throw parts at it. If it were up to me, I'd turn off all the button backlighting in the car. It clashes horribly with the mycolor gauges and ambient lighting. Sorry I couldn't give you a more definitive answer though. I would start with checking the connection behind the radio itself as others have said. Also all the connections and fuses in the smart junction box. The ground is under the dash on the driver side. More or less above where your right leg rests. Hopefully you have better luck than I do. If you or your Electrician friend needs the wiring diagrams, they're online at iihs dot net. Good luck and please report back with your findings
I don't have the mycolor in my car.... I wish I could turn off the back lighting and still have the buttons function.
 

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The only thing affected on mine was the radio..... the lights on my steering buttons, dash, and the top of the radio were not affected, although my volume on the radio itself went crazy and the last line on the volume marker was flickering.
It did happen when my headlights weren't on as well and my A/C controls would not work either.
You know, I was experiencing erratic volume as well. It went away after cleaning the connectors on the SJB. I didn't think much of it at the time as the radio/ac control backlight still flickered. But although I still experience the flickering, I have never had complete power loss to that panel. Everything works as it should, even when the backlighting is acting up. Your car's symptoms are classic of a loose or corroded connector. It most likely could be the FCIM panel itself is faulty. I would start with checking fuse 14 to see if its not a little toasty. And while you're down there, disconnect the top left connector and give it a good spray down with electrical cleaner and make sure it seats properly. If that doesn't help, then I would look into finding another Radio/AC control panel at a local junkyard. Just make sure its from a car with SYNC as well to avoid potential issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I am wondering if this would work?
I don’t have the shaker system in my car but do have an aftermarket amp and sub in my trunk..... it says it’s from a 2012 mustang.
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Be careful if you go under the dash looking for loose wire....
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I am wondering if this would work?
I don’t have the shaker system in my car but do have an aftermarket amp and sub in my trunk..... it says it’s from a 2012 mustang.
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I'm not sure if the wiring for the control plate is different or not but the face looks just like the standard radio with the exception of the Shaker script. I'm sure Ebay is littered with non-Shaker control plates though so you shouldn't need to gamble with that one.
 
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