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Discussion Starter #1
So, just got a code reader to make my life a little easier and here's what it pulls. 111, 10, and 172. I've been On the one code read website to see if I could figure them out, and no such luck. My biggest concern is 10 (cylinder one not in balance) and 172 (Oxygen sensor not switching – system is or was lean – Single, Right or Rear HO2S – Fuel control).

Can someone explain why I may be getting these codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've checked it four or five times. It keeps reading "111r, 10, 172"
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hmm something's wrong are you doing the goose check properly?
....goose check? I'm plugging it in where it's telling me to. I'm using the Innova code reader.
 

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Goose check = snap throttle test.

Try clearing the ECU by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes. Then re-connect the battery and re-test.

Are you experiencing any drivability issues or rough idle?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No, for the most part it drives just fine. I have the air bag light flashing and after driving for a little while the CEL comes on. When it does, it doesn't really drive any different then normal. I left the battery unconnected for an hour, then took it out for a spin, up the street and then back and it came back on. I ran the test immediately and got 111, 10 and 172. I know 172 is an 02 sensor so I'm not worried about that, but this code 10 is strange. I found one site that had codes for 89-91 and 10 meant something with the airbag was bad. In the book I have though it says cylinder one out of balance. Whatever that means.
 

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Your code 10 is likely a separator pulse which sometimes shows up on code readers. If you just count flashes the old way, you would not see this normally. Air Bag sensors are a likely cause for the airbag light and the O2 sensor out of range could be anything, not necessarily the O2 sensor itself. I’d pull the plugs and see what color they are, before you start throwing other parts at your car.

Cylinder balance refers to the dynamic pressure difference between the cylinders, which can be checked with a compression guage.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What about vacuum leaks? it drives fine until the CEL kicks on, then the throttle response sucks and it gets a rough idle.
 

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10= separation (SEPT 10)next test mode. peace tom


:handshake
 

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What about vacuum leaks? it drives fine until the CEL kicks on, then the throttle response sucks and it gets a rough idle.
M00n3at3r, what year is your Mustang?
 

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it drives fine until the CEL kicks on, then the throttle response sucks and it gets a rough idle.
It wouldn't hurt to do a fuel pressure check and replace the filter. The stock pumps on 4 cylinder Mustangs are a little weak to begin with, so if you do find that you need a new one, I'd recommend using A 5.0L V-8 pump, which will drop right in.

Dual plug Mustangs in general are susceptible to a variety of ignition problems, which may or may not trip codes. Crank sensors and DIS modules can cause erratic behavior, but the symptoms your describing sound more like a low fuel pressure/volume issue.
 

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Like I said earlier sounds like something I was dealing with lol (needed a new fuel filter 12$ it was a cheap fix for now...)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Which separator Tom? I replaced the fuel pump and filter when cleaned out the gas tank, I did replace the pump with a 2.3 pump though. Where are common area for vacuum leaks with ours? I haven't done a thorough check yet but it's been so freaking cold I don't really wanna right now!! I might break a finger off lol that would make for a good story.
 

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He's talking about the 10 on the code reader its there to seoerate the codes for you. Vacuum leaks can appear any where start at your vacuum tree and follow it. Also not the filter on the pump the fuel filter is under the car near the axel on the fuel line, is that the one you changed?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Oh, haha, oops. And I changed both. The car had sat for 9ish years with gas in it so I replaced the filter mesh, the pump, and the in line filter. The only thing fuel related that I didn't replace was the injectors and the fuel sender unit. Both seem to be working fine. Plus, I ran a can of bg44k through the system and it sat for a couple days with it in everything.

I'll see what I can find as far as vacuum leaks. On a warmish day. Since I have the O2 sensor is it worth replacing just to be on the safe side?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Update: replaced the o2 sensor and it fixed the problem. She runs great! I'm actually quite surprised at how well 100hp gets you.
 
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