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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 66 mustang and have rebuilt the motor myself. I have it up and running and was trying to adjust the valves. I have a compcam mag.280 with new H. F.T. lifters and roller rocker tips, matching springs. I had a guy look at it and he said the cam was bad?? I saw what he pointed at but was unsure of whats happening. The motor runs strong and all I could see was the rocker arm on the I, or E for # 7 was not moving up and down as strong as the others. I'm sure thats a problem. But what I could not understand was the way he tried to adjust the valves. I need help on how to know when I am at TDC for #1 so I can adjust the valves per the chart in my book. I get confused on if it is 1/2 way open or all closed. Please bear with my lack of tech. lingo. I'm trying to learn and just not sure I need to take the engine down and put a new camshaft and lifters in yet. Please offer advise... Thanks
 

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If you had the valves adjusted wrong then you could of had a lifter go flat. The way I adjust valves is to start at number 1 cylinder and bring it to top dead center. You can go in any order but you have to make sure both valves are closed on that cylinder. Run the rocker nut down until its sung and go a 1/4 turn tighter. then lock the jam screw down. It should get you pretty close. (within a couple of thousandths.) If you want to use feeler gages then you need to find out what the valve lash should be set at. It's usually around .015 to .018. Depends on how you want to set it up. The tighter the valves the sooner they will open. So to use the feeler gages you would do the same thing as above but when you tighten the rocker down you should just barely be able to get that size feeler gage under the rocker tip, and should not be able to get the next size up under the tip. When you put the lifters in did you soak them in oil for awhile before you put them in?
 

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The easiest way to find tdc is to take the cap off of the distributor and roll the motor over untill the rotor points at the #1 cylinder. The take the plug out and see if the piston is all the way up at the top of the cylinder. You may have to get a breaker bar and a socket and turn the motor by hand until the piston is as far up as it wil go before it starts to return.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I pumped the lifhters up with a hand oiler but did not soak them. Squirted until plenty of oil run out of each one. I would guess I adjusted the valves wrong prior to start up. I know I had a problem with TDC on my H.balancer. But I wouldn't think that would flatten a lifter if the they were anything, they were loose. For not being tuned up the more runs great. I could just hear the slight rattling of the rocker arms as i gave it more gas. But I saw the one rockerarm not moving like the rest. Is this a need for new cam and lifters or just lifters? Just don't know and want to do It right but still learning. I'm was getting ready to start painting and now a set back...Dang...
 

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cam and lifters, together. cam and lifter break-in is very complicated. follow comp cams instructions to the letter! especially the break-in additive.
 

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Did you buy the can new? I helped a friend install a cam back in high school. Turns out it was a hydraulic cam and we were using solid lifters. It wore one or two lobs off in about 15 miles. I know you are not using solid lifters. But the previous owner may have and ruined the cam before you got it. Just a thought. I agree with cindy, follow the destructions to the letter.
 

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If you pull the intake manifold, check the lifter you are concerned about. If you have destroyed the cam, the lifters are usally worn on the bottom. Compcam has a method of adjusting the valve lash by using the other valve position. I don't have these instructions anymore but I'm sure if you go on-line you should be able to find them.
 
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