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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm getting ready to remove my front suspension K-member on my 2002 GT. Is where I have the chains attached OK (the chain closest to the passenger-side is NOT attached to a water pump bolt; it's attached to a timing cover bolt)? I've never used an engine lift/support, before.

FYI - the chains aren't going to be supporting the entire weight of the engine by themselves. The engine is still bolted to the transmission, and I'll have a floor jack supporting the bellhousing, too.

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When I had a 82 Zephyr (Fox suspension) with a 460/C-6 and changed the front crossmember, actually removed it several times, just put jack stands on the front most frame just behind the wheel wells and then wooden blocks on the engine oilpan. It'll support the weight on a SBF. Works on the weight of a BBF.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Drivers side looks OK but i would move the pass side out more to even things out
Thanks; maybe I'll do that when I'm home, next (tractor-trailer driver).

When I had a 82 Zephyr (Fox suspension) with a 460/C-6 and changed the front crossmember, actually removed it several times, just put jack stands on the front most frame just behind the wheel wells and then wooden blocks on the engine oilpan. It'll support the weight on a SBF. Works on the weight of a BBF.
Thanks, but that wouldn't work for me. The reason I'm removing the K-member in the first place is to replace it with a BMR K-member I bought, last year. But, while my K-member is off, I'm replacing my oil pan. I have to remove it to install a new oil pickup tube (required for the billet geared MMR "Hurricane" oil pump I already installed), and I think the pan gasket was leaking a bit, anyway. I bought an MMR windage tray, which has the gasket already molded into it, and I didn't want to reinstall my old, dirty oil pan, so I bought a new one from Ford. I'm also, while the K-member is off, going to be installing BBK shorty headers (the ceramic coated ones), along with a Magnaflow direct-fit catalytic converter/H-pipe assembly I bought about 3 years ago. I figure it should be much easier to install those exhaust parts with the K-member off, than it would be if it were on.

I only wish I hadn't struggled so hard to install my new starter motor & motor mounts about two years ago (shortly after I put it up on jack stands in my garage), but at the time, I wasn't planning on replacing all the parts I'm now replacing!

This is the K-member I'm installing:

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Ok, looking at this again since you said you're going to pull the pan. That means you're going to be under the engine and all that weight. You need a safety setup. Go down and get a good 4X4 8' and put it across the fenders with rags protecting the paint finish and get some real chains and grade 8 bolts and get a safety chain setup. Those hooks on that Precision Engine support bar are weak looking. To weak for my old butt to be under them and trust them.
The bolts you have into the engine are questionable and look weak also. An Ace hardware Chinese grade 8 bolt = about a grade 2 American. The first time I did mine was a complete K-Member change out to a tubar one, A-arms and everything.
Being in the Navy for over 20 years and shipyards I've seen a lot of heavy machinary and other stuff moved around and replaced/worked on in tight places. Seen a few drop down to and make a mess. Ships in a dry dock set on 6'X6' wooden blocks. That's all millions of pounds of steel set on safely.
BE SAFE.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, looking at this again since you said you're going to pull the pan. That means you're going to be under the engine and all that weight. You need a safety setup. Go down and get a good 4X4 8' and put it across the fenders with rags protecting the paint finish and get some real chains and grade 8 bolts and get a safety chain setup. Those hooks on that Precision Engine support bar are weak looking. To weak for my old butt to be under them and trust them.
The bolts you have into the engine are questionable and look weak also. An Ace hardware Chinese grade 8 bolt = about a grade 2 American. The first time I did mine was a complete K-Member change out to a tubar one, A-arms and everything.
Being in the Navy for over 20 years and shipyards I've seen a lot of heavy machinary and other stuff moved around and replaced/worked on in tight places. Seen a few drop down to and make a mess. Ships in a dry dock set on 6'X6' wooden blocks. That's all millions of pounds of steel set on safely.
BE SAFE.
I just purchased this, from Late Model Restoration. I'm going to use it as an additional support method, either with something like a 4x4 piece of wood on top of the fenders, or maybe I'll even buy another engine support bar from Harbor Freight, like I'm already using (they're supposedly rated for 1,000 pounds), and use two additional, heavier-duty chains, in addition to the ones the support bar comes with. I don't mind spending the extra money; it's a hell of a lot cheaper than the medical bills (or, even losing my life!) when my engine falls on top of me!

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