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Discussion Starter #1
1990 mustang 5.0 i need new engine im not sure which one to get one i can build up later and has lots of power but isnt to rediculous and wasting gas

this is wut i have installed

3.73 gears
cold air intake
systemmax intake
throttle body
electric fan
msd ignition
shorty headers
flowmaster 40s

any suggestions???
 

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331 or 347 stroker
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hey

so my buddy installed holley systemax intake and throttle body
and he said its all stuff ill use with my new engine but now i think hes got me to do that 1900$ and installed and im buying engine that intake wont be needed for my new engine so i think hes got me to waste my money
 

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10k on an engine.... you can build one hell of an engine on that. Is this engine only or for the whole car?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
my buddy says to me just now 306-331 stroker is better for daily driver and 347 uses up oil every week and ill have to top it up
but i also think he might b a lil jealous im buying new engine and doesnt want me as fast or faster then him n he says i wont be wantin to drive it everyday
 

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331 vs 347 doesn't matter. They are both good builds and if he is burning that much oil something is wrong.

What you need to decide first is how much horsepower do you want in the end? Turbo or N/A?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ok well i think he just doesnt want me to have more horsepower or a faster car then him in the end..
he acts a little jealous cause i am about to buy wut he wants to buy
but he has no money for....
he has a nice engine and car and its fast but he has no money to do anything else to it...
so i have this feeling he is trying to steer me away from a better motor...
i want alot of horsepower and eventually supercharge i just want one i can build on and not feel like an idiot later because i got a smaller engine right i just wanna make sure i am doing the right thing
cause i have 10,000 and i want a car thats mean n fast
 

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Well you must understand that a monster of an engine means you need supporting modifications. Your stock T-5 transmission is not going to hold up past 300 ft-lb's of torque. Also, without proper suspension mods you won't be able to put whatever power you have to the ground. It'll just eat your tires up.

You need to be very specific of your goals with us so that we can tell you if it is feasible in your budget. Or, you can give us your goal and we can tell you where to start so that after the 10k is gone you know what to save for to continue with the build.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ok yea i know im gonna need upgraded trans as well, and i guess i am gonna need new suspension but wut engine can i go with for now with my trans and suspension i can put upgraded trans in later and better suspension and stilll build on after
 

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Well, what you could do now is purchase the transmission and suspension first. I suggest doing this first is because it is a waste to drop in a monster engine or upgrade an engine that you're just going to re-do later.

For your suspension look at UPR and Strange Engineering products. Strange adjustable shocks/struts, coilover kits for alterable ride height, new springs, upper and lower control arms.

At this point you need to decide whether you need to stay with 4-lug or 5-lug. I saw on your list you have 3.73 gears. 26 or 31 spline? If 31 spline then thats good. If you decide to change axles Moser makes good ones but your rear end could probably use some freshening up. A better differential with 31 spline axles. If you're sticking with 8.8" rear end have the axle tubes welded(if you're going to venture high into the horsepower range) while all this is being installed. For differential that kind of depends on how you're going to use your car. If strictly street than a good limited slip will suffice. If strictly track then a full locker is probably what you want. The best of both worlds, but more expensive, is something like the auburn ected differential that can be changed from limited slip to full locker with the flip of a switch. Keep in mind while doing your rear end you'll want to consider an SN95 brake conversion. Your stock brakes won't handle monster power. Swapping to all disc brakes will make the vehicle safer. Without better brakes a monster engine is a death trap.

Once the suspension is done and the rear end is up to par you'll be looking at a transmission. You can get an upgraded T-5 that can handle 4-500 ft-lbs of torque out there for a couple thousand. If you're goal is more torque than even that you might consider a TKO swap. There are multiple transmission builders out there, just use google.

I'm not sure what the rating is on our stock drive shaft is. Might want to look it up and consider replacing if it doesn't fit where you want to end up.

THEN, once you're set up for monster power, you can devote your time on your engine.

DART, DSS, and other block manufacturers make aftermarket blocks that hold more power. They range anywhere from 1300$ for a bare block to a fully prepped rotating assembly to include forged crank, rods, and pistons at 6000$+. Once you decide on what displacement you're going to run select your block manufacturer and block and put that puppy on order. Whether or not you buy a rotating assembly or not is your choice just make sure what is used are quality parts. Forged if you're looking to make big power.

On to heads. For big power you're going to need big flow. AFR and TFS make 205+CC heads that will provide you the flow you need for big power ranging from 1400$-2400$ a pair. Again, quality talks here.

Then to your intake. Big flowing heads you need big flowing intake. Several choices: Edelbrock Super Victor(I believe sometimes called a Spyder intake?), TFS R-series, RFS Box-R-series, tubular GT40, and Holly Systemax II. From a few things I've read the Super Victor performed REALLY well. To get an idea on price the upper and lower Box-R-Series from TFS is 700$.

Get a set of long tubes for it and a supporting exhaust. Add in the cost of ARP fasteners to hold it all together: don't skimp on fasteners! If you're looking for monster HP you need good hardware.

Then you have the cam. Don't go off the shelf, get a custom grind for your application.

Lastly are turbo or superchargers. To get an idea of cost you can get a used turbo or supercharger setup for less than 1000$. Or, a full twin-turbo(76MM) setup with all the piping from HP performance can be 6000$+.

As you can see with all these choices you -really- need to be specific on your horsepower level. 500hp? 600hp? more? We can't really suggest a specific build without knowing what you're shooting for. Another thing is your experience in engine building. Can you do the wrench time yourself or will you have shop bills? This can add a lot of cost onto your build if you have to have a shop do this for you. So again, I ask, what are you shooting for?
 

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If all of that is too confusing for you there are multiple choices of crate engines on summitracing.com

415 HP 347 crate for 7600$.

That'll overpower your tranny so with the last 2k then you'll need to upgrade it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
yea well iv decided to do suspension and order transmission
and then order the crate engine and go from there.. and get a shop to install
 

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you can build one hell of a motor with $10k. start with tranny and suspension first. no sense in adding power when other components cant handle it. look at maximum motorsports and upr...

i see you havnt added subframe connectors yet. these are a MUST and should be your first suspension mod....

we will need more info on your plan for the car to help you farther. what are you looking to use it for? what are your goals?
 

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get a new 5.0 coyote modular motor thats in the new mustangs. 412 hp for 6100. of course youll need to buy a k member, all the comp wiring and stuff like that. You'll end up spending about 10k or 11k, but you have a DANG good motor thats quick and high revving and you'll get great gas milage. I wish i had the money to do it to my car. Thats the first thing id do if i fell into 10K

If you shop at latemodel resto, or 50resto, then check this out

2011-2012 Mustang 5.0L Coyote Engine Swap Parts at LRS - Same Day Shipping!

its a section just for doing the coyote swaps.
 

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get a new 5.0 coyote modular motor thats in the new mustangs. 412 hp for 6100. of course youll need to buy a k member, all the comp wiring and stuff like that. You'll end up spending about 10k or 11k, but you have a DANG good motor thats quick and high revving and you'll get great gas milage. I wish i had the money to do it to my car. Thats the first thing id do if i fell into 10K

If you shop at latemodel resto, or 50resto, then check this out

2011-2012 Mustang 5.0L Coyote Engine Swap Parts at LRS - Same Day Shipping!

its a section just for doing the coyote swaps.
OR he could spend less money and build a pushrod 5.0 with the same amount of power that will be 10x easier to install...

if you go with the coyote, your looking at $6000 alone for the engine. now you still need a new tranny, suspension mods (including the kmember needed for the swap), and all of the wiring. your looking at more like $15k-$20k in parts once the swaps done, and i can garentee he doesnt have the knowledge to pull it off...

sure, the new coyote 5.0 is a cool thought, but you obviously have absolutely NO idea what kind of work is involved to do the swap and how impractical it actually is....
 

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OR he could spend less money and build a pushrod 5.0 with the same amount of power that will be 10x easier to install...

if you go with the coyote, your looking at $6000 alone for the engine. now you still need a new tranny, suspension mods (including the kmember needed for the swap), and all of the wiring. your looking at more like $15k-$20k in parts once the swaps done, and i can garentee he doesnt have the knowledge to pull it off...

sure, the new coyote 5.0 is a cool thought, but you obviously have absolutely NO idea what kind of work is involved to do the swap and how impractical it actually is....
I agree that a lot of knowledge is needed to pull it off, but if you have the knowledge, I don't think it's that impractical.
 
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