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Essential Fox Mustang Mods

151029 Views 93 Replies 75 Participants Last post by  ccoppola
So you just bought your 5.0 and love it. Its fast and it was cheap, and now they are starting to stand out more and more the older they get. Everyone is so obsessed with engine mods though so often times more important stuff is overlooked till later, or till your car starts over heating and breaking from the added power and headlights dimming after under drive pulleys, or the first time you try to stop quickly and it doesn't happen. Then you put in amps and a stereo, because you cant cruise properly in the 5.0 without music right? Of course not! Till your alternator dies, and the car doesn't run.
These are the suggested mods assuming the regular tuneup and maintenance is already performed and the vehicle is already in good running order (almost necessary given the age of all Foxes) before the engine is dipped into.

Brakes- get rid of the rear drums, and get better front calipers (five lug conversion) you may need wheels depending on which front brakes you go with or if you go with five lug. Here is a site that explains all you need to know. 87-93 Mustang 5.0 Brake upgrade pages. Improve your 60-0 times! or Mustangmotorsport - Mustangs and a whole lot more! good prices on brake stuff
Ford Racing Parts and Accessories at great prices lots of stuff can be found in local classifieds (my favorite) or ebay

Alternator
- get rid of the stock one and go for a 3G 130 or more amp unit. Ford Fuel Injection » Installing a 3G alternator you will need the pulley from a 94 mustang GT. If you already have underdrive pulleys, you can no longer use the alternator pulley on the 3G.
PA Performance - You Only Buy Quality Once ! 1.877.471.8010

Chassis
- Subframe connectors, weld them in! and good set of shocks and struts will completely transform the ride of your car. new Front and rear lower control arms Ford racing offers these parts new for less than you will spend getting new bushings and ball joints. New rear lower control arms will help to eliminate any wheel hop you may be experiencing, and the fronts will help with potential alignment problems. A new rack and pinion if you have high mileage, and if the tie rod ends are loose. Maximum Motorsports :: The Leader In Mustang Performance Suspension these guys only sell good products. or Ford Racing Parts and Accessories at great prices
Clutch/transmission- Steel front bearing retainer (where throwout bearing rides) on T5s, the stock aluminum one by this time is likely all chewed up and makes for a rough engagement with clutch application. A New Ford clutch cable with quadrant and firewall adjuster will further make for the smoothest clutch operation you have ever felt. The Factory quadrant is ok for factory applications, but if you have any power and you install a heavy pressure plate, then thats when the aluminum quadrant becomes a necessity. Got an automatic? no problem, do a flush and install a shift kit. Despite what you may hear from uneducated people, the AOD is a good transmission, and is stronger than a T5 in most all applications.
Maximum Motorsports :: The Leader In Mustang Performance Suspension .:. Brothers Performance Warehouse .:.
Mustang Parts & Performance - American Muscle
the steel front bearing retainer is a 93 cobra piece, so if you go to the dealer, order one for that.

Performance mods- even before you go into the engine, there is still stuff you can do to improve performance, primarily differential gears, which personally i think is the best thing you can do to your car is torque multiplication mods. There are many ring and pinion choices, but for a street and sometimes track car, the choice is usually 3.55s, 3.73's, 3.90's, or 4.10s. The higher the number the lower the gear.(inversely proportional) also the higher the number, the lower your top speed is, the faster you accelerate, and the higher your cruise rpm will be in overdrive. My car has 3.73s with a T5 and its right at 3K rpm at 90 mph in overdrive.
with different gears comes the need to calibrate your speedo with proper driven or drive gears use this table to decide which gear to use. Speedometer Gear Selector
Automatics- if you have an automatic, you get the same effect as gears without the decreased top speed or higher cruise rpm, with a higher stall torque converter. If you go this route, a stacked plate type cooler is necessary especially if you eliminate the direct drive in your converter. Your stall speed should be determined by your gear ratio and engine combination (where the power band is at). other than that a shift kit will do you right. get one from Baumann. If you are mechanically inclined or do your own work, then there is the 4R70W gear swap into the AOD case, but that is expensive to buy and you need experience with automatics to perform this mod. Visit Click Click Racing or TCCoA Tech Articles for more auto trans tech.

feel free to add to this if you see something that i may have forgotten.:bigthumbsup
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READ AL KIRSCHENBAUM'S BOOK FROM COVER TO COVER AND MOST ALL OF YOUR QUESTIONS WILL BE ANSWERED.:happydance:
hey with doing those brakes from what I've checked out they say I can use a doner car but I have to take most all the brake system.something about the pressure is different from the master cylinder and from there you have to go to ford and get a wierd looking bolt that goes in the end of the proportioning block and then you install the front spindles with the shocks attached(thats what the ford tech. at my local dealer said) but he said there was a difference in the size of the ball joint so he said something about a thick washer on the topside of the ball joint before you put the nut on???then the rear was pretty much a simple swap.and I believe that the doner car could be any year after the fox body v6 or v8 . please somebody correct me if I'm wrong..
G
This is the greatest most informative and helpfull post ever thanks guys now i know where to get started:bigthumbsup
i need some heads and dont know what kind will perform best on my car, 1990 coupe with edelbrock intake mac headers and exhaust and vortech v-1 supercharger
if you just add 73mm caliper from a 85-86 svo and master cyl from a '95 you will notice a huge difference for around 100 bux!!!!!!!!!!
yeah i have an 89 and i just replaced the fan and fan clutch huge difference
86 GT 5.0 302 5 spd

yeah i have an 89 and i just replaced the fan and fan clutch huge difference

Okay so I purchased an 86 GT and she was dead so far I have replaced:

fluids, fan, fan clutch (did wonders BTW), starter, solenoid, alternator, fuel tank, fuel pump (still need a new relay).

Next is the exhaust and plugs / wires (I'm missing 2 pipes and one muffler but love the sound)

Then the suspension.

I have a few questions:

1. When I get into the suspension I know I need new brakes, control arms, bushings, and tie rods I would rather swap the stock suspension out now since I'm doing the work and go performance where do I go (in Colorado) and what is the best for my $$? which at this point not an issue.

2. After the suspension, exhaust, and probably cold air upgrade I will be moving into giving my new baby the clutch upgrades.

Then more horses so I need to know:

*Exactly how much HP can I put into my 4 eye before I will have to replace the Rear end?

*What recommendations do you guys have to get me the most HP with the best bolt on engine upgrades (I would like to do the bolt on's before I do the intake / exhaust) headers, pistons, rings, pulleys etc.

*I would like to go more Cubic inches for power rather than supercharger

more space = more power right? no forced.
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This Might Be A Stupid ? But What Did The G3 Come On?
nice nice post. there is a lot of truth to that. most people just go straight for a supercharger and dont realize what all they have to upgrade..thinking they can get away with what comes in the kit.. haha. but nice article..learned a few things too.. thanks man
1. When I get into the suspension I know I need new brakes, control arms, bushings, and tie rods I would rather swap the stock suspension out now since I'm doing the work and go performance where do I go (in Colorado) and what is the best for my $$? which at this point not an issue.

2. After the suspension, exhaust, and probably cold air upgrade I will be moving into giving my new baby the clutch upgrades.

Then more horses so I need to know:

*Exactly how much HP can I put into my 4 eye before I will have to replace the Rear end?

*What recommendations do you guys have to get me the most HP with the best bolt on engine upgrades (I would like to do the bolt on's before I do the intake / exhaust) headers, pistons, rings, pulleys etc.
I would probably buy an 8.8 now and fully build it up slowly with disc brakes and new bearings. That way you can just swap out the entire axle assembly and wont be pissed when you break it after you add some power.

for suspension, I used new Ford Racing lower control arms, new inner/outer tie rods (my rack was not leaking) a Ford rack and pinion boot kit, poly rack bushings, bullit springs and bilstien hd shocks and struts. The best bang for your buck would probably be the Bullit handling kit if you are looking for the best product for the least amount of money.
suspention

just bought 87GT and steering is very loose. dude said he replaced the rack about a yr ago and its been sitting for about 6 months. I'm thinking it may be the struts? what do you all think??? also i put this in another post, after ive been drivin around for a little and disengage gears to stop my RPMs pretty much double??? doesn't do it at first only after about 15min i guess of driving. any fixs w/ that also???
Really great post, lxarlo. I did just buy my first 5.0, a bone stock '88 LX notch. Of course I'm thinking about all the mods I can do. My plans are to put her up on jack stands this winter and work on brakes and suspension, so your post is timely and very helpful for me. Thanks. Two suspension questions for you folks. Is it worth it to swap out the stock K frame for a tubular one, and, if I'm not planning on any power adders, is it really necessary to convert from four bolt to five bolt hubs. The car came with a new set of four lug Cobra rims I like and want to keep using, and I've thought that the upgrade to five lug wheels was more for taming the twist of big power than handling increased stopping power.
I have a question about gears..... with my t-top how limited am I?
just bought 87GT and steering is very loose. dude said he replaced the rack about a yr ago and its been sitting for about 6 months. I'm thinking it may be the struts? what do you all think???
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check your steering rag joint under the hood, ball joints, and outer tie rod ends.
I have a question about gears..... with my t-top how limited am I?

i saw a 4 eye t-top on pinks the other night so with SFC's and a roll cage i guess they dont flex as much cause he was launching hard.
check your steering rag joint under the hood, ball joints, and outer tie rod ends.
thanks i'll check it out tomorrow!!!
would replacing the struts be a good idea also? currently stock(ish) i believe and dont think they were ever replaced
thanks i'll check it out tomorrow!!!
would replacing the struts be a good idea also? currently stock(ish) i believe and dont think they were ever replaced
If they have never been done, then it would be a good idea.
Thanks for making me feel good about my aod. :gringreen I actually thought it was a p.o.s.
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