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thanks for all the infor.
if i dont plan on making alot more hp should i just upgrade the brakes or should i swap them for disk i have a 89gt. also if i an looking to bore out the cylingers how much should i bore it out for it to be ok for an everyday driver and what do i need for it.
thanks for the help...
 

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Really great post, lxarlo. I did just buy my first 5.0, a bone stock '88 LX notch. Of course I'm thinking about all the mods I can do. My plans are to put her up on jack stands this winter and work on brakes and suspension, so your post is timely and very helpful for me. Thanks. Two suspension questions for you folks. Is it worth it to swap out the stock K frame for a tubular one, and, if I'm not planning on any power adders, is it really necessary to convert from four bolt to five bolt hubs. The car came with a new set of four lug Cobra rims I like and want to keep using, and I've thought that the upgrade to five lug wheels was more for taming the twist of big power than handling increased stopping power.
You can keep your 4 lug setup and upgrade your brake system. checkout www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com I got the front upgrade and rear disk conversion. what a difference it made!
 

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4 eye

I have a 79 and am looking at what other upgrades I need to make now that HP is no longer an issue. I am thinking the frame definatly needs done and was wondering what else would help the flex. I was told traction bars but read rear lower control arms. I would like more information on getting the power to the ground. I see a lot of smoke in the future unless things change. Struts, I have 100k on the stock ones, what struts work well? I am also looking at lowering the front end. I got rid of the cast iron intake, heads, exhaust, A/C. and now I am **** hunting. It rides stiff as ---- and floats about 85mph with the nose in the air. Brakes.....I cammed the snot out of the 347 and now the vaccum is an issue. Add a can or is there another fix?..........
:headscratch:
 
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I have a '91 with T5, and im planning to with 3.55 gear, as the chart shows in speedometer gear selecion, that I should have 8T, and for 3.55 with 8T, there's nothing showing for the drive gear teeth, does that mean, if I put 3.55 gear, I wont have to change my speedo gear?:headscratch:
Speedometer Recalibration Gears - '79-'98 Ford Mustang

392-STE-17271-D
Manual 8-Tooth 3.55 Ratio / White 23 Speedo Gear
 

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Do u need to get caliper brackets or do the calipers bolt on them self?
the spindles on fox mustangs have integrated caliper brackets cast into the spindle itself. The SVO calipers will bolt right on with no modifications to the spindle.

I have a '91 with T5, and im planning to with 3.55 gear, as the chart shows in speedometer gear selecion, that I should have 8T, and for 3.55 with 8T, there's nothing showing for the drive gear teeth, does that mean, if I put 3.55 gear, I wont have to change my speedo gear?:headscratch:
The blank space means that there are not ford parts available for that combination. On my 93 I changed out the drive gear to a 7 tooth so i could use the 21 tooth ford driven gear. If you are planning to do the gear swap by yourself, then you are more than capable to change the drive gear inside the transmission.
 

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The problem with young people is that they tend to go too big with everything and think that everything is supposed to run like it did but only faster and more horsepower! Usually a mess of unmatched bolt ons and poor performance which leads to discouragement.
Funny you should say that, I thought my car was going to run 13's this year with my 4:10 gears, despite the horrible worse than stock tires and my 20 yr old suspension. My car ran a 14.5, and supposably a stock mustang can run a 14.1 lol. Now this winter it's getting new shocks and struts, and the power steering and a/c are coming off. With a nice 275/60 15 out back and a little 165/80 15 out front I'm hoping to run a 13.5 or faster!!! Traction and weight lost is the greatest plan for the mustang! BTW the motor is completelly stock with 215 k's with a stock T-5 taking 5500- 6000 power shifts!! 5 runs in total within the first hour!
 

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I have a 1990 mustang gt. I bought a 8.8 94-95 rear i am building it up with 4.10 gears and 31 splines axels, this way i will have the five lug rear disk breaks. since i am putting 31 splines and its off a 94 what proplems will i have with a new drive shaft and stock transmission? And i want to get a stronger race type trans will it make any difference that my rear is from a 1994?
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
I have a 1990 mustang gt. I bought a 8.8 94-95 rear i am building it up with 4.10 gears and 31 splines axels, this way i will have the five lug rear disk breaks. since i am putting 31 splines and its off a 94 what proplems will i have with a new drive shaft and stock transmission? And i want to get a stronger race type trans will it make any difference that my rear is from a 1994?
no it will not make a difference.
 

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I just bought my 88 mustang gt and it's a 302 ho,edlebrock intake, 650 holley double pumper, longtube headers, flowmasters with dumps, electric fuel pump, t-5 trans, racing clutch, high performance oil pump, msd pro billet distributor, blaster 2 coil and the heater and computer components have been deleted. That's how it came so I added underive pulleys/ac delete kit, electric fans with relay thermoswitch, msd 6aL ignition, new starter and solenoid. Got dual fan from junkyard for $40 it was from a chrysler. lol Ignition and fans are both controled with a seperate switch. That ignition really smoothed things out for me. My mufflers need to be mounted better for more support I snapped both hangers. SOB hahaha
 

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Good thread, thanks for the advice.

Any ideas on which subframe connectors to get for a 91 GT convertible? Also, looking for a new set of shocks & struts, preferences? Going to be a daily driver for the most part and within a budget. Thx
 

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The problem with young people is that they tend to go too big with everything and think that everything is supposed to run like it did but only faster and more horsepower! Usually a mess of unmatched bolt ons and poor performance which leads to discouragement.

Some young person's discouragement, combined with lack of funds and a healthy dose of neglect, created the perfect combination to put thousands of fox-bodies and SN95's up for sale with some bolt on's and expensive speed parts already installed. I got mine with 2001 GT bullit style rims, worth almost 1000$, and Altezza euro tailights, but the car has a thousand CEL trouble codes and a clogged cat....some people's priorities are all jacked up!
 

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This is awesome. Most kids just go intake, and flowmasters and think they have the fastest car in the world. Then they get their butts handed to them by an K20 civic. Ahhh, the good old days!
shoot with the pretty much stock 2.3l i have right now a moped would hand my butt to me... but im brewin a monster for it right now :taz: i have a 347 stroker crank from crane, trw forged pistons, forged I beam rods, BMELTD wrist pins, afr 165cc heads, ported and polished edelbrock performer intake, venom fogger plate 250 shot, holley 850 cfm carb, stock roller hydrolic lifters, 1.6 magnum roller rockers from com cams, rebuilt AOD with shift kit, 3.73 rear end, i dont have exhaust for it yet im still building and i dont have a cam yet... any ideas? i love the agressive sound of the x303 but i heard that the alphabet cams are old and out dated... anybody know of anything that sounds just as agressive with better performance jus holler n we will c if she can bring tha nose off tha ground commin off tha line against them lil civics runnin around n spit em out tha exhaust :racer:
 
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