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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
I am new to the forum and I have checked as many posts as I can stand looking for something similar to help. I can not find anything that satisfies an answer to my problem so here we go.

I bought a 2008 Mustang GT about a month ago... This was great but I have started to find several issues that were well disguised at the time of purchase and have now surfaced to be my problem. I won't waste your time and go into a list of all the issues because I have corrected a majority of them. I have come across an issue now that is not so easy to solve and so I am hoping that someone here with more Stang experience can help me out. I would like to continue improving on this car so that it is worth what I paid for it and try to correct the fact that I probably got taken on it.

So the problem in question is the passenger side Header bolt is snapped off, this is very first one going from front of the engine back. All the other bolts are good and do not look like they were even touched leading me to believe that the owner before me started to take the stock headers off snapped this bolt and instead of fixing it or continuing the job they gave up and sold the car to the dealership that I bought it from. So now I have an exhaust leak between the header and head on the very front of the engine. I can hear it for the first 30 seconds to a min after the car starts depending on the temperature outside, and then when I am 4th or 5th gear around 1500rpm and start to accelerate I can hear it some too.

My question would be, is there anyway to remove that bolt without pulling the engine or taking the head off or anything major like that? And as a follow up I drive this car everyday, so will continuing to drive it cause damage that will be lasting to the life of the car? This leak is not excessive but enough that I can hear it and it bugs me. I have not noticed any power losses but it could be that I never had full power from the day I bought it?

Sorry if this post is long but I wanted to give a little background to give a better explanation. Thanks in advance to any answers!
 

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Since the exhaust manifold has to be removed to replace the gasket, I’d just take it to a trusted shop for the work. Once the manifold is removed, addressing the snapped off bolt isn’t too awfully difficult.
 

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2006 Mustang GT
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Since the exhaust manifold has to be removed to replace the gasket, I’d just take it to a trusted shop for the work. Once the manifold is removed, addressing the snapped off bolt isn’t too awfully difficult.
What he said in a nutshell.
Luckily the passenger side exhaust manifold is less of a PITA to remove than the driver's side but since there's a risk that more studs could snap during attempted removal, spray them down with PB Blaster or something similar and let them soak overnight.
Once the manifold is off, a mechanic can weld a nut to the broken stud and extract it. If the stump is too short, he might have to drill it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
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Since the exhaust manifold has to be removed to replace the gasket, I’d just take it to a trusted shop for the work. Once the manifold is removed, addressing the snapped off bolt isn’t too awfully difficult.
Thanks for the advice, I try to work on my own stuff. I have issues trusting most shops (been burned before) and because I have the knowledge to do the work but typically don't have the time or space to work on stuff. I was hoping someone would have a miracle method of removing the stud without removing the headers but it looks like I will be spending this weekend working on pulling the header off.
 

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Easy-out might not work… if accessible even through fender well flap and with drill extension; l would try with a 1/4x20 or 24 drilling hole and retap. Even that size case hardened would have tremendous pull in strength. Probably block threads would be stripped anyways trying to remove existing stub? That’s another fix.

Finer thread has more holding strength as I recall?
 

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2014 GT, 1967 Fairlane GTA
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I thought that I had an exhaust leak on my 2005 3v once(it turned out to be a loose spark plug) and I didn't want to attempt that manifold job at all. I was actually getting prepared to pay the $800 quote(pricing from 6+ years ago) for removing the manifold w/ $100 extra for each stud that might break. I'm glad I didn't have to.
I had been told by multiple mechanics at the time that an easy out/screw extractor is usually effective on the 3v if the bolt broke off in the head(it's aluminum).
Many times if there's any left of the bolt sticking out of the head you can put a good set of vice grips on what's left and simply spin it out because it's an aluminum head. Getting in the relatively limited space area around the manifold with hand and power tools would be the biggest challenge. This is why I was prepared to pay a shop to do it even though I also generally don't trust people to work on my car unless it's my Ford dealer.
Welding a nut on it like mentioned above is also a proven idea.
In any case as mentioned the whole manifold has to come off to change the gasket so there's a good chance that it's an all day job.
 

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Like Cobrajet67 said, I thought I had an exhaust leak on my 2v. I had just done the TO bearing and I kept hearing an exhaust leak type of sound. About a month later a plug blew out...

I've never heard of anyone ejecting a plug on a 3v but I would check just to make sure.
 
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