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wandering what my hp/tq would b on this setup?? 347 stroker with 30lb. inj. 70mm tb comp cam with gross lift int.555 exh.565 [email protected] int. 224 exh.232 edel. performer hds. 10-1 je pistons edel. rpm intake upper/lower 373rear gears detroit loc. posi. bbk short equal length headers bbk h-pipe with converters flowmaster american thunder system after cats 2 1/2 pipes tremec tko 600 5-speed trans. scat forged steel crnk. scat h-beam rods 255 lph fuel pump ur call on this would be appreciated THANKS
 

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Very similar setup as mine, almost exact, except I have AFR 185's and a little bigger cam. My motor is not put together yet, but I know I will be putting out over 460horse at the flywheel because AFR did a 302 with my top end and made 455hp @ 7000 rpm.
 

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Put your car on a CHASISI dyno and find out for your self. Ever car is different.

Eagle. not to sound mean. But did they have all the accesories on it as well? I know alot of companies like to dyno on an ENGINE DYNO with no accesories on it. Plus you lose some power through your drivetrain as well.


another note. 7,000 rpms is high. Most people will not turn their motors that high, except racing at the track. plus you need beefier parts as well. like valves, springs, etc. Plus I think you will start losing power top end with your intake setup.
 

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True after accesories you loose some power, but that is still impressive for a N/A setup with a stock bottom end. As for the high revs, alot of people are trying to build high reving motors as a way to try and out rev the competion. This setup revs through 7500rpm, but makes peak power @7000
 

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"Out Rev" the competition? Come again? I've had the best of both sides -- multiple foxbodies, 2 LS1 SS's, an older impreza with a Sti V7 Swap and a mitsu evo 8 (522awhp). Point of the matter is this -- I drove all those vehicles on a daily basis; and if you are turning 6500 or more I hope to hell you know how to maintain your vehicle.

A lot of people put themselves past the fact that hipo motors (to get a long life out of them) need bearings, valvetrain, etc. Inspected and replaced periodically. I'm not going to give a general # mileage wise -- but all my motors that I've rebuilt are still running to this day -- my first rebuild was a 1983 F150 straight 6 and the motor now has over 400,000 miles on it. I firmly believe that if its a work truck or something you beat/rev the piss out of -- replacement of the bearings every ~50k and inspection/replacement of the valvetrain around that time as well.

I have never had any problems, squeaks, rattles, groans -- NOTHING from any of the motors I have built. Then again people think I'm anal when it comes to maintenance.

Just My Two Cents...

-G (Sorry for the rambling its 3:00 here and I havent slep for the past two days, but my point is maintenance, maintenance, maintenance).
 

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Sorry, I should have neen more specific. I meant out rev the other 302 based block mustangs. Most red line @6500 This setup allows for more RPM's and makes really good horse power at high revs compared to other NMRA cars, or whatever the "other guy's the mustang has" What kinda power were you making with the WRX? I had a 04 STI that made 640 at the flywheel, 589 at the wheels with 30pounds of boost with no nos. Went through to many motors, and to much money. Best time was at the east coast subaru shoot out last year. [email protected] 122mph Never could get a damn 10 out of it.
 

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W-T-F... 30 lbs of boost in an sti -- too many motors.. uhh okay?

I don't mean to call bs or anything but err -- anyone who is/was a part of the subaru community between the landing of the MY02 wrx and now would know that 30psi on any subaru motor is suicidal -- let alone completely out of reference for such a little motor.

The older impreza was a bone stock sti v7 swap -- I also had an 02 wagon that I had brand new off the lot, at 50k the motor dropped and from there I went crazy; I was running a 2.2 liter old school (oil squirter) block with ported wrx heads, JUN 272 cams, no tumblers, and a homemade copycat of "Ultimate Racing's" setup -- including but not limited to a T4 with a 38mm external WG, fmic, 785cc injectors and methanol injection; transmitting through a used drivetrain that I picked up for just under 2800 -- dog box and kaaz 1.5 diffs. Car made 444whp, 414wtq at 19 psi. Vehicle had more in it but it was my daily driver, a wagon, and got more than 20k a month put on it (I sell home appliances and fences, 400 mile sales radius). To this day I miss that car -- and as of right now, having a buddies sti here that I am working on; I would take the wagon over the sti anyday. For the money that the sti is worth, the wagon is more comfortable, and more consistent.

As per the 7500rpm with a stock bottom end; meh, I still wouldn't do it. There is no reason to, period.Yeah there are lots of people who do do it, but I'd rather have a powerband/arc from say idle to 6000 rpm with full on balls to the walls torque instead of peaking at like 6500 with bajillion horsesl. But thats just me.

You want high revving nutbusting action? Then stay away from stock equipment and/or lean toward the import/dark side of things :).

I've been a stang guy all my life and let me say one last thing -- Ze Ls1 > Ze 5.0 for revving past 5k.


It was a nice car -- but I had to get back into a foxbody.

-G
 
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