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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I have purchased a 2011 GT with a bad engine (hole in block).

The original plan when I bought the car earlier this week was to just buy a motor from a wrecker and install and start my track suspension build. But after researching cams and bolt ons and finding marginal HP gains, I decided I should look at a forged bottom end and go FI. Been looking at the Aluminator short blocks, 11.5 and 9.5 compression. I talked to Ford Racing today and they have done a change up on the Aluminator block to the 2015 block and the price has gone up $1200 on the short blocks. MSRP is now $6695, vs $5495. Old part number is not available.

Goals in terms of HP - My dad just ordered a 2016 Z06 Vette, so it would be nice to keep up with him. I think 650-750hp crank is plenty for this chassis on a road course. Although it would be cool to have 800rwph, it would not be all that usable on the track. And at this point I dont want to be upgrading the driveline.

My local shop has suggested going with a Roush 2300 TVS phase 3 kit. 675HP

I have also been looking at the JCP single turbo kit. Gives me better flexability for dialing the HP I want and potential for bigger power should I decide to invest in driveline upgrades.

Anyone running the JCP or other turbo kits at the track? Is heat an issue?
What about SC guys running on the track?

What are the thoughts on the Aluminator short blocks?

Thanks for your help!
 

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If you are going to use FI on a road track, cooling / heat ejection needs to be top priority. Intercooler; heat exchanger; pumps, etc. need to be top notch or it will overheat.

There is a 2010 Roush Stage III at the road track where I go; he overheats and I don't. Same car, except his has the TVS 2300 on it.

If I was going to attempt that, I would start by contacting user "sqidd" on here, he is the best supercharger cooling guru that I know of.
 
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I am unaware of a single FI coyote car in Texas or Oklahoma that does track stuff without problems.

If you really want to make power *cough*LS swap*cough* or put a big SBF in there. I think that would cause you fewer problems than FI will.

What's your plan for safety, brakes, and suspension? I'd get that squared away long before planning on power.
 

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BTW- it will be easy to go faster than your dad. He'll be pitting on lap 3 with his engine in limp mode.
 
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BTW- it will be easy to go faster than your dad. He'll be pitting on lap 3 with his engine in limp mode.
LOL, please share . . . an issue with the C7 Z06's?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Csamsh, I only bought the car this week. The engine is not running and has a hole in the block. So that is the priority. Once I have a plan for the engine I will start planning the upgrades for the rest of the car.

C7 ZO6s have heat issues and have blown a few engines up.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
And as much as I do love LS engines, not up for cross manufacturer swap on this mustang.

I am Just finishing a 5.3 LS swap into my 2010 Wrangler. Lots of tuning issues as I decided to go with a manual Trans and pretty much all the wrangler LS 'swap kits' are set up for autos.
 

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Then...if you want that much power, reliably, with a Ford engine, I'd figure out how to get an aluminum block Windsor-based 427 in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Not keen on that either.

If FI is not reliable for track on a coyote, maybe I will stay NA with cams, etc.
 

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I've read that putting big HP into a Mustang requires big changes not only in suspension, brakes and cooling, but also the basic structure of the car.


Anyways, I'd just go with the FRP Aluminator N/A engine, which is good for at least 500HP, and put real money into suspension, brakes, differential, cooling, chassis stiffening, and perhaps a different transmission. It's not just how much power you make, but how you get it to the road and use it.


Which, I'm guessing you already know.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The FRP Aluminator XS is listed as 500+HP but it is $14k MSRP.
The Aluminator NA is stock HP.

Looking at other options for build on NA engine to see costs for 500+/- whp

The rest of the car will be built right, regardless of engine choice.
 

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Checkout Lawman's build thread. He had his stock motor rebuilt from the bottom-up with all the right parts. I should add, I think he spent close to $10K on the engine build. So, factoring in the cost of a donor motor puts you in the same ballpark as that $14K Aluminator engine. If you're going to drop that kind of coin, might as well get the Aluminator. I think it comes with a warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for the info. I think NA is best set up for my needs. I have been researching this week and will post a new thread on my proposed NA build...
 
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