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Discussion Starter #41
What's funny to me is that my little Fiat 500 came with a Bose Premium sound system, and my Shaker 500 sounds a million times better IMO.
My NSX has a factory Bose sound system, and it is not that great either. You know what they say...No highs, no lows, must be Bose. :)
 
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I always heard Bose referred to as Blows. The system has a lot of high tinny sounds but no mid or lows. There is a subwoofer in the car but low frequencies alway sound muddy.
 

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Anyone know how to get the rear deck off to replace the rear speakers for a 2011-2013?
There was a video but the was for a 2009, he took off the side moulding on both sides, seems it should be easier than that esp with fold down seats?

Has anybody done it?
 

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Anyone know how to get the rear deck off to replace the rear speakers for a 2011-2013?
There was a video but the was for a 2009, he took off the side moulding on both sides, seems it should be easier than that esp with fold down seats?

Has anybody done it?
I heard its a pain. You might have to unbolt the seat mounts where it folds from above. I took out the rear seat on my install, but never touched the rear speakers.

Btw its crazy how much the rear seats dampen road noise. When I put the seats back in it was waaay quieter. For anyone considering rear seat delete

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I have to disagree. I updated my door speakers and then got an active processor (JBL MS-8) and it made a HUGE difference with stock head unit. It actually sounded amazing. I did amp my door speakers and rear speakers as well.
This sounds about right. I remember hearing somewhere that ford spent all this money to equalize the head units on these cars, but then put in these crap speakers and the ranges still don't sound so hot even with higher-end speakers. So a post-processor and speaker swap does a good job of solving both of those problems, while not having to muck with the head unit at all.

Too bad Amazon wants almost five bills for one and they say it won't fit my car! :heha:
 

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I heard another fellas Shaker 500 after he replaced the door speakers only and it sounded much cleaner and clearer. not sure how much difference replacing the rears would make, I have a small amount of fade to the rear just for fill. he used Polk Audio db571's so I bought a set of 4 and never got around to installing them...:yup: I bet they would have sounded just fine.
 
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The price for decent speakers is reasonable enough that I would have replaced the rears too, but getting to them is a pain. And I don't trust anyone enough to let them rip my interior apart and put it back together again correctly or with care. And after just replacing the front speakers, I'm satisfied enough not to worry about it.
 

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I have a '14 with the Shaker system, and while Ford says it's been "updated" I can't find specifics as far as speaker size. Crutchfield doesn't have enough data yet.

I assume the larger speaker in the bottom of the door is an 8" woofer, and there's still a 6x8 in the upper door panel and in the rear deck? Can anyone clarify this ?

I'm not overally impressed with the system. Too bass heavy for my tastes, high ends are lacking.
 

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I have a '14 with the Shaker system, and while Ford says it's been "updated" I can't find specifics as far as speaker size. Crutchfield doesn't have enough data yet.

I assume the larger speaker in the bottom of the door is an 8" woofer, and there's still a 6x8 in the upper door panel and in the rear deck? Can anyone clarify this ?

I'm not overally impressed with the system. Too bass heavy for my tastes, high ends are lacking.
Yup the door subs have no quality bass. And as Hog mentioned, the rear speakers aren't necessary to replace. Nobody sits back there anyway.

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The OEM speakers are very crappy quality.

The install is very easy and there are a few videos on youtube showing how to do it. Takes about an hour to two (or six if you're okie).
Can someone please post links to the videos on changing out the rear speakers....and wiring in Amps for our cars! :D



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I have to disagree. I updated my door speakers and then got an active processor (JBL MS-8) and it made a HUGE difference with stock head unit. It actually sounded amazing. I did amp my door speakers and rear speakers as well.
What exactly is an active processor ?


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Vegas, I follwed the instructions taking out the wings/sail panels. It was a pain but doable. You need to get the rear shelf out and can only do it with those panels out. Doing both F/R took me about 4 hrs (way more time on the rears) as I said earlier the time and $ was well worth it. It ain't a kick asp system but way better than the *%#^ base system. Be carefull when reinstalling the wings I ended up with a minor interior scratch on the panels below the wings. If anyone less than three feet tall sits back there they'll notice. Larger people will be more concerned with the lack of room....
 

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Can someone please post links to the videos on changing out the rear speakers....and wiring in Amps for our cars! :D



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Here's a good read for wiring an Amplifier. http://www.evilcartman.com/shaker-500-add-a-sub-install.html

Shows you where to run your power lead wires. You want to isolate the power wire to one side of the car. Run any extra wires on the other side of the car to reduce noise in your stereo. I chose to Ground my amp on the rear seat seatbelt bolt. Just sanded it down to bare metal and it worked perfect.

Sound processors take your aftermarket or existing sound system and calibrate it to optimum settings. Think of it like a professional EQ Tuning system. It can be run auto or manual adjustments as well. They can make a big difference.

You could run a 5ch. amp for simplicity. But it would probably be better to use a 1ch. mono amplifier. There are many types of amplifiers such as Class A/B & D. Most amplifiers for your front and rear speakers are class A/B amplifiers. Most people prefer to use Class D for bass, as they are more efficient and keep cooler for running sub woofers. For most setups I would say just keep the rear speakers stock (as they are mostly rear fill). Once you upgrade your front speakers you will not really be able to hear the rears anymore. You should only need a 2Ch amplifier for your front speakers and a 1Ch amplifier for a subwoofer, if you feel you need one. Pick your speakers and sub first then find an amp that matches the rms power you need.
 
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Can someone please post links to the videos on changing out the rear speakers....and wiring in Amps for our cars! :D



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I did the rears a couple weekends ago and did my fronts last year. Took all of 45 minutes, most of that was splicing wires because I didn't get the right connectors. (Got them now.) You just need to loosen all the panels in the back of the car, then remove the rear deck material and swap the speakers. The only tough part was the back 2 screws, you'll need a shorty screwdriver or a rachet with a phillips bit in it because there's not much room between the deck and window.

Guys, these cars are beyond easy to work on, trust me it's all very intuitive when you get into it. Don't be afraid to take things apart. That's how I learned everything I know.

The most frustrating thing with my car was the front sway bar. It's a 2 man job but one man can do it if he curses at it enough ;)
 

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I’ve pulled the front and rear of the interior of my 2011 V6 Mustang apart to install 4 new speakers and an additional amp. I pulled the rear panels out twice. The first time was to install my rear speakers and then at a later date to run the wiring for my amp. At this point I can safely say that it is a PITA.
You have to be prepared to do some significant pulling knowing that the chances are nothing bad will happen. That doesn’t mean that nothing bad can happen if you yank something too hard in the wrong direction. You have to be patient as you work on the removal process. The panels are held together by various types of retaining clips. The doors also have several screws that need to be removed.
To replace the rear speakers, you need to remove the Scuff Plate Trim Panel (the sill plate below the door), the lower portion of the seat, the lower quarter trim panel and the parcel shelf (the part that covers the speakers). I also removed the upper quarter trim panel when I replaced my rear speakers, but you may be able to remove the parcel plate without removing this piece.
WARNING!!!! If you decide to remove the upper quarter trim panel, this piece has a wire that goes to the rear window defrost. If you pull on the panel before you remove the wire from the notch on the panel, you will probably tear the defrost connector from the rear windshield.
My biggest problem was the removal of the Scuff Plate Trim Panel. Each panel has 4 connectors and the one at the rear of the panel did not want to release. It appeared to be attached in a different manner. In any event when I replaced them, they held on fine with the 3 remaining connectors and the double stick tape that Ford also used.
I recommend going to the Online Browseable Manual for the 2011 Mustang which is located on the first page of this section of the forum. Section 501-05 contains exploded views of many of the panels you will have to remove and some information about how to remove them.
I've placed some links below. Since I don't do this stuff often I don't know if the links will work.
I Hope this Helps.

2012 Mustang Shaker 500 Add A Sub Install - www.Evilcartman.com

How to disassemble your car for a stereo install (detailed with lots of pics!) - The Mustang Source - Ford Mustang Forums

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2011-mustang-talk/274973-2011-shaker-500-sounds-crappy-7.html

Ford Service Manuals - REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Trim - Exploded View.pdf


2011 Kona V6 Auto, Premium, 3.31 Rear End, Pony Package, NAV System Electronics Package, Comfort Package, Security Package, Remote Start, Rear Video Camera, Deck Lid Panel, Quarter Window Louvers, Side Scoops.

Mods: C&L CAI, Bama Tune (93H), BBK TB, Magnaflow Street Axel Backs, Boss 302 Strut Tower Brace, Pony Engine Cover, MMD Hood Struts, Window Tint, Sony XM GS400 amp, Four Infinity Ref 8602cfx Speakers, Weathertech Floormats.
 

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And as Hog mentioned, the rear speakers aren't necessary to replace. Nobody sits back there anyway.

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While I agree rear speakers aren't necessary, I prefer having rear speakers. The stereo sounds much better when the rear speakers are turned up with the fade control.

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While I agree rear speakers aren't necessary, I prefer having rear speakers. The stereo sounds much better when the rear speakers are turned up with the fade control.

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I agree, especially since no one occupies the back seats. Why not replace them?

Any thoughts on 2-way speakers? I've heard the 3-ways should be avoided at all costs.
 
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