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I agree, especially since no one occupies the back seats. Why not replace them?

Any thoughts on 2-way speakers? I've heard the 3-ways should be avoided at all costs.
I guess why not if your changing stuff anyway. Im more of a 2ch stereo type of guy when it comes to music I guess. I had the rears disabled at first but then some people that sat in the back seat once were complaining. So I ran the stocks again in the rears.

My new front speakers can cover my front stage just fine by themselves. I just dont like hearing sounds coming from the rear speakers. I do the same with my home theater. Movies is surround sound. Music is 2 channel stereo. Just preference I think.


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I've heard that 3 ways tend to have lower quality sound. (?) Don't know.

I've never owned anything other than factory stereo systems (some were 3-way) in beat up old 70's road barges and 80's tuna cans, so nothing has ever had great quality sound in my ears. Stereos have just never been a priority to me.

But now, since I have an awesome pony, I wouldn't mind sinking some sound dollars into her, though I'd rather just stick with quality speakers and not mess with a trunk full of amps or subwoofers.

Thinking of replacing my door speakers first, with some good mid-ranges. Maybe put new bass speakers in the rear.

Reading all the responses here and trying to get ideas. Plenty of shops around here to go and sample speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
This is an interesting discussion with lots of solutions. To say I'm totally confused now is an understatement. :)
 

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While we are on the speaker subject. As I said, earlier my Pioneer TS D6802R's are on he UPS truck. But what Im wondering is the sensitivity rating on therm is 88 Db. Ive read that the sensitivity on some of the Polks that a lot of guys like is 98Db. So Im wondering if the Pioneers will need a lot more volume control input to drive them and get to good sound levels. For the guys with the Pioneer TS D6802R's , did you notice lower sound levels at the same setting w when you replaced the speakers with them ?
I like it loud.:winks
 

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While we are on the speaker subject. As I said, earlier my Pioneer TS D6802R's are on he UPS truck. But what Im wondering is the sensitivity rating on therm is 88 Db. Ive read that the sensitivity on some of the Polks that a lot of guys like is 98Db. So Im wondering if the Pioneers will need a lot more volume control input to drive them and get to good sound levels. For the guys with the Pioneer TS D6802R's , did you notice lower sound levels at the same setting w when you replaced the speakers with them ?
I like it loud.:winks
Higher sensitivity should mean a more efficient speaker with the same amount of power. However, I don't know if you will notice it all that much. The Polks DB571 5x7 speakers have a sensitivity of 93db. So your Pioneers are close to them. Specs are Specs from the manufacturer until your hear them with your own ears. You should be happy with your Pioneers.

The Pioneer TS D6802R's look like great speaker IMO. They have a wide frequency range that will match well with almost any type of music. A nice thing about the Polks is the tweeter has a mix of Silk material which can be more smooth sounding, but again this is a picky preference thing.
 

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If one wishes to add in a sub, would one then need a 5 channel amp ?
You can get a mono (single channel) amp to run the sub, but it would probably drown out your speakers if they were only hooked up to a HU. I have a 5 channel amp, but that extra channel makes it more expensive. What I like about it is it makes the install/setup easier and cleaner.

As for speakers that are for just the HU, wattage is the key specification. 50-60w would be my preference, sensitivity probably won't be noticeable. The big names will all be close to one another. What really counts is which sounds best for the money. I'd check some speakers out before I purchased, although the big names probably all sound pretty good.

3 way or 2 way? If they are only for the HU save your cash & purchase 2 way speakers. I'd lean towards 6x9 for that application.

I have high power 2 way 5x7s on my system, they perform well in the mid & high range, while the sub covers the lows.
 

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From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

A quote from the above source regarding speaker sensitivity.

"A driver with a higher maximum power rating cannot necessarily be driven to louder levels than a lower-rated one, since sensitivity and power handling are largely independent properties. In the examples that follow, assume (for simplicity) that the drivers being compared have the same electrical impedance, are operated at the same frequency within both driver's respective pass bands, and that power compression and distortion are low. For the first example, a speaker 3 dB more sensitive than another produces double the sound power (or be 3 dB louder) for the same power input. Thus, a 100 W driver ("A") rated at 92 dB for 1 W @ 1 m sensitivity puts out twice as much acoustic power as a 200 W driver ("B") rated at 89 dB for 1 W @ 1 m when both are driven with 100 W of input power. In this particular example, when driven at 100 W, speaker A produces the same SPL, or loudness as speaker B would produce with 200 W input. Thus, a 3 dB increase in sensitivity of the speaker means that it needs half the amplifier power to achieve a given SPL. This translates into a smaller, less complex power amplifier—and often, to reduced overall system cost."
 

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From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

A quote from the above source regarding speaker sensitivity.

"A driver with a higher maximum power rating cannot necessarily be driven to louder levels than a lower-rated one, since sensitivity and power handling are largely independent properties. In the examples that follow, assume (for simplicity) that the drivers being compared have the same electrical impedance, are operated at the same frequency within both driver's respective pass bands, and that power compression and distortion are low. For the first example, a speaker 3 dB more sensitive than another produces double the sound power (or be 3 dB louder) for the same power input. Thus, a 100 W driver ("A") rated at 92 dB for 1 W @ 1 m sensitivity puts out twice as much acoustic power as a 200 W driver ("B") rated at 89 dB for 1 W @ 1 m when both are driven with 100 W of input power. In this particular example, when driven at 100 W, speaker A produces the same SPL, or loudness as speaker B would produce with 200 W input. Thus, a 3 dB increase in sensitivity of the speaker means that it needs half the amplifier power to achieve a given SPL. This translates into a smaller, less complex power amplifier—and often, to reduced overall system cost."
This is getting complicated. So according to this article, a pioneer with 88 Db sensitivity as compared to a Polk with 93Db sensitivity will require twice the wattage to achive the same loudness. Correct ?
 

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Randeez its not going to make a huge difference. Specs are given by the manufacturer but how they come to their results can be misleading. Its always like this in the electronics world. Specs are a good judgement of a product but arent always the ONLY factor.

Think of HDTVs with contrast ratios, refresh rates etc. Headphones with super high efficiency at 108db then you plug in your source and the volume is so low. A Polk speaker that costs $60 has a 93db sensitivity and a $200 speaker has a 88db rating...which is better? Sometimes its the other way around.

Theres just a lot that goes into specs. Theres also a distortion factor too. If your feeding those Pioneers with their recommended 60 watts, id bet they will be plenty loud for you.



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Heres a Audiobahn speaker with a 91db sensitivity Audiobahn AMS680H 6" x 8" 2-Way Murdered Out Coaxial Car Speakers

But I would still recommend those Pioneer 6x8s or the Polks instead. The polks might be twice as loud tho...id doubt it tho. But never know I guess

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Confusing for me, I know what you are saying. I just dont want speakers in the front that will require so much power to get to my level of comfort that it will blow the hell out of the factory rear ones.Hopefully the Pioneers will be close to the factory loudness at the same volume setting. Guess ill find out soon when i install them.
 

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Let me preface this explanation by first saying that I am NOT a professional when it comes to audio.
My understanding of sensitivity is as follows:
The sensitivity of a speaker is going to dictate how many watts of power you have to input into it to achieve a given level of audio output. If you can get to your comfort level by turning the volume control to say 40% with a high efficiency speaker and let’s say 70% with the low efficiency speaker, generally, you will be introducing more distortion into the music at the 70% volume level. This happens because as you increase the volume and push the amplifier closer to its limits, a thing called "clipping" occurs as the sound wave is chopped off at the top. The amplifier, at its peak, is simply unable to deliver a clean (undistorted) sound wave unless it has what is called dynamic headroom (reserve power that is available when needed). I don’t think the Stang’s amp has this ability. How much of a problem this will be depends upon whether the amp you use can satisfy the demands of the music you will be listening to at the volume you enjoy. If your speaker is rated at 60 watts, your amplifier should, at a minimum, be able to provide at least this amount of power.
I guess the best thing to do is visit a local car audio shop and ask the pros what they think.
 

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Let me preface this explanation by first saying that I am NOT a professional when it comes to audio.
My understanding of sensitivity is as follows:
The sensitivity of a speaker is going to dictate how many watts of power you have to input into it to achieve a given level of audio output. If you can get to your comfort level by turning the volume control to say 40% with a high efficiency speaker and let’s say 70% with the low efficiency speaker, generally, you will be introducing more distortion into the music at the 70% volume level. This happens because as you increase the volume and push the amplifier closer to its limits, a thing called "clipping" occurs as the sound wave is chopped off at the top. The amplifier, at its peak, is simply unable to deliver a clean (undistorted) sound wave unless it has what is called dynamic headroom (reserve power that is available when needed). I don’t think the Stang’s amp has this ability. How much of a problem this will be depends upon whether the amp you use can satisfy the demands of the music you will be listening to at the volume you enjoy. If your speaker is rated at 60 watts, your amplifier should, at a minimum, be able to provide at least this amount of power.
I guess the best thing to do is visit a local car audio shop and ask the pros what they think.
What your saying makes sense. Im not a pro. Just an electronics enthusiast. I just think that Randeez has his mind set that his Pioneers will be half as loud. My Alpines are 88db but have a 110rms rating. They are plenty loud. And as grampstang said with efficiency, it is better as my amp pushes them with 125 watts rms. I never push my amp to its limit so that I dont have to see any distortion come into play.

I would agree that with a low power stock output having the most efficient speaker would be beneficial. But in a $60-80 range I think both the Polks and Pioneers should be comparable in performance. Let us know how it sounds when you put them in. U have them on order regardless.

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Great info mtu245! Great detail!

I know all about CB Amplifiers/Linears and the havoc they can cause on radios and all sorts of stuff! :yup:

Believe it or not, I had a 1400 Watt Mobile Linear set up. All stuffed in an 1985 Riviera. My setup would give a [email protected] miles. No joke! Had GrantXL SSB dead keyed 0 Watts swing to 35 Watts, going into a 100 Watt Modulator, going into a 400 Watt (4) pill box, going into a TX800 (8) pill box! Hard wired into (2) 1000cc batteries, fed by a 140 Amp (way too small) alternator! Since the alternator was too small, the cars head lights would "modulate" along with my voice modulation! I don't know if anybody understands all the above, but it was freaking WILD as hell!

Man! The stories I have from those days! :hihi:
 

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I just heard a Shaker500 system today in my buddy's 07GT. Sounded great IMHO !

What size speakers are the door Subs and what would it take to install and wire them up ?


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8" woofers on each side. Shelby take offs sell a pair of Kicker 8s for $150. Mounting them would be interesting. Maybe if you used some MDF circle cut outs or were good at using fiberglass. I would look at buying a shaker500 door panel for ease of install, but not sure how much thatd be.

A single 10" in my trunk sounds almost the same as my two 8" shakers did for volume. I would go with a sub in the trunk instead like a MTX OEM fit one. Easier install I think.

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If one wishes to add in a sub, would one then need a 5 channel amp ?


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Nope, I added a 10" powered Bazooka. Sounds amazing. Clean, can be adjusted so you can have it hit you with added bass or just a touch of bass. I have mine set at 25% and it has plenty of bass.
 
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