[Kenster]

I got my 68 200-6 'vert in late July. Haven't had time to drive it more than a couple hundred miles, at most. The oil looked a bit dirty when I got it. I finally had a chance to change it a couple of days ago and was amazed how dirty it was. Not just black but gritty. After I drained the oil and replaced the filter I was about to add new oil. I looked down into the filler hole and could see dirt inside. I stuck one finger down and rubbed it on the inside of the engine, as far as I could reach.
It felt dirty/gritty.

I did drive it for a while to get it good and warmed up before draining the oil.

I'm thinking it would be a good idea to change the oil again in the near future. I'm using Mobil One 10W-30 for High Mileage Vehicles.

I know suggested oil changes are at 3500 to 5000 miles but that could be several years for our cars that are not daily drivers. What is a good guideline for changing oil on cars that driven maybe 1000 miles a year?

Thanks for any guidance, suggestions.

Ken

 

[ShortySmalls]

5k miles or every 6 months is what ive always heard

and i would maybe go buy a bunch of cheap oil, and do like 4-5 oil changes with it within a week span to get all that crap out, and then go ahead and put the good stuff back in.

 

[Print Dad]

Hello Kenster,
It sounds as if your motor has a LOT of SLUDGE built up
probably from previous owner neglect on oil changes.

You should try to clean up the inside of the motor.
There are 3 methods that can be used to help.

Method 1 - kind of a little radical - BUT - it will help.
Add about 1/2 quart of good old kerosene to the oil - -then
run the motor for about 10 minutes - - then DRAIN well
CHANGE your FILTER and oil to your regular oil.
DO NOT run the motor with the kerosene for long just 10-15 minutes.

Method 2 - Less radical - - Add about 1/2 quart of MArvel Mystery OIl
to the motor and drive it about 100 miles. DO NOT add too much but
1/2 quart is OK. This will loosen oil sludge and help clean things up.

Method 3 - This will take longer BUT will also help.
Every time you change OIL and FILTER - -use one less quart of regular
oil and add 1 quart of Marvel Mystery oil.

as far as changes for the oil on low driven cars.
I change the oil EVERY start of the driving season regardless of miles.
Oil is affected by time as well as use or miles.

So my advice - -try to clean up the insides using one of the methods above
and change the OIL and FILTER at the start of each SPRING

Hope this helps

Print DAd

 

[Tony 64]

Just run an oil flush through the engine to get a lot of the crap out, then new oil.
You should be happier with the result.

 

[Stoner53]

I had the same issue when i picked up my 289 a few months ago. Ive changed the oil a couple times since then. The technique i used was to change the oil and filter then let it idle for maybe 15-20 minutes. Then drain the oil, refill it woth new oil and let it idle again. After i drained it the second time i replaced the filter and refilled the oil then drove it about a hundred miles and really gave it time to work out all the gunk and debris that had fallen inside. Then change the oil and filter again. By this point my oil is coming out clean even after running. Its probably also a good idea to check inside the valve covers and do a good cleaning in there. I found chunks of plastic in my oil and when i removed the valve covers i found that the previous owner had somehow smashed a plastic pcv valve and all the peices had gone down into the engine.


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com Free App

 

[mustangstar11]

just run water through it, shouldnt that help?.............kidding :nono::winks

 

[gearheadhick429]

kind of a question/ suggestion. dont these sixes run a flat tappet cam as well and require a zink additive? just something to remember when changing oil. if not youl have some cam damage.

i am very aware how important it is on my 289 as im aware it has a flat tappet with solids to boot.

 

[ShortySmalls]

i would also give some seafoam a try in it.

 

[Kenster]

kind of a question/ suggestion. dont these sixes run a flat tappet cam as well and require a zink additive? just something to remember when changing oil. if not youl have some cam damage.

i am very aware how important it is on my 289 as im aware it has a flat tappet with solids to boot.

Never, ever, heard of or read about any required additive for a 200 I-6 engine. I've never heard of it for a 289, either.

 

[gearheadhick429]

id do a little research then. iv always found that some sort of a zink additive is required to prevent lobe wear. could be wrong but im pretty sure i am not. they took out zink to prevent cats from loading up. zink is what protects the flat tappet cam. not needed for roller.

if i am wrong then well i am wrong. but i felt id rather be safe than sorry. i have never seemed to wipe any cam lobes yet. just what i read when i started building engines.

 

[hotrodfeguy]

In the old days we would run a qt of diesel in just before the oil change to remove the sludge and gunk out. drop the oil and good to go.

 

[Cracker289]

I use Rotella oil (designed for diesel engines) in my old 351c because it has higher detergent than motor oils made for gasoline engines. Not sure if that would be a good suggestion for you in your case or not, but I'm happy with it.

 

[Kenster]

kind of a question/ suggestion. dont these sixes run a flat tappet cam as well and require a zink additive? just something to remember when changing oil. if not youl have some cam damage.

i am very aware how important it is on my 289 as im aware it has a flat tappet with solids to boot.

Okay, Gearhead. Now I understand what you're talking about. When you said "additive" I was thinking of something like a bottle of STP. But you mean an additive already in the oil. And I've got that covered. My Mobile One oil has a good percentage of ZDDP in it.

I'm good to go. (I just didn't know it!)

Thanks!

 

[hotrodfeguy]

The additive package is just the zinc in the oil. And the 6cly has a hyd cam. If its ticking pull the VC off and see witch one is making the noise. Its either a PR or a lifter.