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Discussion Starter #1
Just wondering if anyone hear is running the B springs on their 2.3? There is a lot of feedback from the 5.0 guys, but not too much info from the 2.3 guys so I am wondering where they stand.

I am in the market for some mild drop, streetable lowering springs, and these seem to fit the bill well, also the fact that they can be used with stock shocks and struts is great too! The specs say that they will lower a '94-'04 car 1.5"/ 0.75" and the Fox platform .875"/ .5".

I think I would be content with a 1" drop, but have seen that a lot of 5.0 guys are reporting a larger drop than advertised. Anyone with experience with them on the 2.3's in actual height and ride? Pics are nice too. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Maybe I should open this up to the Eibach Pro users as well since they are supposedly the same spring, just re-branded.

Basically what I am trying to do is figure out what the overall drop will be so I can plan accordingly. I cannot seem to find what the stock fender/ride height is of the 2.3 Mustang, does anybody know by chance? Right now my car rides at 26 1/4" on the driver side and 26 3/4" on the passenger side. The isolators are shot on the drivers side and the springs are riding metal on metal, so I figured that theoretically once the new isolators are on they will level the car out on both sides.

A lot of 5.0 users report about a 1.25-1.5" drop, despite the .85" and .5" advertised drop. Using a GT's fender height of 27" (+/- for accessories and manufacturing tolerances) as a starting point, with a worst case scenario we will say I get a 1.5" drop. Factor in the lighter engine weight of the 2.3 in addition to less overhang weight and we will say this will raise the car .25", then using poly isolators that crush less than factory rubber we will add another .25" increase. Bringing the total drop to 1", putting the car at 26", .5" lower than it currently is.

At first I was thinking that I should get the thickest possible isolators to help ensure that the drop will not be too drastic, but now I am wondering if the lighter/less overhanging weight is enough to keep the drop around 1" and that I should just get the isolator that is closest to stock, to avoid it raising the car too much. What do you guys think? I know I tend to over think things and make them worse than they really are, but does my method of thinking make any sense, or have I gone off the deep end?

Prothane
6-1701 .225" bottom .400" top
6-1703 .220" bottom .800" top

BBK
2545 .375” top .210" bottom
2546 .375” bottom .200" top

Energy Suspensions
Still waiting on response.
 

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Eibachs will be harsh

I guess you didn't dig the H&R Sport suggestion?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes and no…..after countless forums/threads it came down to B springs or H&R springs, the H&R’s had very few negative comments and seem to be the better overall spring, but also double the cost of the B’s. I realize you get what you pay for, but at double the cost, and the fact that I do not have the money to get a good set of shocks/struts to compliment the H&R’s I figured the B’s might be the safer way to go. What shocks/struts are you running with your H&R’s?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Going to shift gears here. Anyone with the Eibach Pro, Motorsport B's, or H&R Sports, have experience with KYB's GR2 and Gas-A-Just? Just wondering what kind of ride they provide. There seems to be a mix of opinions (mostly 5.0) of them being just right and others saying they are too stiff with lowering springs.

I was thinking of either going GR2's on all corners or GR2's up front and Gas-A-Just on the rear. I know Koni's would be ideal, but they are out of my price range. My preference would be Strange 10 ways but I am not ready to swap spindles/brakes etc. So KYB's are looking good right now.
 

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Have "B" springs in the 2.3T '89 convertible with oem Mach 1 Tokico's.
Ride is quite harsh, really hit's hard on RR tracks or any road irregularity.
I bought this car with cut down front Tbird T-coupe springs and shocks set on firm, was almost solid so this is better than that. Not sure, but must be factory front A-arms but the car is low, and drags on any speedbump. No isulators though.
I've also got lowering/geometry brackets on the rear end and this also factors the lowering.
Also had KYB's GR2's on the LTD LX and they were crap.Choppy and were unpredictable.:nono:Trashed those for the Mach Tokico's and that was a great match, only took those out to do coil overs and Illumina's...:yelpleased:
Don't rule out used parts, there's lots of people who upgrade or change their combo's... :yup:...
like me, but I've got nothing to re-sell right now
 
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