[68er]

allow me to bounce this one off you just for the hell of it:

what all is involved on swapping to a 1350 pinion yoke on a 9" diff?

does the center section need to come apart to properly set a new crush sleeve? or can i just swap'em out with a rattle gun using the old sleeve? i know what the book says - just shooting from the hip here. anyone ever got away with this?

the stock driveshaft vibrates at speed (old rubber sleeved type). driveshaft king balanced it twice, but it still vibrates up past 90 or so.

so..... i found a smoking deal on a correct length dynotech shaft, but with 1350 u-joints.

my dilema is, that i can get a 1350 yoke substantially cheaper than a 1330-1350 conversion u-joint. (yep....i'm a cheapskate)

i already have to get 1 conversion joint for the slip yoke, because i'm having a hard time locating a 1350 slip yoke with 28 splines to match a t5.

so, if its an easy swap -> cha-ching. otherwise,.....i'll be throwing even more cash at this sucker.

what do y'all think?

 

[silver69]

Easy to do this but when you tighten the new/replacement yoke on the diff do not use an inpact to tighten it up. book says 12"lbs to rotate pinion. snug it up with a ratchet and then apply the specified 12-14"lb to make the pinion rotate.
Dont confuse 12"lb with the torque required to tighten the pinion nut. an easy description of what is going on is two timken style(typiical front wheel bearing) bearings (back to back)are snugged up with the pinion nut and when that tightness is right it should take no more than 12-14"lbs of effort/work/torque/power to spin the pinion.
hope this helps a little
joe

 

[68er]

Yep. But how many inch/pounds must you add to compensate for the extra drag caused by the ring gear, carrier bearings, axle bearings, wheel mass, brake pad friction, etc ?

That 12 inch/pounds spec is with the pinion shaft installed without the ring gear/ carrier assy.

I'd rather spend the extra money on a conversion u-joint before basically rebuilding the diff.