Forged 2007 Mustang GT Internals HP Level

Forged internals with stock block you are good to 700flywheel which is roughly 600rwhp. If you go full forged internals you are definately looking at a new flywheel because you are going from 6 bolt stock to 8 bolt forged. With that much horsepower you will also need a serious clutch and lines. Your transmission will not be able to handle that at all either so figure $3000 for that. One option to save yourself money is to forge the rods and pistons only. The stock crank is good to 600rwhp. That's the serious horsepower level, plus you can retain the stock flywheel which is actually stout and save mone on a block. There will be more costs to everything else. What kind of power delivery system turbo, centri, PD blower, nitrous? If your talking a blower then you gotta worry about 6 to 8 or even 10 rib conversion with better belt tensioner. The rear end is not gonna make it either. Axles, and rear end....it's a serious build. My tuner recommends a return-style fuel system after 550rwhp(along with several others), read as money... Sqidd had a breakdown of parts and prices somewhere on here. It aint cheap. You could probably get away with murder on the rearend and transmission if you never put drag radials under your car. Sqidd, Hubkap, [email protected], 10/05GT, ForensicSteve, STLWagon, and several more folks have horsepower in and above that department to give you an idea of the costs. I had emailed http://www.shraderperformance.com/ mr. schrader and he quoted me $4300ish. That was forged rods and pistons and checking everything out at the same time, proper machining, new high volume oil pump, and of course about a $1000 of that cost was taking the blower off and putting it back on.

no, no, no and no... at 700 hp you have to upgrade the entire car, suspension, transmission, fuel system, etc...why do you think you need 700? If it was me, I'd sell the car and buy a GT500, slap a big whipple on it and call it done.
Builds take buckets of cash, take forever and it's hard to find someone that knows what they are doing...

Oh and I want the most hp that my 20" rims and low profile (295/30/20) tires can handle. I WILL NOT have street drag radials on my DD so if 600 rwhp is too much then so be it. I will lower the hp goals...I think a centri will be best for that so I could use my current tires and rims and will be able to have the most hp possible. No nitrous, that stuff is too ricey to me. Why? What on earth do you mean WHY do I need that much HP?:headscratch: Because I NEED MORE POWAAHH!! :evillol::rockwoot::racer:

2Manystangs said:

at 700 hp you have to upgrade the entire car, suspension, transmission, fuel system, etc...

Click to expand...

+100000!!!

IWantBoost said:

Oh and I want the most hp that my 20" rims and low profile (295/30/20) tires can handle. *I WILL NOT have street drag radials on my DD so if 600 rwhp is too much then so be it. *I will lower the hp goals...

Click to expand...

Then 600 rwhp is too much...so you should probably lower your goals

Because I NEED MORE POWAAHH

Click to expand...

With your current thinking, your more POWAAHH would likely make you SLOWAAHH.

hopefully they will post up here about their current setups.

Click to expand...

My setup would not interest you, because the car is setup for dragstrip racing and not dynoracing (ET goals versus hp goals).

You can probably hit 700 flywheel HP by simply forging the block and going with a blower, but without the rest, you will probably only enjoy about 450 of that HP.

I am beginning to plan for my engine build this winter - aiming for low 10's and around 700 RWHP, and I already have hit 20k in expected costs. That doesn't take into account I already have the blower.

Our 2010 GT demo car just made over 700 to the tires at JDM. It is a forged stroker with a Roush blower pushing 19psi. The car drives like a stocker until you put the hammer down and then it's warp speed. We ran 10.17 @ 140 on less boost last time out. The car hooks hard on UPR suspension and Hoosier drag radials.