Ford Mustang Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I removed my valve cover last night and found a piece of rubber about the size of a nickle. It looks like it curves into a cylinder type object. The piece is stamped with c7oe-d. Any idea's?
Thanks
Dan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
613 Posts
Thats the casting # for the block. wouldnt know why it would be on a piece of rubber. Unless its like the transmissions, you can tell if the fluids never been changed by the red plastic cap in the pan. They used to leave those on for installation and the dip stick would pop them off.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,345 Posts
Sure it's not just a valve seal that cracked finally and vibrated into the oil galley under the valve cover? Most were black synthetic rubber back then (C7OE indicates 1967); here are some in a different color. They're called "umbrella" seals.
Ford 11/32 valve seals 351C-M 400 OE 16 pcs | eBay

Does your piece look like a black version of one of those (or a portion thereof)? It was supposed to stay under the valve retainer and inside the spring.

C7OE and the D can bracket many different part numbers. It only mean the part is traceable to 1967, and probably the Fairlane line ("O"), and E means an engine part. All camshafts used to have 6250 in the middle (e.g., C7OE-6250-D would be a mythical camshaft).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,239 Posts
Not uncommon to find valve stem seals. One indication is on first startup when engine is cold it will smoke a little for 30 sec or so. Oil drains back into cylinder around valve stem when setting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
324 Posts
??? Part of the PCV grommet???? Maybe!! Take a pic and post it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Yes it is definitely part of a seal. The engine had been sitting for about 10 years. It does produce a blue cloud on startup and is burning some grey on idle. Is it hard to replace valve seals? Thanks for the replies.
Dan
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,345 Posts
It can be done without removing the heads, yes, but you should consider doing other things in the same vicinity. You can get a screw-in air fitting to "freeze" the valves shut in each cylinder (after positioning that cyl. at TDC). Then compress each valve spring, and battle the varnish that will resist you popping the valve retainers apart. Once successful, you can pull off old seals, press on new ones, and reassemble.

Just keep in mind that before long you may want to refresh the next weak link in the chain - worn valve guides, a bad seat seal.....or, maybe they're fine for some more years !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
237 Posts
Not too difficult to replace but time consuming. I did on my 351. Need to get a tool that goes to your compressor that pumps air into spark plug/cylinder hole to keep valve up. If I remember I needed to get a valve spring compressor also. If you do some research you'll see a number of articles on how to replace. Plus if I remember right my shop manual had it spelled out also. You should pull your pan you'll probably see them in there also. If been sitting for 10 years I'm sure they need replaced. I did this on mine and I'm defintely not a mechanic.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top