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Did the rear FRPP shocks and springs today. Lowered the rear about 1 1/8" ( see pics). Stock spring wire measures 6.32" , FRPP spring is 1/2" but has fewer coils in the area that counts.

It is a rather straight forward and easy job. Once the shocks and sway bar brackets are disconnected the rear drops enough to slip the springs right out.

You will need at least a 16" pry bar, preferably one that is angled on one end and a 8" punch. The pry bar is the help get the Panhard bar in and out, tight fit, and the punch to line up the bar on one end.

After dropping it, the rear was off by about 3 mm. Even from the factory, they are not square in the rear.

Here are some pics........
 

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The ride is firmer but not jarring, will have to get the lower control arms with the heim joint on the axle end. It still follows the road good but it is not as compliant as stock. There is less squat on accel. No additional road noise from the heim joint attached to the axle end of the Panhard Bar.


Visually, it appears to sit lower in the back, but I haven't done the fronts yet.

More pics........ and a teaser, new aluminum radiator
 

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Definately like the lowered look - more pics when fronts are done?
 

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Looks great, the panhard bar looks really stout. The factory one didn't look too bad though. The aftermarket bar has Derlin in one end and a heim joint in the other???? Who makes it again?

BTW. I like your spoiler, who makes? And really nice choice of wheels, love that look. My car is supposed to be built this week, and I pick up the full FRPP kit Tuesday if it comes in as scheduled.

CONGRATS

BC
 

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Discussion Starter #6
mustangaretuff said:
Looks great, the panhard bar looks really stout. The factory one didn't look too bad though. The aftermarket bar has Derlin in one end and a heim joint in the other???? Who makes it again?

BTW. I like your spoiler, who makes? And really nice choice of wheels, love that look. My car is supposed to be built this week, and I pick up the full FRPP kit Tuesday if it comes in as scheduled.

CONGRATS

BC
The bar is from http://powerhouse411.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_3_7&products_id=14

And they make a lower control arm as well.

The Ducktail is from Streescene. Allows third brake lite to show
http://www.musclecardirect.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=159

This one from CDC doesn't allow for the third brake light
http://www.classicdesignconcepts.com/catalog/itemdisplay/630.html


The wheels are Halibrand Cobra III I don't know if he was getting anymore because he had a bunch of sets made custom and was low when I got these. I see he has Blingz now which are cheaper.

http://www.ronaelemustang.com/index.cfm?currentpage=2&fuseaction=category.display&category_id=19
 

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I am getting a bunch of pieces from Powerhouse myself... have heard only good things. I'm looking fwd to have the rear wheels under the car again! I'm also VERY happy to get rid of the two-piece driveshaft! The rest is control arms, K-member brace, braces and brackets for the rear... oh and a DS loop for good meassure...

Prepairing for those 5,500 RPM 600 RWHP launches... :happyhapp
 

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LOL

That's the idea... change everything I think might break and then see what else granade under obuse... :rolleyes:

If I forget, I would apreciate a ride home when she blows! :tongue
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I here the upper control arm bracket is a must have on high horsepower/traction cars. It mounts with 3 bolts, 2 bottom and 1 from the top.


Edelbrock is coming out with their upper arm. I had one on my Monte and the sealed bearing is one that I haven't seen else where. A most have when driving street all the time
 

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Guys just wanted to let you know the FRPP full kit is on. Haven't really had a chance to exercise it on the track yet but on the highway it is tight and a little rough. I myself prefer the ride but others may find it to stiff. It really comes in to it's own at high speed (100 plus). Keep in mind I have only put about 35 miles on it.


I have enclosed some pics to give others an idea as to what it looks like.


Did anyone else, have a problem with the bottom hole of the strut not being machined to accept the new camber bolts? I finally figured it out as there were no directions or anything. It looks like I am going to have to machine a groove in the strut housing to use the camber botls. Otherwise they won't work.

I will give some handleing details after some more time in the seat.
 

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Ben,

Sorry, didn't get what bolts you were talking about... yes, you will have to remove some material from the strut to use the angle adjusting bolts. It's on here somwhere...

If you want it perfect (and I think you do) there is a shop here called Performance Alignment and they'll set your car up for your driving... and of cource balanced, aligned and all that...
 

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Yest I do want it perfect, do you have their phone number?

I am taking the struts off tonight so I can have a friend of mine machine them. He has lots of machining experience and while I could probably do it at home with an air grinder I want it perfect. Then i'll take it over to the aligment guys. BTW, I bought the strut bearing yesterday, 18 bucks not too bad.
 

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I wanted to give everyone an update on the full FRPP kit. I spent about 2 hours on Saturday terrorizing the backroads of Kentucky & route 18 near the river and absolutely love this car! It's handleing isn't far off the Miata and the extra horses are VERY nice.

My thoughts.

1. Handles very well and corners very flat

2. Has some adjustability that I have not played with yet but I know that I will want to tune it to grip a little more in the rear. It gets very light especially braking into a turn. I have heard from many that an adjustable third member (the top control arm in the rear, not sure of it's official name) can help this alot?

3. Quiet when every thing is installed correctly. Make sure you put on the new nuts for the front sway bar mounts, otherwise they will work themselvles loose and make a clunking noise. This may not be everyones experience but it was mine. It was the top bolt that attaches to the front struts on each side. It seems like the nylon is not stong enough to hold the bolt tight.

4. It does ride pretty rough, I don't mind it but my wife thinks it's pretty rough (personally I don't care because she doesn't drive it.)

5. I am taking it to be aligned by a performance shop as soon as the weather breaks, will give you guys spec when they are done. In the mean time anybody have a good balance between track and street?

6. Lastly, for the money, I haven't found a better kit. If you can pick it up in the Cincinnati area, the boys at Modular will hook you up for $1,049.00, no tax, no shipping, just say you live in KY.


Keep it wheels down

BC
 
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