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Discussion Starter #1
I am having lots of problems with disconnecting the subject coupling
(like so many other shade tree mechanics based on my recent research), and I think I might have the reason why. That is:"the explanation" and by no means have I found the solution to the problem. THAT---I am still searching for!
Of all the spring lock couplings on our vehicles the one that is the biggest problem is the one on the inlet to the fuel filter. When it is new and first installed: it works fine, however when the filter needs changing and is chuck full of rust, scale, or maybe even some salty water; it's a far different story. All this trash is just an inch or two away from the inlet coupling. The corrosion of the metal components plus the scoring/jamming action of any backflowed trash makes a smooth disconnect almost impossible. Surely, this coupling design was never intended for this service (normally in industry, quick-connect type couplings are only used with clean fluids). You can probably count on requiring a herculean pull to rip it apart. Upon examination, you'd likely need to replace it.
Of course, if you faithfully replace your filter every 15k miles, and are lucky enough to never get water (or salt water) in your fuel tank you may have no idea of what I am talking about.
To make matters worse, when you start the disconnect procedure using the unlocking tool, the tool itself may slightly damage the garter spring o-ring,etc, because of minor amounts of corrosion/debris in the components. This could easily result in fuel leakage, causing backflow, which then puts massive quantities of filter contents right into the coupling.
Appreciate any help, ideas, or comments you may have!

Gary C Smith
 

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Some help

One of the things I do before I change the fuel filter is get some brake cleaner and spray the couplings to get the dirt out. Then I spray some WD40 on the couplings before I use the tool.:)
 
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