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Discussion Starter #1
This has been a week long process so bare with me...

First contact: So I'm driving to work (Fort Bragg) and my commute is about 40 minutes. My CEL light is on, but that is normal because i need a tune to remove rear O2s. My car started up fine, was fine on the highway, got to a red light and started bogging down to the 500- 750 RPM range. The car started shaking and I really thought it was going to stall. Throttle was not responsive. Got to work, and ran the scanner. If I recall, this was the cylinder 1 misfire and vacuum leak.

What I did: Went home and bought cleaners. Took apart the CAI and TB. Cleaned the carbon and dirt from everything. Cleaned MAF, and every plug/ sensor I could get to in the engine bay. Sprayed some valve cleaner in the TB at idle, and sprayed TB cleaner everywhere looking for a leak. No leaks found. did see a missing valve cover bolt (passenger side near cylinder 1). I also ran a bottle of injector cleaner through a fresh tank of gas. Although this is the same place that I fueled up with before this all happened (I think)

Result: I have not gotten a misfire code, I have gotten other codes about O2 sensor heat circuits and such. The shaking is not as bad or frequent. The bogging is less intense but still happens after 20 min driving or so. It's more hit and miss (before it was every single stop at idle).

New: Although I may have just missed before, I'm noticing a stuck RPM once in a while. It hangs around 2 if I go from in gear to neutral at or around 2k RPM. If at 2500 + it will rise and hang on 3k. To fix I just place back in gear, release clutch (RPM lowers) and then back into neutral.

More testing: Through an app and wireless OBDII plug I started monitoring O2 voltage, A/F, short fuel trim etc. I noticed my bank 1 O2 volt stays very low fluctuating between 0 - .6 and occasionally hit .9. Bank 2 is at .9 - 1.7. A/F is at 14.7 (good) Short term fuel trim I noticed bank 2 goes as far as -28 when the bogging occurs. Otherwise it bounces around like bank 1 does (low positive #s) but they are never the same. ( ya bank 1 had the misfire and 2 is now pulling super rich at bog?)

On the way: New COPs, New Plugs, New replacement valve cover bolt.

Any advice is welcome. Tomorrow I'll take a look at comparing the Long fuel trims against shorts, more O2 volts, and keep an eye on fuel pressure

Mods : more than I care to list, but relative to this I have LTHs, high flow cats with new O2s, custom X pipe with electric cut offs (checked for leaks and getting BBK X soon), no FI, CAI, Axle Backs
 

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Check your O2 connections. Look for corroded pins and/or burnt extensions since you have LT's. I would go ahead a pick up a new set of NTK O2 sensors from Autozone or similar place in your area. Do not get the Bosch sensors. They heat up way too slow and will throw a "slow response" code.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I replaced the bosch O2s and saw a great improvement in driving. No sputtering yet. Still throwing P0152 for heat circuit bank 2 sensor 1...
 

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if you have the stuff, test the fuel pressure, NO NOT WITH THE SCANNER!!!! Test it at the pump, under the back seat, with a mechanical gauge.
 
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