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Fuel Pump/CCRM

2959 Views 2 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  LTNGHRSE
Got a problem and very little money...
pulled in the driveway the other day, car ran fine. Came out of the house 5 minutes later car turns but won't start, not even trying.
Cars old so did compression test; suprisingly it was 100% (lucky)
sprayed mass flow cleaner into pistons via plug port, car almost fuel pump.
turned key with gas cap removed, nothing.
climbed under car, nothing. Checked fuse in fuse box, good.
Checked inertia switch, good. Checked power to electrical in rear at tank, nothing at all.
Figure has to be CCRM.
So-after I remove fender, what then?
can I just check for clicking relay (know what one it is thanks to WWW)
or do I need to replace the whole thing and keep my fingers crossed?
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I'm assuming that YOUR car is a 1999-2004.

Confirm that all grounds are clean and tight. Especially the ones around the radiator core support.

Fuse panel layout:

Confirm there is power in/out fuse F1.26 F1.14

Confirm there is key on power in/out of fuse F2.34, F2.2, and F2.8. If no power suspect an ignition switch issue.

Confirm there is key on power in/out of fuse F2.2 and F2.8. Post the results.

At the CCRM verify there is key on power at pin #5(DG/YE), #24(RD). If no power suspect a bad CCRM.

Note, this assumes that nothing has been done to the CCRM ground as a bad/disconnected ground will also stop the CCRM from latching. You can test the ground by measuring the resistance of the BK wires and BK/WH wires back to battery negative.
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Car is 97 GT
Car turns but no fuel so nothing happens.
Checked the fuse. power is good
as far as CCRM, I can hear the relays clicking when I turn the key but haven't popped off the panel to physically check the CCRM outlets and relay itself. I could be hearing the other relays in the CCRM, don't know.
I checked the inertia switch it's down, looks good.
Checked power going to the tank at the rear electrical and nothing.
Doesn't seem like any power is getting to the pump.
Thinking problem is in between CCRM/pump relay and tank somewhere.
Isn't there an easy current test that can be performed on the CCRM to figure out if it's the relay itself or the CCRM?
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