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Discussion Starter #1
So I have a brand new gas tank from CJ-P-Parts that came with the fuel sending unit. I used what came with it to replace my extremely old tank that was full with what looked like tar and the OEM sending unit was rusted out. I didn't think anything of it to use the one that came with the new tank but I think it's not working due to it's cheap quality or defectiveness. It currently will read correct when full but as it gets just below half it drops off and shows empty. when I go the the station to fill up I can only put in about 10gal. So... 5 - 6 gallons are not accounted for that the sender is not indicating..

I then starting reading on the net that many others had problems with repro sending units and of course ALL say to use the OE stock... try to find NOS online only to conclude that it costs an arm and a leg to purchase..... even old OE that is cleaned up cost $70 and that's all pitted and no guarantee...

So I've looked at the Dorman 692-156, the Scott Drake (version repro) of the OE C8ZZ-9275-C which I'm pretty sure what I have now that doesn't work well..
Beside spending $150 or more on NOS is there anything out there that is GOOD quality and will last.. I'm not looking for original.. I'm looking for what is accurate and reliable...

suggestions?
 

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You already have covered all the bases. No one I know of is satisfied with ANY reproduction fuel sending unit. If you can't bring yourself to buy a good used or NOS unit (best solutions) then get a better reproduction and test it before you install it. Their are several topics on the VMF that deal with the testing procedure.

Z
 

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I am surprised you can even find an NOS sender today. And finding a used one that works is iffy. I have a genuine factory one I will sell you; hopefully you won't find out it doesn't work until after I cash your check. :)

I have a Scott Drake sender repro I bought from VCM which is a fairly decent one. Even then, it will not work correctly out of the box without some adjustments of the float arm. When correctly adjusted it has an active range of about 13 gallons compared to 14 for a factory gauge. Its not as accurate as a factory one because of the way they made the winding but its a lot better than what you report. Yours may just need some major adjustment of the sender arm?

I suppose VCM is still selling the same one. When I ordered mine they told me it was the 'best' one they sell and also with the factory correct 5/16" pipe on it. I am not saying its great; its usable and I don't know of anything better that isn't 50 years old. Others at AFM over the years have thought they found a better one but the final report has always been...never mind, that one doesn't work very well either.

65-67 FUEL SENDING UNIT-STAINLESS STEEL WITH BRASS FLOAT-BEST QUALITY-5/16 INCH INLET

Adjusted the best possible that one reads E with about 3 gallons left in the tank. Even the Ford sender read E with about 2 gallons left; they didn't want you to blame them for running out of gas. But the Ford sender made the needle move further with each quart near E than do the repros. That means the Ford sender was actually less accurate near E but it was more useful since E is the reading that concerns everyone. Once its correctly adjusted you get used to the fact that E is not really empty. The gauge is still working even after the needle moves slowly below E.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the input. I was looking on ebay at the NOS and it is really hard to drop more than a $150 for a used item that has no guarantee and that's the cheap one.. over $300 for others. Cracks me up when they list is as a "Shelby" or "Boss" gas tank sender unit and list for even MORE money... it's the same part ford part number stamped on there.
I decided to purchase a Dorman stainless steel / brass float replacement 3/8.. it's a modded V8. Dorman has been around forever and it looked like a good item that I would be able to work with if it's not perfect. I'm already expecting it to need adjustment so will tackle this NOT assuming it's a direct replacement with no worries.
What I like about Dorman is the metal looks sturdy, not flimsy like some others, no plastic or material that looks like gas (ethanol) would rot it.
And Dorman actually lists it's specs for ohms. No one else does that. so I have a baseline to start with for getting this thing to work.
Only thing I really care about is that I KNOW when I'm almost out of gas, down to the last couple gallons. If I can get it to register that, I'll be happy. anything else is bonus.
 

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Let us know how it works out. More information is always better than less.

The total range of Ohms was correct for the SD one I have. Its just that those Ohms vs gallons were not exactly the same as the ones Ford used. It depends upon how you wind the little wires inside. Ford did the winding in a more complicated, i.e. more expensive, way with the wire spacing varying gradually from one end to the other. That was too much trouble for the repro guys.
 

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I agree with Ivy, please let us know how it works out. I've tried Scott Drake and Spectra Premium sending units and both were off.
 

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suggestion

Here are the resistance in Ohms of the original 65 sending unit.
Maybe you can bend the rod of the sending unit and get close to these numbers on your dial will read correctly.


Resistance in ohms----- Dial
78 ohms lower side of E
65 -----------------------------EMPTY
39 -----------------------------1/4
24 -----------------------------1/2
15 -----------------------------3/4
10 -------- --------------------FULL


DISCONNECT BATTERY, and use ohm meter on the sending unit to measure.
Hope this Helps, Joe
 
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