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Discussion Starter #1
Having problems getting my 66 289 going. Was running halfway decent a little while ago, and then it cut-out on me. Started a couple more times, and then nothing. It appears that plenty of gas is getting to the carb, but maybe no spark. When I disconnect the coil wire from the distributor cap, and try to ground it against a bolt, I can't see any spark jumping from the end of the wire. Before I go and invest in a new coil, I'd prefer to KNOW that is the problem. Talked to a friend, and he said to check the points. I'll do that, but is there a way to 'test' a coil? A new one is not that much, but my budget for 'hobby' repairs is kind of thin right now. Any ideas?
 

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Before you suspect the coil, make sure you have voltage going to the coil from the ignition switch. Check voltage at the "+" post of coil while cranking to determine if you have a low voltage or no voltage problem. I recently fought similar pronlem - same year and engine - to find that my original ignition switch had gone bad.
 

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Can't you run a wire from the positive side of your battery to the positive side of the coil? I'm no mechanic but that's how I use to hot wire cars in the old days.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, I don't know about all that, but I put a volt meter on it. I get a full 12 volts at the starter solenoid. When I take the coil wire loose at the distributor cap, I get about 8.4 volts at the end of that wire. When I test the end of the spark plug leads, I don't detect anything. So that means it's somewhere twixt the coil, and the end of the plug wires. I lightly sanded my points hoping there was a slight bit of corrosion or something. No results though.
 

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Unless you have a special meter you won't be able to check the voltage at the distributor, it will be 1000s of volts if the coil is good. Safer to check the primary or 12 volt side of the coil first as Lib said before. I just replaced the neutral/reverse switch on my c-4. Since then I'm in the same boat. I have 12 volts at the coil but I think I may have left the ignition switch in the on position too long without running the engine. I have a pertronix coil and igniter, and since this problem arose I checked their website and it warned about this. Sooo, here I am waiting for my new coil.
Long in short- check your ignition switch and the neutral/reverse switch first.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Checked voltage at the coil. Not sure which is the '+' side. Embarrased to admit it, but oh well. I have a 'batt' side, and the other side isn't labelled. On one side I got about 8.5 volts while cranking, and .35 at the other side. Not sure what any of this diagnosis means. Can someone enlighten me? Thanks.
 

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I had to replace my coil when I first got my car. It had a full 12 running to the coil and it ruined the coil, so I found out the hard way that I had to have a resistor to lower the voltage to the coil. The resistor only cost a couple bucks from Autozone, but the new coil fixed the problem of little to no spark and works well with the resistor in place.
 

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8.5v at the positive coil post is a little low while cranking. You should also check the voltage at the positive coil post when ignition switch is in the run position. You should have anywhere from 6-8 volts at that time.

When you try to start the engine, will it momentarily fire, but not continue to run?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No, it just won't run period. It's almost like it's flooding, but I just can't tell if I'm getting any spark. Also had problems with a fuel delivery problem, so I don't know if maybe now I'm getting too much fuel. Trying to concentrate on the spark first. Can't tell enough about that. So do I turn the key on, and then check voltage at the coil?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I also can't tell if I'm getting spark down to the plugs. Not quite sure how to check that. I took a timing light, and attached to one of the plug wires. Couldn't get a light to come on. Isn't that a good sign of no spark?
 

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Hello.:) The timing light is an excellent way to tell if you have spark on that plug wire. If you have nothing on that one, and, the car doesn't seem to be firing, then it's a pretty safe bet that none of the other plug wires have spark either.The post that's marked 'BAT' is the positive side. The other one should be marked something like 'DIST'. With the key in the on position you should have about 9V at the positive side. You can take your coil to just about any major auto parts chain store, like autozone, and they will check the coil for free. If the coil checks out ok, then you're down to points, rotor, condensor or distributor cap. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, I don't know. Maybe it's looking like the points. I took a file, and gently filed down the points. After I tried it this time, it fired a couple times like it was trying to start. Didn't fire up, and run like a top, but the cough of the engine has me motivated. Need a little help. What's the condensor? I've identified most of the parts, but the condensor eludes me. You don't mean the capacitor right?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hello again. SUCCESS!! Well kind of. I took my pocket knife, and scraped the leads at each one of the spots on the distributor cap, twixt the points, and the rotor. Viola..got it to run for a few minutes. I took this as a big success, and an indication that I need to start with replacing the parts suggested. I think I'll hold off on the coil for now, but thanks for all your help.
 

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Hey, it's me again. Good to see that you're up and running again, but for me, I put the new coil in and still no spark. It seems like I'm just changing parts hoping that sooner or later the problem will go away and I'll be able to drive off into the sunset. The way I figure the only thing left is the igniter. Otherwise I'm stumped. Are there any suggestions, before I drop another $100 or so, that maybe I've overlooked to check the igniter or other probable culprit? :headscratch:

Anxious to make it to sunset
 
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