Ford Mustang Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a few questions
1990 GT with AOD

My motor is in the car. It is jacked up on 2 2x4's between the motor and the mounts. They are laying so the motor is up about 2" higher. I have the oil pan out, but it was a pain in the rear getting it out.

1. I put my Canton girdle on last night. Will I be able to get my oil pan back in?

2. I have a Canton Windage Tray that I can't figure out how it goes in. I did not find any hardware for mounting it. How does it go in and does it work with the girdle?

I attached the pictures of the girdle and windage tray I bought.

thank you in advance

Aaron
 

Attachments

·
Banned
Joined
·
7,170 Posts
the tray bolts to the main cap bolts/studs. this is normally done with the engine out, i don't believe you will get the pan back on after you add the combo.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,170 Posts
He might as well pull the engine now....

Never would i trust torquing everything the way he is doing it.....:no:
I agree 100% to the 5th power. Not to mention girdles have been known to affect main cap alignment. Thus the reason for align honing with the girdle on if you are using a girdle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,170 Posts
There is the right way, and then there is everything else........

The two dont Co-incide
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
DOH!!

They really need better instructions on these parts or in the descriptions of them.

You live and learn. Lucky for me this is not a vehicle that I count on for transportation.

So to clarify. The caps never came off. When I pulled the bolts they stayed in place. Why does it matter which way the motor was sitting when I torqued the bolts. Is it the possibility of the weight on the caps screwing with the reading?

Anyway. I have a friend coming over that convinced me this morning to pull the motor and transmission. Afterwards I'm gonna clean and paint the undercarriage. He is a mechanic and used to build race motors on the side. Hopefully he has enough time to help me get this thing done right within the year.

I think his quote was "Don't get in a hurry to break your new parts." I like that saying.

Anyway thanks for the advise wish I would have asked before I dove into it.

Aaron.

PS.

Since everything is coming out what else should I do down there.

This is the parts list I have so far

Upper/Lower control arms
Bushing Kit
Shocks/Springs
Complete exhaust
AFR 185's (push rods & lifters)
Trick Flow Upper and Lower
E303 cam
Water Pump
Alternator
Pulleys
CAI (new mass air and 24lbs injectors)
255 lph fuel pump
Electric fan and aluminum 3 row radiator
Timing Chain
Shift Kit for AOD (w/larger pan)
Torque Box reinforcement plates
CD Player
All new speakers

On my wish list
347 stroker kit
Kenny Bell supercharger

Anyone have a Kenny Bell because I am leaning towards a positive displacement S/C and I would like their opinions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46,020 Posts
That's the best thing to do is to pull it out. Your guess about the weight being on the caps affecting the torque reading is right. When torquing, you cannot have any resistance like the weight of a crank and 8 rods would put on them.

What pan are you going to be using? If it's a stock pan, then you're most likely going to have a problem with it going back on. You'll need an aftermarket pan to clear he girdle.
The windage tray should bolt onto the girdle itself, do you see any screw holes?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Not sure the pan probably a Canton 7 quart. The only reason I didnt buy one already was that I didn't think I could get it on with the motor in the car.

I am leaning towards a tubular k member and a arms since the motor is going to be out. Anyone have pros and cons for this.
 
R

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Not sure the pan probably a Canton 7 quart. The only reason I didnt buy one already was that I didn't think I could get it on with the motor in the car.

I am leaning towards a tubular k member and a arms since the motor is going to be out. Anyone have pros and cons for this.
if the car is not a dd driver i say go for the K-member......:bigthumbsup
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,170 Posts
if the car is not a dd driver i say go for the K-member......:bigthumbsup
Daily driver???? For the next few days it aint, or shouldnt until the main cap situation gets took care off.:headscratch::bigthumbsup:wavey:gringreen :gringreen :happyhappThese are my People!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
The car has never been a daily driver. It has always been 3rd string behind my work car and Yukon.

Why would you say if it is not a daily driver? The time of install or that it will not hold up?

The girdle and windage tray were for the future supercharger I was planning on adding.

The motor is being pulled. While we clean and paint the undercarriage and engine compartment. More than likely the motor will be rebuilt along with the transmission since it will be out.

I read a post where someone rebuilt their AOD. I bought the video on rebuilding it and it looked straight forward. Anyone who rebuilt one if you tell me what problems you encountered while doing it or special tools you had to buy I would appreciate it.

I follow instructions well. When there is a lack of instruction or conflicting directions is where I get myself into trouble.

The vehicle was sitting at my old house in Pennsylvania for 10 years after I moved to Louisiana. I went and got it 2 years ago and drove it down. It then sat under the carport for a few months. I bought a trick flow manifold for it. When I got the manifold off I realized how close I was to just replacing the heads. The project just kind of snow balled from there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,170 Posts
Most things are pretty straight forward. Its the bearing clearances that are crucial. The proper way is to use a Dial Bore gauge and Dial calipers. Some use plastigauge, I use the feeler gauge method I picked up from a local engine builder on another site. Its not as accurate as the Bore gauge, but it seems to have worked for me so far.

CAM bearing installation will require a special tool, and depending on how many times you are gonna use it, it might be cheaper to have them installed at a machine shop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
CAM bearing installation will require a special tool, and depending on how many times you are gonna use it, it might be cheaper to have them installed at a machine shop.
Are you talking about the motor or the transmission? I have a video on rebuilding both. I have a friend who happens to be a mechanic who is going to help me with the motor. He has never worked on a transmission and I was seeking advise on possibly rebuilding my AOD.

But, I do appreciate any advise on the motor building too. He knows a shop that does quality work and said to let them install the cam bearings. He said they would clean the block, bore (if necessary), hone and check the decks and mill accordingly.

I'm hoping to be driving by the end of summer. But, I am going to make sure everything is finished first. I don't want to drive around in a half assed car, because I couldnt wait. If I start that I will never finish.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
7,170 Posts
other than not having enough room there was nothing wrong with doing it from underneath. the engine and bolts do not know which way they are pointing. i have done many bottom ends without pulling the engine. how many top fuel and funny car engines are done this way every weekend??? :bigthumbsup
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top