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Discussion Starter #1
Ok i have recently ordered alot of body parts and i want to see if you guys think im getting a good price for the installs.

2005-09 Mustang Roush 1/4 Window Louver Kit - Pre Painted- $5

2005-09 Mustang Roush White Windsheild Decal- Free

2005-09 Mustang GT Roush Body Kit - Pre Painted- $200

275/40/18 Cooper ZEON 2XS Tire- Balanced for $10 a wheel, and installed for free
2005-08 Mustang GT Roush Trak Pak 18x10 Forged Painted Wheel

2005-09 Mustang Roush Cast Exhaust Tip (RH)-
2005-08 Mustang Roush Cast Exhaust Tip (LH)-
$20 a tip because they have to do quite a bit of modifications to the pypes exhaust to get it to fit

2005-08 Mustang Steeda Sport Springs- $150

5% window tint/ + Stripping old tint- $200



Does this all seem like fair prices, this is also mostlikley the best autoshop in the state of indiana.

Sinister Autosports
 

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Honestly, it seems like you are ripping them off with those prices. That sounds like one heck of a deal!!! And i love the Roush body kit, has to be my favorite S197 one :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yea, they are wonderful to, they installed my 15" t3 tssn subwoofer, and im cranking 10,000 wats out of that. I actually shattered a window in my garage with it, and then it exploded, they fixed it within the next 2 days absolutley free.
 

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yea, they are wonderful to, they installed my 15" t3 tssn subwoofer, and im cranking 10,000 wats out of that. I actually shattered a window in my garage with it, and then it exploded, they fixed it within the next 2 days absolutley free.
Doesn't that hurt your ears?


And are you going to do performance mods after you finish with all the body work?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Doesn't that hurt your ears?


And are you going to do performance mods after you finish with all the body work?

as for hurting my ears, well lets just say i have to keep the bass on 1/10 it also has an off switch for the sub i cant stand it all the time, the only time i turn it all the way up is when im out of the car. But i really have gotten used to the really loud sound, the first time i heard it i just about **** myself. i was laughing so hard when i saw the trunk pop open from the sub.

As for performance mods, im actually talking with them right now, they said for right around $1000 they would be happy to start building a twin turbo set up on the car, of course id have to pay for the parts. That would start right around feburary. But it would pay off, because they said they could pull an estimated 500 rwhp through it, but i would also need to get a 8.8 rear end a drive shaft, and some other supporting mods. But i do believe i am going to do that in the near future.
 

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I'd go for everything but the tint.

I have to agree that it sounds like you're ripping them off. :D Places around here are charging $600 (parts included) just for Eibach lowering springs. :so $150 install plus $200-250 parts is a steal.

Why are you changing your exhaust tips? Is there something wrong with the Pypes ones? :headscratch:

Tell me more about your subwoofer. I'm assuming that you made a typo in saying that its putting out 10,000 watts... :scratchchin
 

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I didn't see any of the parts you listed on their website, did you special order everything?:headscratch:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i ordered all the parts, that is just for the installs, and im changing the tips of the pypes exhaust because the roush rear facias that comes with the bodykit has the square exhaust exits, so circular tips coming out of that would look like complete ****. I really want the %5 window tint i think it would just finish off the car, all white with real dark windows looks sick in my opinion
 

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Discussion Starter #11
and it is defintly 10,000 watts some of there speakers at t3 are rated at 16,000 wats, i have 4 amps and a car battery powering it, 2 amps are attached to the back of the backseats, and the other 2 are in the spare tire compartment along with the car battery.
 

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Ah, now I understand about the tips. That should have dawned on me before... :)

What size wire are you running with that bass setup? If it is indeed 10,000 watts peak then you're pulling close to 700 amps at peak. Thats a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i am running a 4 guage wire threw it
 

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10,000 watts peak would mean somewhere around 2,000-2,500 watts RMS. With that kind of power, i'd recommend upgrading to at least a 2 gauge wire if not a #1. Otherwise you might end up with adverse side effects like the wires heating up or burning and/or your amps failing.

You'll also never see the full potential of that kind of power without proper wiring. Chances are, though, that you won't see peak numbers, even with 2 batteries powering it. I believe that the cranking amps for a car battery are something like 100, which would probably be its highest output. At that rate you're looking at needing at least 4-5 batteries to see peak numbers.

What size fuse are you running on your 4 gauge power wire?
 

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for 1 your amp wiring is way way too small im not familiar with that amp but i do know on my kicker 2500.1 i had to run a minimum of 0 gauge and that was with a true 2500 rms amp ( actually 2729 tested ) , secondly id start looking into capacitors there's no way they are getting their full potential ( if really that high rms ) just with 2 batteries , also the fuses on the amp will tell you what it it really pushes because only so many watts can be pushed through a fuse 15amp=xx 30amp=zz ect. , i used to do installs for a good while and i can tell you your best bet for powering options would be to go with kinetic batteries and run a large tsunami cap also upgrade all the 4g to 0 or better just my 2cents
 

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for 1 your amp wiring is way way too small im not familiar with that amp but i do know on my kicker 2500.1 i had to run a minimum of 0 gauge and that was with a true 2500 rms amp ( actually 2729 tested ) , secondly id start looking into capacitors there's no way they are getting their full potential ( if really that high rms ) just with 2 batteries , also the fuses on the amp will tell you what it it really pushes because only so many watts can be pushed through a fuse 15amp=xx 30amp=zz ect. , i used to do installs for a good while and i can tell you your best bet for powering options would be to go with kinetic batteries and run a large tsunami cap also upgrade all the 4g to 0 or better just my 2cents
Thats exactly my point, with wiring that small you're not getting but maybe 25% of its total peak potential. On top of which, pushing that much amperage through such a small gauge wire (for the application anyway) can create heat in the wire and the possibility of a fire.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
there is more then 1 wire running to the whole system, i dont quite know the exact setup, ill have to ask them but im getting every bit of 10,000 watts out of it.
 

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there is more then 1 wire running to the whole system, i dont quite know the exact setup, ill have to ask them but im getting every bit of 10,000 watts out of it.
Of course there's more than one.. Power, ground, remote, RCA's (signal).

We're only talking about the power and ground wires in this case. Its kind of funny that you've got 4 amps running a single sub. It's pretty common to run several subs off a single amp, but fairly uncommon to run a single speaker off several amps.

I still laugh when I think 10,000 watts... I still can't get used to everyone referring to peak wattage. :nogrinner
 

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Discussion Starter #19
peak watage on the sub is defintly 17,000 not 10,000
 
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