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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a good supercharger to buy for a v-6 I would like a little more horspower. Any help would be awesome.
thanks
Zach
 

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The X is a good choice unless your a horsepower junkie.
 

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I thought that the x-charger was the only supercharger for the V6.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks for all the help. now my next question is would this affect my exhaust and would it change my sound of my exhaust? lastly do you guys think this would be worth the money.
thanks again
Zach
 

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most def worth the money. you may not want axle busting power...you may be a daily driver. i dunno...but ranging in different size belts....you can change your boost pressure from 7-8psi 3.0 belt(270hp or so) to 9-10psi 2.8 belt(280-300hp) to the new 11.5+ 2.6belt(300hp+...with the soon to be released intercooled x charger).my opinion, wait for the intercooled one to come out for sale. wont be long and with lower engine temps and cooler air...you can run a lot more efficient and keep your motor safe. THE BIG DAWBACK....theres a lot of stuff thats *reccomended* before you bolt on all that power. youre looking at new gears, trac lock(if you dont get that youll spin one tire forever, end up buying a new right rear every month), you could knock those both out with one stone and get an 8.8 rear end with your desired gear set and trac lock already installed(cost about 300$ more than beefin up the 7.5 rear end) lcas and uca is optional, for added chassis strength subframe connectors(optional), aluminum ds, and youll need a tuner for all your tunes also.(that is a must have, but u can buy the x with a tuner in a package) if you have any more ?s or concerns feel free to pm me or keep asking on this thread. for your exhaust ?, you dont have to get a new one...but usually when u plan on stuffing more air into your engine, gotta get it out of there more efficiently.
 

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most def worth the money. you may not want axle busting power...you may be a daily driver. i dunno...but ranging in different size belts....you can change your boost pressure from 7-8psi 3.0 belt(270hp or so) to 9-10psi 2.8 belt(280-300hp) to the new 11.5+ 2.6belt(300hp+...with the soon to be released intercooled x charger).my opinion, wait for the intercooled one to come out for sale. wont be long and with lower engine temps and cooler air...you can run a lot more efficient and keep your motor safe. THE BIG DAWBACK....theres a lot of stuff thats *reccomended* before you bolt on all that power. youre looking at new gears, trac lock(if you dont get that youll spin one tire forever, end up buying a new right rear every month), you could knock those both out with one stone and get an 8.8 rear end with your desired gear set and trac lock already installed(cost about 300$ more than beefin up the 7.5 rear end) lcas and uca is optional, for added chassis strength subframe connectors(optional), aluminum ds, and youll need a tuner for all your tunes also.(that is a must have, but u can buy the x with a tuner in a package) if you have any more ?s or concerns feel free to pm me or keep asking on this thread. for your exhaust ?, you dont have to get a new one...but usually when u plan on stuffing more air into your engine, gotta get it out of there more efficiently.
3.0,2.8 & 2.6 are pulley sizes NOT belt sizes. You do not need subframe connectors.
 

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HA, my bad. i have no clue why i put belt. it was late
 

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Discussion Starter #11
so i need to beef up my rear axle and my six is a auto so do i still need gears?
 

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so i need to beef up my rear axle and my six is a auto so do i still need gears?
Whether your auto or manual I don't believe they are required. Though you are going to want a tloc so you might as well change the gears at the same time.

The gears aren't the expensive part. The install for a tloc is what the expensive part. Since they will be paying someone to install the tloc anyways, you might as well have them change the gears at the same time to save some extra money incase you plan to change them later.

I personally would change my gears if you are getting a tloc anyways.
 

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its honestly in my opinion a better choice to go with the 8.8 that already has your desired gear set and lock. it will run you about 3-400$ more, but you get a stronger axle and a guaranteed no whine. with gear and lock install..there is always a chance something might make some noise. some guys live with it, others cant. just depends on your shop guy. the subframe connectors are just a safe and relatively(for the 05+models anyway) inexpensive way to stiffen your car up and reduce and body "twist". if youre going to constantly be launching hard...your mustangs body will tend to twist..sometimes causing wrinkles in the finish, paint, and even dents. i have not seen it on v6's, but i have seen it on GT's that push slightly higher numbers. its notorious for older stangs. just from what i have seen, im going to play it safe and keep my baby looking good and performing at its best
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If I do not get the 5.0 I think I will buy the super charger. So I need a 8.8 rear end and 3.73 gears. anything else. with my tune right now can a just download another tune to add the 8.8 gears and charger to what is already there?
 

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you can change your gear ratio within the tune u already have. return to stock...select your tune again...go into user adjustment options and change your gear ratio to 3:73 and let it do the rest. no problem! :bigthumbsup also...some might suggest an aluminum drive shaft. again its not required its just good to have. could be something u get before or after the s/c.
 

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I have the Xcharger with the automatic. I put it on last in a series of upgrades in search of power. Started with a CAi and tune,headers,dual exhausts,LCAs',Aluminum D/S,Tloc and 3:73's(in the stock rear end)and Xcharger. I have been to the strip last year and ran in the high 13's and driven the Same car Across America with The Mustangs Across America Group.
Maybe I have been lucky or not but never a problem with the rear end.
I have a new Tru Fiber Hood and GT rotors up front
I have front brakes for purported better stopping,havent realy noticed a change..
Next and LAST is a cooling mist wetx injection.

sooo if I were you I would just get the xcharger 1st. See how things go and replace or up grade as needed. All these other goodies are just icing on the cake.

but it is better to lay dow two 100' strips of rubber than one:)
 

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sooo if I were you I would just get the xcharger 1st. See how things go and replace or up grade as needed. All these other goodies are just icing on the cake.

but it is better to lay dow two 100' strips of rubber than one:)
couldnt have said it any better. the best i got out of my 8.8 is feelin it wash out from underneath you when u launch hard...you dont get that with an open diff. i was at the track last night...with everything i have now...ran a 15.3(but my r/t was .6...oops) and out ran a mach 1 to the 60ft. i guess its nothing to brag about, i gotta work on my launches and tree timing, but im gettin there. i ran 16.4 completely stock :headscratch: so i guess iv dropped a whole second on bolt ons. still was dissapointed with the 15.3 and ordered an aluminum DS soon as i got home so i could really start pooling money for the X. im ready to rock now tho...just gonna sit on every ounce of money that i can till i have enough saved to buy it. my goal is 12's by the time im done.
 

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If you're more budget conscious (who isn't these days) the Vortech kit is a good option. But if you do get it, and especially if you already have a handheld programmer, get the tuner version of the kit. It's considerably cheaper, you just buy the 39LB fuel injectors separately. This is my advice because I got the full kit that came with a Diablo Predator and Vortech tune. The worthless Vortech tune is long gone and the Diablo is a doorstop:so Spend the money on a dyno tune or a VMP email tune, you'll be much happier.

As far as driving experience I'll tell you the Vortech will probably not come into play on your morning commute (unless you have a seriously heavy foot) and for that reason fuel economy isn't really affected. The non-intercooled kit has a stock 8 PSI boost level, think of it as gaining 80 top-end horsepower without really any increased low-end torque. For that reason your engine might live longer than it would with the X-Charger.

That's my 2 cents. Now give them back, I need money for laundry :D
 

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This may be a silly question but does this work on an automatic? :D
Works fine on an automatic. The first 3 X-Charger installs were all automatics (mine was #004 and the first manual) Plenty X-cars since are autos (I'd bet they outnumber manuals by a fair bit.

Either will work with the "X" (or other supercharger setups)
 
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