Gt Rear

05 still had the 7.5 inch rear. Not the 8.8. My 7.5 had 3.23s? Through and auto. The GTs 8.8 are 3.55s.
With that said I did a tlock and 4.10s. And I still have them in my mustang now. But I do have the GT rear at the garage just in case. From what I've read the 7.5 with a posi will hold 350 hp. Some break before 350 some after. Depends on the install.
Food for thought. The monster miatas use an ls1(and Ford 302) with a Ford 7.5.


35th Anni. Laser Red 3.8 coupe
ET: 1/8-9.892 @71.57 ET: 1/4-15.452 @88.06
4.6 stick ETs coming Sept 12th

98 Ranger XLT 4x4 Oxford White 3.0 M/T

I'm running a 7.5 T-Lok. I bought it lightly used, and it's worked awesome. Obviously an 8.8 is much more desirable, especially if you plan on big power. I know if I ran slicks or sticky enough tires now I could break my 7.5.

And to clear it up, your 7.5 is going to have 3.31s, not 3.23s. 8.8s came with mostly 3.55s. If you make the switch to an 8.8 there's a cobra adapter I believe? Idk where I'm pulling that from but I'll try to find a link for you..

The 2011+ rear end (both V6 and V8) has the correct flange to mount to the 2055-10 V6 driveshaft and is a direct swap. If you get a V8 rear end from 2005-10 cars then you need the cobra flange.

As far as gears, the 7.5 came with 3.31 and the 8.8 from 2005-10 could come from the factory with 3.31 with 3.55 and 3.73 as optional set ups. If it is a 2001+ it could have 2.73 or 3.31 or 3.55 from the factory. I don't recall now if the 3.73 was an option on the 2011+ models.

It doesn't take much to break the 7.5" rear end. Worst modding decision I made, and the most expensive, was to try to build a 7.5 to take the abuse. I put the tlok, 3.73's, and LPW girdle on it to strengthen it. All it took after spending all that was a set of drag radials, tune, and CAI to bend the supposedly indestructible Richmond pinion on the gear set. Picked up an 8.8" and swapped it for less than what it cost to build the 7.5.