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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

I'm having a 5.0 HO built to replace my 289 in my 1967 Coupe and I'm in the market for some heads. I came across these heads on ebay:

Remanufactured Ford 302 5.0 Cobra GT40 Cylinder Heads | eBay

My question is: Will these bolt right on to my build? I'm going with the roller cam obviously and my shop was planning on installing some stock E7TE heads that are brand new. But I would rather have the GT40 Cobra heads. I just want to make sure I'll be able to use these before I throw my money into them. Thoughts?
 

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yes, they will bolt right on; they're 5.0 heads. It's what I run on mine, except I have aluminum roller rockers, bronze valve guides, and 3 angle valve cuts.

They are also stock heads, just a better flowing head with bigger valves (I'm guessing; I don't know the valve sizes on your other heads). They're found on 93 Cobras and Explorers in the later 90's, 95-97 I believe. Only marginally second to the GT40p heads, they're arguably one of the best cast iron heads Ford made.

It depends how nuts you're ready to go. i can tell you've already started down that road and it only gets worse. Because now for only $250 MORE YOU CAN GET SOMETHING EVEN BETTER! :smartass:

Like these Edelbrock E-street aluminum heads.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Edelbrock-5025-Ford-E-Street-Cylinder-Heads-SBF-60CC-Pair-2-02-Intake-Valves-/180779734881?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2a174fd761
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yes, they will bolt right on; they're 5.0 heads. It's what I run on mine, except I have aluminum roller rockers, bronze valve guides, and 3 angle valve cuts.

They are also stock heads, just a better flowing head with bigger valves (I'm guessing; I don't know the valve sizes on your other heads). They're found on 93 Cobras and Explorers in the later 90's, 95-97 I believe.
Lizer, you are always there with the answers :) You're hired. So I don't need to worry about clearance or how my rockers are mounted or anything?
 

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You always have to worry about clearance, but your machinist should check piston to valve clearance when he assembles the block.

These heads require pedestal mount rockers, with a 1.6 ratio. You will not be able to use the rockers from your 289 on it as those are stud mount.

They're a 5.0 head. You have a 5.0 block. They will work, and very well at that.

I also edited my previous post with a link while you were responding to it.
 

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You always have to worry about clearance, but your machinist should check piston to valve clearance when he assembles the block.

These heads require pedestal mount rockers, with a 1.6 ratio. You will not be able to use the rockers from your 289 on it as those are stud mount.

They're a 5.0 head. You have a 5.0 block. They will work, and very well at that.

I also edited my previous post with a link while you were responding to it.
Ahhh well, $250 I don't have. I can get these for a little less than what they shop was going to charge me for stock. So I figure it's a wash. And I just bought them! Hope they work. Otherwise I'll be selling some nice GT40 Cobra heads in the next few weeks....

He isn't reusing my 289 rockers. He is getting everything internal new. So I'd imagine he is planning on just going with whatever was stock for a 5.0 HO with roller cam. So as long as those GT40's will bolt onto a 5.0 HO stock engine... I'll be set!
 

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What exactly is it that you're so afraid of them not bolting on? They're a 302 head.. Not only would they bolt on to a 302, but they'd also bolt on to a 289 and also bolt on to a 351W. Doesn't mean they'd be most ideal for those other motors but they'd still bolt on. If I'm wrong about the 351 someone will chime in.

This isn't magic. Many of the parts on several different engines Ford makes, that span the decades for that matter, are interchangeable.

If there's anything I think you're doing wrong in the process is your lack of research before you started. The engine requires lots of research and strategic planning. You'll probably have some realizations later for things you wished you did differently this time around.
 

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What exactly is it that you're so afraid of them not bolting on? They're a 302 head.. Not only would they bolt on to a 302, but they'd also bolt on to a 289 and also bolt on to a 351W. Doesn't mean they'd be most ideal for those other motors but they'd still bolt on. If I'm wrong about the 351 someone will chime in.

This isn't magic. Many of the parts on several different engines Ford makes, that span the decades for that matter, are interchangeable.

If there's anything I think you're doing wrong in the process is your lack of research before you started. The engine requires lots of research and strategic planning. You'll probably have some realizations later for things you wished you did differently this time around.
Oh I can tell you right now that I didn't do enough research. I wasn't sure what I was getting into. But I've been doing a ton of research since then. I've never done this level of mechanical work before in my life. I'm learning as I go. I couldn't have even told you how a transmission worked before this all started. I sure can now! I'm sure there will be plenty that I wish I could have done differently when it's all said and done, but that's going to be part of the adventure.

And the reason I had concern was because a number of posts I have read talk about how some pistons are flat topped and some are curved and how there are pedestal or stud mount rockers, etc. And I honestly still don't quite understand how the upper part of an engine works... trying to figure that out still. :) But I'll get there. Part of the reason I wanted to do this project was to learn. Everyone said I was crazy for doing it, but I'm the type of person that if I want to do something, I do it. I don't let not knowing how stop me.
 

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Hi all, I am new to the forum and just recently bought a 1967 coupe as well. I have been following a couple of the threads begun by EatSleepPlay and have gotten some great insight. Thanks everyone! I am just getting ready to pull the old 289 engine out of my project to start work on the engine bay. All of the posts in this thread have gotten me thinking about what to do with my engine. I have plenty of time on my side doing the restoration and Lizer's comment on doing research on what to put in really hit home. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions on resources to begin my research. For some background on my project I am wanting to build up a weekend cruiser, pretty stock, but I am not strictly restoring to original either. I like the idea of the '85 5.0l crate motor mentioned earlier, but I don't want or need to rush right out and do anything yet. I plan to get the body and paint done as well as add power front disc breaks before getting a new motor. Any guidance those of you who have done this before can give me would be much appreciated. I really want to do it right especially when it comes to putting in the right motor.


Sent from my Autoguide iPad app
 

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I would start your own thread with the idea of what you just said here. It won't hijack the current thread, and it will get more traffic to your question as well.
 

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If this is a 1986 5.0 HO engine with the original "Flat Top" pistons, be aware of the fact that there are no valve clearance "Eyebrows" cut into the pistons, most performance heads and camshafts will not work. The valves will hit the pistons. The pistons will have to be replaced.

Again, this was only on the 1986 5.0. The heads, (E6), were unique for this year also and make excellent boat anchors. I guess it could be said that 1986 was one of Ford's experimental years.

I installed a Ford Racing crate 5.0 into my 67 before it was popular to do so. This was 18 years ago. Information was hard to find and the internet was kind of new with little on there about Hot Rodding Mustangs. When you could find technical info, a lot of times it was wrong. I studied anything I could find for about a year before I started buying parts. I decided to buy one of the new, then, crate engines. A Ford 5.0 with the Cast Iron GT40 heads. I think that these heads are fine for a fun street machine. I'm still pleased with them after all of this time. The engine runs strong. Lets face it, there's only so much that can be done on the street and still keep yourself out of jail and your car still in your garage.

One last thing about the 5.0 engine. Don't forget that the balance factor is different at 50 oz.-in. vs. the 28 oz.-in. of all other Ford V8s. The wrong flexplate/flywheel or harmonic balancer can easily be installed and easily wrong. There's several other things that will need to be addressed before you can make the swap.

The valve sizes for the stock Mustang GT 5.0 HO are Intake 1.78" Exhaust 1.45"
The GT40 Cast Iron "Cobra" Head Intake 1.84" Exhaust 1.54"
 

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If this is a 1986 5.0 HO engine with the original "Flat Top" pistons, be aware of the fact that there are no valve clearance "Eyebrows" cut into the pistons, most performance heads and camshafts will not work. The valves will hit the pistons. The pistons will have to be replaced.

Again, this was only on the 1986 5.0. The heads, (E6), were unique for this year also and make excellent boat anchors. I guess it could be said that 1986 was one of Ford's experimental years.

I installed a Ford Racing crate 5.0 into my 67 before it was popular to do so. This was 18 years ago. Information was hard to find and the internet was kind of new with little on there about Hot Rodding Mustangs. When you could find technical info, a lot of times it was wrong. I studied anything I could find for about a year before I started buying parts. I decided to buy one of the new, then, crate engines. A Ford 5.0 with the Cast Iron GT40 heads. I think that these heads are fine for a fun street machine. I'm still pleased with them after all of this time. The engine runs strong. Lets face it, there's only so much that can be done on the street and still keep yourself out of jail and your car still in your garage.

One last thing about the 5.0 engine. Don't forget that the balance factor is different at 50 oz.-in. vs. the 28 oz.-in. of all other Ford V8s. The wrong flexplate/flywheel or harmonic balancer can easily be installed and easily wrong. There's several other things that will need to be addressed before you can make the swap.

The valve sizes for the stock Mustang GT 5.0 HO are Intake 1.78" Exhaust 1.45"
The GT40 Cast Iron "Cobra" Head Intake 1.84" Exhaust 1.54"
Thanks for getting me all worried again Greek! Haha. They are buying new pistons, so hopefully they are going with the "non" flat-top pistons. I didn't even think to ask because at the time I didn't know about the difference. However, last night in my research that was indeed something I came across and was concerned with. They are replacing EVERYTHING inside the engine. The only parts that are original 5.0 HO are the block, crankshaft, and camshaft. I am assuming the crank and cam are the stock, so that's what I'm hoping so that these GT40's will fit. I'll just have to ask them on Tuesday. If anything they will just have to call the parts shop and change the order on pistons or lifters or rockers. It'll just depend. They just barely put in the order for parts on Friday morning and with the holiday I'm sure the order hasn't been fulfilled. Besides, my machine shop is already sick of me changing my mind so many times, what's one more time! I feel kind of bad for them because they already ground and polished my 289 crankshaft and now I'm going with the 5.0. But oh well. They'll use it somewhere else. They already did the shoulder shrug and said "that's the business, we'll survive." I know that everyone has been giving me crap about this machine shop, but they really have been awesome to work with and have said repeatedly they want me to be happy with the outcome so I'll recommend them to others. That's their ultimate goal. I'll tell them I picked up the GT40's over the weekend and that I want to use them and see how it goes from there! I'll make sure and get some specs too so I can post them for future posterity to enjoy. Then when someone like me needs their question answered, I will have already "been there, done that" and can help them.

Thanks again for the mention of the imbalance factor. I'm going to be talking to them about that too. I'm having my engine balanced, so I'm hoping to be able to have them balance it to my 28oz damper and flywheel like Lizer did rather than having to spend $200 for a new flywheel and damper package. I'll make sure and post results for that in my other thread that has essentially turned into "The Adventures and Follies of Danny's 1967 Engine Project." (oh yes I'm totally considering renaming the thread!).
 
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