If I may suggest, you might want to bring your camber up to "0" as close as possible. What you have now will eat your tires in about 15K miles but it will handle better in the turns with your current specs.RPM said:I suspect you will NOT need the camber plates. I just had my car aligned after installing Eibach Pros which drop the car 1.2" front and 1.4" rear. Toe-in was off a little, caster and camber are well within specifications - still. Additionally, hold off purchasing an adjustable panhard rod. The rear axle on my car didn't shift over as I was told it would. I checked the centering before and after installation and found no perceptable difference in side to side measurement. Maybe I just got lucky with this one:winks.
Here are the alignment results from my '06:
Left camber -1.0* caster 7.4* SAI 17.4* included angle 16.3* toe -0.12* (toe was reset to 0.05*)
Right camber -0.8* caster 7.3* SAI 16.2* included angle 15.4* toe -0.24* (toe was reset to 0.08*)
cross camber -0.2*
cross caster 0.1*
total toe 0.13*
Advice appreciated . I know it went more negative after the spring install but was surprised it was still within the range Ford specifies. I see SPC has a camber bolt kit pn 81260 maybe try that for more positive camber?redbullet said:If I may suggest, you might want to bring your camber up to "0" as close as possible. What you have now will eat your tires in about 15K miles but it will handle better in the turns with your current specs.
Once a radial tire takes a wear pattern, it will remain.
Motor Vehicle Manufactures Specifications 2005 as supplied by Ford says service reset is -.75 +- .75* I prefer '0' but no more than -25 for tire wear.RPM said:Advice appreciated . I know it went more negative after the spring install but was surprised it was still within the range Ford specifies. I see SPC has a camber bolt kit pn 81260 maybe try that for more positive camber?
Now, are you suggesting trying for 0.0 camber or just getting closer to the -0.3? Ford camber spec is -1.3 to -0.3
RPM,RPM said:I went ahead and installed the camber bolts to get the front end back to -0.25 degrees. Alignment shop told me that my old setting wasn't going to result in quick tire wear and that many cars call for 1.0 to 2.0 degrees camber with no ill effects. I'd say get the bolts along with the springs and use them if needed. Mine were only $19. Car drove no different with either camber setting and I didn't drive it enough to notice tire wear.
It is an easy job provided you have SOME wrenching experience. Figure a couple (2-3 hours - not rushing it). Air tools help. Compressing the strut springs is real easy especially if you are used to the prior design 'stang or front ends like old GM A bodies (GTO, Chevelle). Those coils are a lot heavier. You don't have to be a master tech to handle this. I like the look and won't go back to the stock springs but at the same time I would not want my car any lower. Reading the TSB on early '05 front ends popping where the fix is to replace the upper strut bearing I noticed that Ford calls for replacing all front end fastener hardware (strut to knuckle bolts/nuts, upper strut nuts, link to strut nuts, etc.). I didn't but now wonder if this hardware is a one time use only type of stuff and maybe this should be done. Big debate on camber half say -1 degree - don't worry. Should it be returned back to near zero? I'll have to defer to others, I did it but not because I noticed any problem. I did not need to replace the panhard.KiLLeR_WoMBaT said:RPM,
Could you post some pics of your car before the springs and after? If not how about some after up close to the wheel well? I am agonizing over getting the Eibach Pro springs. Did you install them yourself? If so, how difficult was it and how long did it take? Thanks.