[Faskev]

I tried searching for the answer but had no luck, I would like to know if putting on H&R Sport Springs with a slight drop of .75" rear and 1" in the front would likely need camber plates or camber adjustment bolts in order to align the wheels to specification?

 

[hawgman]

Pretty much going to be car specific. But my gutt feeling would be no. There are cars out there using the Ebiach Sport springs that didn't need alignment, yet cars with the Pro's that did. It will be a crap shoot. But you can probably get away with it.

 

[RPM]

I suspect you will NOT need the camber plates. I just had my car aligned after installing Eibach Pros which drop the car 1.2" front and 1.4" rear. Toe-in was off a little, caster and camber are well within specifications - still. Additionally, hold off purchasing an adjustable panhard rod. The rear axle on my car didn't shift over as I was told it would. I checked the centering before and after installation and found no perceptable difference in side to side measurement. Maybe I just got lucky with this one:winks.

Here are the alignment results from my '06:

Left camber -1.0* caster 7.4* SAI 17.4* included angle 16.3* toe -0.12* (toe was reset to 0.05*)
Right camber -0.8* caster 7.3* SAI 16.2* included angle 15.4* toe -0.24* (toe was reset to 0.08*)
cross camber -0.2*
cross caster 0.1*
total toe 0.13*

 

[redbullet]

I suspect you will NOT need the camber plates. I just had my car aligned after installing Eibach Pros which drop the car 1.2" front and 1.4" rear. Toe-in was off a little, caster and camber are well within specifications - still. Additionally, hold off purchasing an adjustable panhard rod. The rear axle on my car didn't shift over as I was told it would. I checked the centering before and after installation and found no perceptable difference in side to side measurement. Maybe I just got lucky with this one:winks.

Here are the alignment results from my '06:

Left camber -1.0* caster 7.4* SAI 17.4* included angle 16.3* toe -0.12* (toe was reset to 0.05*)
Right camber -0.8* caster 7.3* SAI 16.2* included angle 15.4* toe -0.24* (toe was reset to 0.08*)
cross camber -0.2*
cross caster 0.1*
total toe 0.13*

If I may suggest, you might want to bring your camber up to "0" as close as possible. What you have now will eat your tires in about 15K miles but it will handle better in the turns with your current specs.

Once a radial tire takes a wear pattern, it will remain.

 

[RPM]

If I may suggest, you might want to bring your camber up to "0" as close as possible. What you have now will eat your tires in about 15K miles but it will handle better in the turns with your current specs.

Once a radial tire takes a wear pattern, it will remain.

Advice appreciated . I know it went more negative after the spring install but was surprised it was still within the range Ford specifies. I see SPC has a camber bolt kit pn 81260 maybe try that for more positive camber?

Now, are you suggesting trying for 0.0 camber or just getting closer to the -0.3? Ford camber spec is -1.3 to -0.3

Thanks!

 

[redbullet]

Advice appreciated . I know it went more negative after the spring install but was surprised it was still within the range Ford specifies. I see SPC has a camber bolt kit pn 81260 maybe try that for more positive camber?

Now, are you suggesting trying for 0.0 camber or just getting closer to the -0.3? Ford camber spec is -1.3 to -0.3

Thanks!

Motor Vehicle Manufactures Specifications 2005 as supplied by Ford says service reset is -.75 +- .75* I prefer '0' but no more than -25 for tire wear.

 

[thump_rrr]

Wow,

By the way you guys talk I should have run out of rubber 5000 miles ago.

I'm running an aggressive street setup with 1.5 degrees of negative camber and 3/32" toe-in (tape measure method) and the tires still look great . I do rotate them every 3000 miles though.

I'm using the Steeda Billet Camber Adjusters.

 

[softbatch]

Camber doesn't affect tire wear as much as you would think it's the toe in or out that will kill them.

Your well within specs and don't need to worry about crash bolts for your camber.

 

[RPM]

I went ahead and installed the camber bolts to get the front end back to -0.25 degrees. Alignment shop told me that my old setting wasn't going to result in quick tire wear and that many cars call for 1.0 to 2.0 degrees camber with no ill effects. I'd say get the bolts along with the springs and use them if needed. Mine were only $19. Car drove no different with either camber setting and I didn't drive it enough to notice tire wear.

 

[KiLLeR_WoMBaT]

It's been done a million times, but....

I went ahead and installed the camber bolts to get the front end back to -0.25 degrees. Alignment shop told me that my old setting wasn't going to result in quick tire wear and that many cars call for 1.0 to 2.0 degrees camber with no ill effects. I'd say get the bolts along with the springs and use them if needed. Mine were only $19. Car drove no different with either camber setting and I didn't drive it enough to notice tire wear.

RPM,
Could you post some pics of your car before the springs and after? If not how about some after up close to the wheel well? I am agonizing over getting the Eibach Pro springs. Did you install them yourself? If so, how difficult was it and how long did it take? Thanks.

 

[RPM]

RPM,
Could you post some pics of your car before the springs and after? If not how about some after up close to the wheel well? I am agonizing over getting the Eibach Pro springs. Did you install them yourself? If so, how difficult was it and how long did it take? Thanks.

It is an easy job provided you have SOME wrenching experience. Figure a couple (2-3 hours - not rushing it). Air tools help. Compressing the strut springs is real easy especially if you are used to the prior design 'stang or front ends like old GM A bodies (GTO, Chevelle). Those coils are a lot heavier. You don't have to be a master tech to handle this. I like the look and won't go back to the stock springs but at the same time I would not want my car any lower. Reading the TSB on early '05 front ends popping where the fix is to replace the upper strut bearing I noticed that Ford calls for replacing all front end fastener hardware (strut to knuckle bolts/nuts, upper strut nuts, link to strut nuts, etc.). I didn't but now wonder if this hardware is a one time use only type of stuff and maybe this should be done. Big debate on camber half say -1 degree - don't worry. Should it be returned back to near zero? I'll have to defer to others, I did it but not because I noticed any problem. I did not need to replace the panhard.

Anyway, here are pics before after.

http://www.hoigto.com/Mustang/index.html

 

[KiLLeR_WoMBaT]

RPM,

Thanks. That does look better! Is that first picture with the back already lowered but not the front?