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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys heres another fun thread.
So as you all already know I currently own a 1988 mustang 5.0 lx. I bought the car back in november and I've had multiple issues. I currently have a misfiring issue so I was told to replace multiple things. I would get a misfiring/popping sound from my vehicle under a load and would feel like I am losing power until the car would catch up and speed up the misfiring ended. I replaced the fuel filter, sparkplugs (motorcraft gapped at .052), ignition wires (autolites), MSD Cap and rotor, MSD Ignition coil, Oil & filter change, Did a 3g alternator upgrade to a 130 amp alternator(kit bought from latemodelrestorations.com) with a bigger gauge wire that goes from the alternator to the ignition system, cleaned out the Iacv(looks brand new and had no carb build up in it at all so I believe that the previous owner knew about the issue), tested the TPS and it was at a .97 so it checked out good, I replaced the tfi ignition module(made no difference) so I was told I couldve been the pip sensor in the distributor. I just replaced the distributor about 2 weeks ago and when I did I made sure the #1 cylinder was top dead center and made sure the rotor was pointed toward the number 1 cylinder/sparkplug and installed the distributor. Then my neighbor(builds cars for atco raceway here in sj) used a timing light and set my timing to 12 degrees. After the new distributor (the brand is Tough One?) was installed I noticed that the car actually now bucks/jerks forward if i stay at a steady/constant speed. For example if I drive 25 mph for a while it'll buck/jerk forward a couple of times until I increase acceleration. Although this problem doesnt occur if I accelerate or am sitting at a light in neutral. After all of that work, the misfiring issue is still present, although it did seem to go away for a day or two after the distributor install. About a week ago I installed 6 new speakers and a new headunit correctly, and last night when I turned on my headlights, I noticed another problem now. The headlights were flickering and so was the lite up dashboard. The battery gauge on the dashboard itself was bouncing up and down as well(not giant bouncing but bouncing up and down as fast as the flickering). I've never had this issue before and it hasnt gone away since last night. It cant be the aftermarket headunit or speakers because this problem just began to happen and theyve been in for a week already. The negative and positive cables arent loose either so what could be the problem? The car still misfires/pops and bucks/ jerks forward at a constant speed and now I have this issue on top of it. I am really about to bash my head through a wall... I've only had the car almost 3 months now... and it didnt seem to have these issues the first few weeks i've had it... please help me...? :banghead:

Thanks guys.. anyone.gif
 

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Hard to say about the hesitating/bucking/backfiring. Typically it's either timing or vacuum that's the culprit. After all that work in the engine compartment, make sure you didn't break any of those little plastic vacuum lines. I have a couple of them with multiple rubber hose connector joining them back together after breaking them!

For the electrical, where did you connect the head unit for power? Did you pick up the harnesses to plug into the stock connectors?

If that's your car in your avatar, very nice looking!

...and the wall usually wins so don't bang your head against it!!
 

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When you did the timing did you unhook the pip. Another thing is you might have jumped on your timing chain. Hows your vaccum. Since your car is speed density make sure you have proper vaccum to your map sensor. Also run your codes. That will help alot. Best thig is to read them. Then clear them and drive. Then check to see what comes back. Also check fuel pressure. and check you fuel pressure regulator. While running pull the vaccume line off. If fuel comes out then its bad.
 

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Check/ change the ignition electrical switch, replace the battery ground lead and check all grounds.
Have you got an aftermarket cam installed?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hard to say about the hesitating/bucking/backfiring. Typically it's either timing or vacuum that's the culprit. After all that work in the engine compartment, make sure you didn't break any of those little plastic vacuum lines. I have a couple of them with multiple rubber hose connector joining them back together after breaking them!

For the electrical, where did you connect the head unit for power? Did you pick up the harnesses to plug into the stock connectors?

If that's your car in your avatar, very nice looking!

...and the wall usually wins so don't bang your head against it!!
Im going to replace all of the vacuum lines next tuesday. For the bucking and jerking forward, it wasnt doing that until I replaced the distributor and set the timing at 12 degrees. For the electrical I bought the adapters. One wires to the wiring for the pioneer headunit(wiring that came with it) I plugged the one adapter in for the grounds and what not and the other adapter I bought plugged into the stock amplifier. Got them both from Crutch Field with my purchase.

That is my car in the avatar mexican.gif lol so thanks it just needs some tlc like one piece of trim and thats kind of it lol

and for the wall I will take your word for it haha
 

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Discussion Starter #6
When you did the timing did you unhook the pip. Another thing is you might have jumped on your timing chain. Hows your vaccum. Since your car is speed density make sure you have proper vaccum to your map sensor. Also run your codes. That will help alot. Best thig is to read them. Then clear them and drive. Then check to see what comes back. Also check fuel pressure. and check you fuel pressure regulator. While running pull the vaccume line off. If fuel comes out then its bad.
You mean the spout connector? How Could I have jumped my timing chain? My neighbor set my timing to 12 degrees I only have confidence it that he did it right because he builds and races cars here at atco in sj for the last 27 years haha so hopefully it was correct. As for speed density what is the proper vaccum for the map sensor so I will know. I will go out in a bit and try to receive codes and will post with the update. As for fuel Pressure I dont have a Pressure gauge. What vaccum line are you talking about that I need to pull off to check for fuel?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Check/ change the ignition electrical switch, replace the battery ground lead and check all grounds.
Have you got an aftermarket cam installed?
No Aftermarket Cam, Car is stock with the exception of bbk cold air intake, bbk headers, mac x pipe, mac exhausts, short throw shifter and aftermarket sound system. Which cant be the issue because this just started happening and Ive had it in for a couple of weeks now. As for the grounds, where are their locations? I see two by the head lights, one by the battery from the negative cable and on from the engine to the firewall on the drivers side.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also i just went to advanced auto to get a system check. The battery test: Good Battery. Voltage: 13.02v, Measured: 654 CCA, Rated: 540 CCA, Temperature 59F "Battery Meets or Exceeds Required Standards". The Starter test: Cranking Normal: Voltage 10.52V, Amps: 0.0A, Time: 1.12S. The Charging System Test: Results: No Problems, No Loads: 14.99V, Loaded: 14.64V, Ripple: 88mV. Charging system output test normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just used my actron obd1 code scanner. On the KOEO test I got system pass. On KOER test however, I got code 41. Code 41: Exhaust Gas Oxygen (EGO) sensor: Voltage Signal always "Lean" (low value) - does not switch. This wouldnt have anything to do with my whole bucking/ jerking forward, dashboard and head light flickering and battery gauge jumping issue would it?...
 

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Bucking

A friend was troubleshooting an 86 that bucked badly and fixed it with a new map sensor. The car had several other issues that complicated troubleshooting, such as an intermittent ignition switch. Make sure the battery ground is in good shape at both ends and the middle.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
A friend was troubleshooting an 86 that bucked badly and fixed it with a new map sensor. The car had several other issues that complicated troubleshooting, such as an intermittent ignition switch. Make sure the battery ground is in good shape at both ends and the middle.
I checked the grounds of the cable theyre fine, I'm going to run a 4 gauge wire from the negative ground on the motor mount to the ground beside the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I went to put a 4 gauge wire from where the negative battery cable mounts to on the engine to the ground next to the battery, and It didnt reach so I took it back but they didnt have a longer wire. Instead I bought a 4 gauge negative battery cable(same as the original) the only bad thing about it is that its 78 inches long which is too long causing me to ziptie and electrical tape a bunch of it together.. anyway I put that on and the car started right up and the battery gauge stopped bouncing and the dash and headlights didnt flicker the rest of the day. Today however I started my car and those issues are back... what do I do now? I had everything tested under load and posted the results above^ so its not the alternator... Maybe the battery then? do I need a bigger and better battery? I have a cheaper one its "pro start"...facepalm.gif
 
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