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HAWK HPS pads install on 2005 GT

2666 Views 17 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  eastbmore
I just replaced my stock rotors with Power Slots and used HAWK HPS Carbon pads. When I got the new pads in, one one side of the pins were on so I tried putting them on and no matter what I did, they popped off every time I installed the pad. I called American Muscle and they sent out a new set of pads. When I got the new replacement pads, all the pins were attracted to the pad but when I tried to install the outer passenger pad, one of the pins kept popping off. Some how I managed to keep it on while installing the pad...what are these pins on the front for?

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what are these pins on the front for?
I believe those are anti-rattle springs/clips. When I got new EBC pads, half of those were loose so I just took them off. I took that advice from my grease monkey friend that was helping me with the installation.

I'm not saying this is the right thing to do, but it worked for me.
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The hooks retract the pad so they wont hang up on the rotor
The hooks retract the pad so they wont hang up on the rotor
I thought that is what they were for...Has anyone ever had a problem with them pins popping off so easy?
About a year or more back I saw that Hawk was having that problem with their pads. I thought they fixed it, but it looks like they are still having some problems.

I had an old set that I got around to installing a few months ago and the clips were loose.

I had bought them from American Muscle so they exchanged them for me.

The new set also had loose clips and they sent another couple sets by the time it was all said and done.

Between the last 2 sets, I mixed and matched and got four good pads.

AMStanger/Emily took care of all that for me.
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I just replaced my stock rotors with Power Slots and used HAWK HPS Carbon pads. When I got the new pads in, one one side of the pins were on so I tried putting them on and no matter what I did, they popped off every time I installed the pad. I called American Muscle and they sent out a new set of pads. When I got the new replacement pads, all the pins were attracted to the pad but when I tried to install the outer passenger pad, one of the pins kept popping off. Some how I managed to keep it on while installing the pad...what are these pins on the front for?
Aren't the springs on the stock pads?
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Aren't the springs on the stock pads?
Yes they are and when I took off the stock pads, I could not remove those pins from the pads...
About a year or more back I saw that Hawk was having that problem with their pads. I thought they fixed it, but it looks like they are still having some problems.

I had an old set that I got around to installing a few months ago and the clips were loose.

I had bought them from American Muscle so they exchanged them for me.

The new set also had loose clips and they sent another couple sets by the time it was all said and done.

Between the last 2 sets, I mixed and matched and got four good pads.

AMStanger/Emily took care of all that for me.
I too had 2 sets and I was able to take the one good pad I had from my first batch and use that one but that one popped off to...I think this is the last time i go with Hawk Pads....it sure is a bad headache when the parts you are replacing aredefective....
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Very common issue with these style aftermarket pads. That's why I run the OEM pads on the street.
Very common issue with these style aftermarket pads. That's why I run the OEM pads on the street.

I wish I have known that before hand...Oh well....nothing I can do about it now...
I wish I have known that before hand...Oh well....nothing I can do about it now...
LOL, I have a set of Hawk HPS sitting on my bench. What about those slider things. I've never changed brake pads before. They weren't included w/ the new pad set.
When I changed the rotors to Baer decels, the original stock pads made some noise. After a 100 miles all is quite. Looks like an easy job going by the instructions on the AM page.
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LOL, What about those slider things. I've never changed brake pads before. They weren't included w/ the new pad set.
If your referring to the pins/springs you should have them on the pads. Yes its easy to change the pads. I went out and bought a cordless impact wrench to make things a lot easier...
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Yup, mine popped off as well. Frikkin' [email protected]$$ construction to cost as much as they do. I didn't even really notice an improvement in braking... not enough to justify the cost. I certainly won't buy them again.

~HA
If your referring to the pins/springs you should have them on the pads. Yes its easy to change the pads. I went out and bought a cordless impact wrench to make things a lot easier...
The new pads have the pins/springs on them. I was talking about the guide pins I guess. A thin metal slider thing. LOL
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about 2 weeks ago I had the same problem with my front hawk pads on my 06 GT. I drilled and tapped the posts where the clips are supposed to be fastened to and installed 8-32 x 3-8ths allen screws with flatwashers and loctite to hold the clips in place.
Every time I switch over to high performance pads be it on a motorcycle which I have gone through at least a 1000 sets of pads or a car I remove all of the OEM anti rattle parts. The only function they serve is to prevent the pads from being able to move around in the caliper and make noise. Most designs also have the negative effect of “holding” the pad up against the rotor more than you want it too also because they don’t allow the pads to retract in between use. Of course I am not talking about them retracting to the point where you will feel it in the pedal (or lever on a motorcycle), they just need to retract to the point where they are not putting any pressure on the disc.

The downside is that the pads can make a crapload of noise while coasting at slow speeds. And on top of that high performance pads make a ton of noise anyway. I ran Hawk HP’s on my 03’ Cobra with no anti rattle hardware and when you were coasting up to a stop it sounded like something was going to fall off the wheels. I got plenty of strange looks from people in parking lots, etc. The pads worked great though. Part of the trade off like most mods.

Someone mentioned that they didn’t notice an improvement over their OEM pads. I’m guessing that they were not bedded in as well as they could have been. I have bedded in more pads than I care to remember (3-4 sets a race weekend and a set every track day) and when done correctly the results are outstanding. If done incorrectly they turn to wood and there is no saving them.

I turned my first set of Hawk street pads to wood following the bedding procedure given by I think it was Hawk. I got another set the next day and bedded them in like I bed all of my bike pads in and they worked great. My procedure is as follows:

I first start by cleaning the rotor surfaces with Scotch Brite and brake cleaner to make sure there is no pad material on the rotors.

Then I assemble the brakes.

Next is to get out on the street/pits and do 25-30 stops from 25mph using no more than 25% brake pressure. Cruising around the neighborhood is a good way of doing this. About 15 stops in you will begin to feel the pads start to bite. Once the “bit” has leveled off which is usually between 25-30 stops you have bedded them in. After that is done the car/bike needs to be parked until the pads/rotors are completely cooled off, preferably at least an hour. After the pads/rotors are cooled off I go back out and do 2-3 stops from 25mph using 25% brake pressure or until I feel them warm up and bite real good. Then a few stops from 50-60mph using 50% brake pressure and as long as they are biting good and hard a few stops from 75-80mph using…..you guessed it, 75% brake pressure. By now your eyeballs should be falling out of your head. On the bikes I don’t do the braking from 25-50-75mph “drill” after the first cooldown but the first few laps on cold tires/green track allows me to bring them up to temp slowly. If possible I let the pads/rotors cool down all the way again before I start “using” them but it is rare I get a chance to so just do it if you can.

Using the above method I have had great success getting the maximum performance I can out of a set of pads.

Hope this helps.
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Every time I switch over to high performance pads be it on a motorcycle which I have gone through at least a 1000 sets of pads or a car I remove all of the OEM anti rattle parts.
The downside is that the pads can make a crapload of noise while coasting at slow speeds. And on top of that high performance pads make a ton of noise anyway.





Next is to get out on the street/pits and do 25-30 stops from 25mph using no more than 25% brake pressure. Cruising around the neighborhood is a good way of doing this. About 15 stops in you will begin to feel the pads start to bite. Once the “bit” has leveled off which is usually between 25-30 stops you have bedded them in. After that is done the car/bike needs to be parked until the pads/rotors are completely cooled off, preferably at least an hour. After the pads/rotors are cooled off I go back out and do 2-3 stops from 25mph using 25% brake pressure or until I feel them warm up and bite real good. Then a few stops from 50-60mph using 50% brake pressure and as long as they are biting good and hard a few stops from 75-80mph using…..you guessed it, 75% brake pressure. By now your eyeballs should be falling out of your head. On the bikes I don’t do the braking from 25-50-75mph “drill” after the first cooldown but the first few laps on cold tires/green track allows me to bring them up to temp slowly. If possible I let the pads/rotors cool down all the way again before I start “using” them but it is rare I get a chance to so just do it if you can.



Hope this helps.
Yeah my EBC pads sing for me when I slowly coast to a stop.

Thanks for the break-in advice! I'll have to try that next time.
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mine popped off too on one pad, i just used one of the oem springs n it held on to the new pad better than the aftermarket spring. 2000 miles later still there:)
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