[crossroads]

So I confirmed a faulty head gasket by way of Combustion Leak Test. I don't know what the signs would be of a warped or cracked head without tearing down the engine. Engine still runs ok except for a light rough idle in P and N. No hesitation. No bogging. I'm thinking that it's just the gasket(s) starting to leak.

What would be your experienced opinion?
If the heads are ok and just need new gaskets, what it the best brand to get? Ford does NOT make head gaskets anymore. I would be looking for an entire kit:
Head Gaskets and hardware,
Lower Intake Gaskets, Seals and hardware(just replaced those, but will replace again if I have to do the heads.
Upper Intake Gasket and hardware
EGR Gasket

Experienced help would be great, but knowledgeable input is very welcome as well.

 

[sporty12]

I would get that fixed before I drove it, you could be getting antifreeze in the oil. That could be what is making it miss, antifreeze in a cylinder or two. Fel Pro gaskets are good and you can get them at auto parts stores. Get the head or heads checked before you put them back on.

 

[crossroads]

No coolant in oil. Just combustion fumes in radiator after thermostat opens. Also a lot of back pressure in cooling system. I read somewhere in one of these forms that I should use Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) gaskets for the heads. Also, same post, to use the 1999+ V6 head gaskets.

 

[baddbradd]

Definitely have the heads milled, new head bolt (stock are tty) and bleed air from cooling system....What year are you working on?

EDIT: Is your car an 08?

 

[crossroads]

This is on a 1996 3.8l. My profile pic is my other mustang.

Where can I buy new Head bolts, lower intake bolts and upper intake bolts?

I have done the lower and upper intake gaskets, that I will do again when I do the heads, but I don't want to re-torque those again. They were creaking quite a bit the last time I tightened them. Not willing to risk breaking them off in the block.

Will the MLS 1999 3.8l head gaskets fit perfect on a 96?

With the heads off is there anything else that I should replace?

 

[Ian74]

I had the same problem last year on my 02 but the exhaust smelled like antifreeze another dead give away. I ordered my gaskets as a head kit so it comes with all you need , head gasket intake,plentum and exhaust but i did order the bolts seperate all from carquest which had a machine shop in the back.You may know this but im going to mention it anyway ,lol. you need to remove the head bolts in the correct pattern not front to back or back to front or you risk warping the heads like a banana. I took mine to the machinist and had them cleaned , new valve guides installed and 20 thousands of an inch shaved off, then cleaned and used valve grinding compound to reseat them at home .

 

[baddbradd]

Haha, cool man, I looked at your sig and did a double take!

 

[baddbradd]

I am not sure on the head gaskets....but being a 96 with a single port motor, what about Super coupe gaskets? Boost proof

 

[crossroads]

Ian74: Where did you get the bolts? My Haynes manual says to loosen the head bolts in the reverse order of tightening, one bolt at a time, a 1/4 turn at a time til they can be removed by hand. This sound right to you? A video on you tube of a guy doing heads says to use a torque wrench to get them started so not to break them. The haynes guide also says to use pipe locker on the long bolts as well as tapping the threads before installing the new bolts. That sound right or can I just use cutting oil and compressed air to prep the threads before installing the new ones?

 

[TerryProTech]

I always build an engine with new bolts...Most of the time they stretch and its not worth messing something up especially since bolts cost a heck of a lot less than an engine...Ford usually has bolts available if not they can be ordered...I don't use thread locker on head bolts that are torque to yield...Its unnecessary but a drop of oil along with chasing the thread holes ain't a bad idea...You can remove them in the opposite...I don't know the exact procedure to installing them but usually in three steps...Some engines use a torque angle gauge along with a torque wrench also...Good luck!

 

[Ian74]

Sorry for the late reply but I never use a torque wrench to loosen anything, just break them loose easy in the reverse pattern and you will be fine . Regarding the oil and compressed air to remove material from the bolt holes , not good enough. I blow the hole out ,run a tap with oil then blow it back out then flush with brake cleaner then blow that out. Any trash in the hole will effect torque specs.oh and as far as where I bought them and the rest of my parts , rock auto.com. I also use copper spray for the head gaskets and assembly lube for everything metal to metal, lifters ,pushrods, rocker assemblies , ect

 

[TerryProTech]

I agree with not using a torque wrench to loosen anything....There is no point to that at all....The cleaner the threads are the better..

 

[stang06girl]

Blown head gaskets are common on the cast iron 3.8 v6's. (Had it happen on a 89 T-bird, and twice on a 94 mustang). It usually happens between 110,000 miles and 130,000 miles. You should get the proper year head gaskets, and definitely get new head bolts, The head bolts are use once, torque to yield bolts. They can not be re used. It wouldn't hurt to have the heads surfaced.

Follow the manual for the torque procedure. It's convoluted, but absolutely necessary. The intake and exhaust bolts are not torque to yield bolts, they can be re-used. There is no reason to use a torque wrench to loosen the bolts. For removing the head bolts, use the biggest damn breaker bar you can find. WD40 works fine for chasing threads. Blow the holes out with compressed air afterwards. Only the short head bolts need pipe sealant on the threads, use engine oil on the threads of the remaining bolts.

 

[6stang02]

For your intake/exhaust bolts i doubt there will be an issue with them, use a die and clean the threads off before they go back together. Good luck on this, tell us how it goes!