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I recently noticed the car gettting hot with just a 15 minute drive in town. Put some water in the radiator, but it seemed to leak even faster with a quick drip in idle. Will some liquid aluminum help? Or really mess it up? I checked with one local garage, and he said it would probably be best to replace it, as 'fixing' it would cost about the same ($380+) and could be a problem in the future. I really hate to spend the money, as I'm only 'babysitting' it for my mother-in-law!
And I'm also under the gun in geting it fixed, as I only have a couple of days until I give it back!
Will the liquid alum. fix it? The Auto Zone guys didn't recommend it, and definitely said to stay away from a sealer, as it could freeze the thermostat and/or (something else) in the long run.
I'm not really motor-inclined, so your help is appreciated!
 

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2000 Mustang V6(Sold) / 2002 Mustang GT Convertible
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Its not something id use in my car, just because for me it'd cost me just barely more to get a brand new radiator. Did they actually diagnose the problem for you at the shop? Or is it just something they told you that could be wrong?
 

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welcome to the site,enjoy
 

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i would just go to autozone or orilleys and get some radiator stop-leak
 

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STOP! Don't waste your money!

I presume it's the radiator that's leaking, but look everything over first. Look at the hoses, the water pump, the head gasket. If the leak is indeed the radiator then you have a problem. A radiator that loses that much coolant that fast is leaking too badly to be fixed by any additive. Stop Leak won't even fix a small leak for very long. If the leak has come from corrosion, then there will be other areas that will soon start to leak. Worse than that, most stop leak additives will reduce heater core function and leave deposits in other places where you don't want them. That sealer stuff hasta' settle out some where.

If that is still the original radiator, then you are lucky it lasted this long. Admit it, it's shot! Suck it up, get a new one and get it over with. Save that additive money to rent a "Bullitt" CD and watch it after you put in the new radiator!

I'm not yellin' at you, I'm just givin' you some fatherly advice. Been there, done that, kinda stuff.

Harry
 

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I have to agree with 60s refugee.

I have my original radiator; it has been recored several times, and 'rodded out' a few times. While it is cool to have the original still there, it is a wearable part after all, and I am quite prepared to toss it if it gets to that point.

There is a local shop here in town that does the whole overhaul bit for about $80 if I remember right. But for $380 you could practically buy two new radiators.

If it is leaking in one spot, that means the metal is thin there. It will most likely be thin in other spots as well.

Order up a new one and be done with it. One less part to worry about in the future. Maybe since you took such nice care of it, your MIL will be inclined to let you borrow it again in the future........or did she know about the leak and this is her way of getting free labor? Hmmmmmmmm

Michael
 

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In my opinion, if a radiator starts leaking from its core, electrolosis has probably eaten the at the whole thing and you will continue to have problems. A new 3 plus row (Extra cooling) radiator for my 67 only costs $235 Dollars from NPD. I don't like having any doubts about the integrity of a cooling system. There is too much expensive equipment, (engine), at risk.
 

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I would like to follow up on what 00StangGuy said. Do you know for sure it's the radiator? Did AutoZone (aka SellSomthingZone) actually look at the car. Pop the hood, get in there and look around. Don't replace a radiator because a hose is cracked or a clamp is loose. Check anything and everything that could cause the leak before you do ANYTHING! I can't tell you how many times I've seen someone replace a $100 part because "they're sure that's the problem" only to find out it was a $2 clamp they never checked.

CHECK CHECK CHECK before you replace!
 

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Pardon my ignorance, but what is The Greek referring to with "NPD"? I might need to buy one of those $235 radiators myself.
 

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Veronica, thanks for providing the link.

The radiator from NPD is a copper unit and retains the original dimensions of the OE rad. tank. The core thickness is greater and has what is called a 3+ row tube coolant passages and a higher fin count. The passages are wider than standard and are supposed to flow more coolant than a traditional 4 row.

I have a rather high output 5.0 engine and this radiator keeps up with it's cooling demands with no problem here in Florida. I think that the $223.95 asking price (67 Mustang, bolt in rad.) is really reasonable when compared to the aluminum units, which are about twice the price. (I can't really understand why they're so high in price.) The quality of NPDs copper rads. is really good. I've had mine installed for about 5 years.

I do advise getting a sacrificial anode to help eliminate any internal corrosion of the cooling system.(electrolysis) The anodes are available attached to a radiator cap or as a screw in design where it replaces the drain petcock. They do need monitoring from time to time because they get eaten away instead of your cooling sys. and radiator. and last for quite a while. The caps are branded "Rad-Cap' available in different pressure ratings from NPD. You can get them with a vintage Ford cap attached or in an after market 8 sided cap. The type that screws into the rad petcock port is made by "Flex-a-lite" described as "1/4 inch NPT thread Radiator Anode, Zinc" part number 32060. This anode is available from Jeg's.
 

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Thanks! You guys are awesome!

Even though I've had my mustang for 15 years (before that my brother for 10 years and my mom for 13) I'm just now getting into some serious restoration and until I hit this site, I was only working off the californiamustang.com site.

The Greek, I googled your "zeg's" reference and got another supplier!

I'm really grateful for your input.

Tom
 
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