barrometric sensor, vane air meter, short/corroded injector harness, the injectors have a constant positive 12 volt signal, and are triggered by a ground signal. if you have 12 volts to one side key on then it's a signal issue not power, and if it is a vane air problem the car will run without it plugged in, but if the door inside it is shut it wont draw air, should also run without a barrometric sensor, but strange things happen when the signal goes way out of range. i believe most of the injector pulse is ran off the distributor/ tfi signal, that's why i think its a harness connection or broken wire.
well i've had a VERY similar problem, was driving home one night and then the car just shut off right after i pulled in the drive (lucky it waited till i got where i was going huh?) anyway it would never start again. i also had ignition and fuel and all that good stuff including a kill switch on my fuel system which totally bypasses the fuel relay switch that was mentioned as a possible cause earlier. ill almost GAURANTEE if you go to autozone and buy a eec-iv diagnostic tool that you will stumble across trouble code 84 and maybe even code 85 which both deal directly with your EGR system. i've torn my car apart looking for the cause until i broke down and went to buy this lovely little device! i mean everything i could think of i checked, and now the computer code says 84 which is pointing to a solenoid in the egr valve...i never would have looked there if not for the computer so i highly recommend you go to the store and ask for one of these tools, they are only $30 USD so very affordable for any do it yourselfer and VERY handy...... good luck it's made by a company called ACTRON and it's called a code scanner. the model you will likely need is CP9015 take care
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