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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1968 Mustang, 8" standard leaf spring, Dual exhaust, nothing out of the norm that would be in the way...
I can't seem to find any images on google to reference types and fitment. They are so obscure... Not looking for over kill, just a standard rear anti-sway to help with understeer a little. Seems that are lot out there. My biggest concern is just finding one that will fit, not hit or bind anything up.

pics, brand... suggestions.. help me out please!:|
 

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1967 Mercury Cougar XR7
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JTingle, if you want less understeer, make sure you deal with the front end. A 1" anti-sway bar and the Shelby (Arning) drop will make a huge difference. So will monte carlo bars, export brace, and some chassis stiffening.

Usually, rear bars are used on track cars to help reduce *oversteer*, especially while using very stout front swaybars. (NOT understeer!) It all depends on how your suspension is set up, but there are some things you should probably be aware of before adding a rear sway bar.

Both front and rear anti-sway bars are designed to prevent body roll. When you are transitioning from turning one direction to the other, the weight transfer happens much faster, which does allow for crisper handling. However, if you take this to extremes the car will also tend to be less forgiving, and will tend to hold corners right up to the point where everything comes loose without warning.

Simply said, most people who are not absolute track fiends do not run rear swaybars. Even those that do, usually make sure the front suspension is bang on, before turning their attention to the rear one.
 

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Ok, given mine is a 1st gen mustang, I run a 1" front and a 5/8"s rear. Handling is very very good when it comes to "twisties. No oversteer tendencies. This combined with the classic shelby drop and gas filled shocks, makes it handle more neutral.
I set it up similar to the SCCA class "B" track cars.
BTW, the addition of a rear bar will shift tendencies toward oversteer, not the opposite. It's the balance (diameters) between front and rear bars that shift the tendencies from understeer to oversteer.
You might attend local auto-cross events and talk to the participants.
Good Luck
 
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1967 Mercury Cougar XR7
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It's absolutely about how the whole suspension works together. But throwing a rear swaybar on an otherwise stock '68 is not likely to improve handling, and will likely worsen it.

Trying to sum up exactly how suspension tweaks will affect your car in only a sentence or two is not very effective, but I stand by my previous statement: Get your front end and chassis set up before messing with rear sway bars. It will help a lot more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Okay... so guess I should have provided the other facts of the car....

620 Grab-A-Track front coils
BallBearing Roller spring Perches
Arning 1" Drop
1" front Anti-sway bar
Monte Carlo Bar
Export Brace
HD mid eye rear Leafs
ALL new ball joints, upper and lower arms.
16x8 all corners with 245x50R16s Goodrich

I intend to put a chassis braces on to stiffer car in future.

I know that adding a REAR anti sway bar can IMPROVE UNDERSTEER... not make understeer worse.... Grimbrand has it backwards. Most people warn that the rear bar can cause a loose rear end, I'm aware of this, and do intend to take car to limits but also want it street-able.

So the advice I'm looking for is what works best for my needs and what FITS with out interference...

IF YOU HAVE ONE ON YOUR CAR AND YOU ARE HAPPY WITH IT, 67/68 MUSTANG WITH DUAL EXHAUST
what brand and possible picts can you provide so I can see..

Thanks.
 

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You can contact Cobra Automotive in Connecticut, or Opentracker Racing Products in CA., they have more racing experience than everyone else combined.

I'd be surprised if either shop advised on getting the rear sway bar, but I've been wrong before.

Z
 

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I previously had an axle-mounted sway bar and was not happy with it. It hit the exhaust and eventually pulled the hangars out of the floor pan, causing the exhaust to rest on the axle. So if you do get a sway bar, I'd go with one that mounts to the chassis.

That being said, I'm personally a fan of the Watt's Link. You can add one with some basic welding, and a good one is adjustable to dial in balance. Basically, it'll have the same effect as a sway bar, while retaining ride quality. Exhaust fitment will be more difficult, but not impossible. But having a positively and accurately located roll center is very important for consistent handling.

Other things you can try are raising the rear tire pressure, dialing in more front camber (1-1.5 degree for track duty or spirited driving), add caster, and most importantly adjustable shocks.
 
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