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Discussion Starter #1
ok so i just bought a 347 from frpp and i put it in the car and am close to gettin her started. i put the distributor in and it doesnt go all the way down. its still a 302 block obviously and ive tried 2 distributors and they dont fit. and i sure as hell dont wanna pull the motor back out unless i 110% have to. anyone else have this problem? what was the fix?
 

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Had that prob with several rebuilds! The distributor is not connecting to the oil pump drive shaft. Major headache! :kooky:

Hit the starter once or twice to move the shaft a few degrees and hope you get the timing right... :tongue
 

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dude thats exactly my problem. why doesnt it line up? im about to pull the motor tomorrow unless u can tell me a way to do it otherwise. any way i can get it right without pulling the motor? i gotta drop the pan tomorrow anyways so ill be under there. but i dont want to pull the motor out
 

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Tominator said:
Had that prob with several rebuilds! The distributor is not connecting to the oil pump drive shaft. Major headache! :kooky:

Hit the starter once or twice to move the shaft a few degrees and hope you get the timing right... :tongue

Do as the man says
 

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You may want to invest in a pre oiling tool (not sure what the correct term is). It basically drops down into your distributor hole and you hook a drill motor up to it and turn the oil pump (ccw) till you get pressure. Helps to insure that oil is up where it needs to be to for that first startup! You can also use it to move the oil pump shaft where you need it to be. If you have the starter hooked up then do as the post above suggested.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
no the starter isnt hooked up. but why doesnt it align right? its still a 302 block. ive cranked the motor over with the crank bolt and a socket. the pump didnt move. its super flimsy. i gotta drop the pan tomorrow to try and fix it. any suggestions on how to do this as simple as pissible?
 

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The pump won't move unless the distributor turns the driveshaft.
I'll leave the car in fourth gear, (manual) and rock it against the engine's compression, using my knees on the bumper. That's always been enough to get it to drop the rest of the way, unless the O.P. driveshaft has pulled up out of the pump (which it shouldn't have). What ever method you use, you may end up having to revolve the crank one time - or even more - to get it to drop. Just make sure that the dizzy rotor is spinning accordingly, (it should, as I'd bet dollars to donuts that the driven gear is engaged to the cam drive gear, in spite of not being engaged to the pump driveshaft).
Longshot here, but, maybe the dizzys you tried are both gunked up at the bottoms of their housings, and are just resisting the hole in the block.
 

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The problem is that the hole the shaft goes through in the block is large enough to let it sit at an angle. Real tough to get it aligned! :tongue


You can preoil with the correct size 1/4 inch socket, an extension, using a 1/2 HP drill. Sorry, but I forget the proper size.
:?:
 
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