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I just want to start by saying that I am not only new to this forum, but to the world of self-servicing/maintenancing cars in general.....& I'm a chick! (I figured I'd lead w/that to secure a line of defense against any potential displays of s̶t̶u̶p̶i̶d̶i̶t̶y̶ ignorance now&in the future)lol. So I'm going to ask for forgiveness & an extra dose of leniency if I happen to say something that's supposed to be "common sense" as I've never been the "common" type AND if I'm in the wrong category or whatever- I'm tired, I'm stressed out, &I w̶a̶n̶t̶ NEED my dang car back already, so I quickly skimmed &chose the one I thought was most fitting.. so let's get on w/it...

I have a manual 05 mustang GT basically everything is stock other than a short throw shifter and a muffler delete. Nothing fancy.
In the recent months my car just kinda started running bad. she just wasnt herself. The CEL would come on/off intermittently..not flashing or on/off super quick...I just mean it would come on for awhile and after so much time it would turn back off&stay off for awhile and then come back on so on&so forth. It seemed to be relative to when I put gas in..if I filled my tank up it would go off within a few miles of driving and come back on when I got below a quarter tank..if I put gas in but didn't fill up, it was a toss if it would go off or not..sometimes it would,but most times it wouldn't. It also started to do the most annoying vibrating once I hit 80mph, the car would shake-hard. Strangely it wasnt a constant occurence but it it def happened >85% of the time. I could feel it in the steering wheel, more so than in my seat(driver seat)..i dont think I really felt it at all in my seat tbh..however I was wanting my roommate (who's a dude& supposedly knows cars)to see if he could tell what the deal was&in doing so I obviously rode passenger and idk how or why, but theres a massive difference in the feel of the car between driver&passenger seat. The car shakes soo bad in the passenger seat even at idle&again once it hits 80mph. Its mild in between but enough that you can still feel it.. well, while my roommate was driving we never even made it to 80mph for him to be able to check cuz dude thinks he knows EVERYTHING &despite me telling him to chill out cuz he's driving my car too hard, shes not herself, he of course ignores me&continues revving the RPMs so excessively high&shifting so hard that it didn't take long for the wrench light&CEL to come on simultaneously &the gas pedal basically stopped working...the car never fully died/stalled out- but it was struggling. The gas pedal just wasnt responding. After getting home&turning the car off...I immediately started it back up out of curiosity and the wrench light was off and the car was running like it did before he violated her..still bad & not normal-but not straight broken&half dead lol. I just turned it back off &that was that. The car could still be driven but if it was in the mid day when it was super hot the same thing would happen again..as long as I didn't drive it midday- it wouldnt happen. He took it to a buddy of his who charged me $50 to scan it and said 2&8 were misfiring & "something about some voltage correlation"-his exact words. Super helpful,right? He told me all I needed was a tune up &I wasnt about to let him take it to another "buddy" of his so I decided to buy my own scanner but by the it got here the CEL was of course off and since his buddy had erased the codes i wasnt getting any readings. So I was like screw it, a tune up can't hurt, &this car stuff can't really be THAT hard, right? Lol so I ordered&installed new plugs&coil packs, changed the oil&put in a new filter (mobil 1 filter&oil)..&I didn't break a single plug-can you believe that?! I was so worried for nothing...I used deep creep &only 1 plug gave me trouble..we kinda had to fight,but I won. I was so proud...but it was short lived. When I started my car up..it ran like really bad...immediately upon taking off I could tell it was suuuuper sluggish and as soon as I gave it gas after shifting to 2nd immediately the CEL &wrench light both came on at the same time and the car really wasnt going anywhere..so I just stopped put in reverse and parked it again. I hooked up my scanner and I got codes P2135, P2106,& P0302. So, my question is/[are], why would I still be getting a misfire in cylinder 2 after changing the plugs&coil packs? And the scanner/sensor I have said the confirmed fix was fuel injector replacement? I'm like hmmm...that doesnt seem right? But I'm probably wrong lol..I was thinking I should probably start with replacing the TPS & pedal position sensor w/a thorough cleaning of the throttle body? Idk. Someone pls help lol. Has anyone else had this problem or similar symptoms that has fixed it?
 

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Welcome My Lil Pony and thank you for joining ALLFORDMUSTANGS!
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Hang in there, you’ll be getting some help soon. We are a family friendly board, and don’t tolerate rudeness or inappropriate behavior. You chose the right forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome My Lil Pony and thank you for joining ALLFORDMUSTANGS!
Please read the Site Rules if you haven’t already.
We encourage you to complete your Account Settings.
Do you need help posting? Please read this FAQ.

We’re happy you have chosen to be a part of our community.

Hang in there, you’ll be getting some help soon. We are a family friendly board, and don’t tolerate rudeness or inappropriate behavior. You chose the right forum.
Thank you for the welcome! I've since read the site rules...I apologize for my profane language lol I now know for the future. I really hope someone can help me,I'm checking back every 10mins hoping someone will be able to advise me so I know whether or not to order these parts lol I feel like that psycho stalker ex gf lol
And did you add that "I'm a Chick!"signature to my profile? Lol I like it. Thanks..cuz now everyone will read it & be like "ahhhhhh. Okay. That explains everything.." lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Don’t replace the TPS w out testing it. You replaced the injector and it still runs bad?
No I have not replaced the injector.. the sensor that I used to scan my car that gave me those codes suggested that to be the repair to fix those codes.. so it looks like they were right &I was wrong.. not a shocker lol. Thank you for your response I'll go ahead&hold off on ordering a new TPS & pedal position sensor for now until I check the TPS..I'm supposed to use a multimeter and put the positive in the yellow wires hole (no intended dirty innuendo lol)&the negative where again? The top cords hole, right? (My god I can't even type that w/a straight face..wtf is wrong w/me? Lol I'm so mature) should I test the pedal position sensor? Can you even test that?
I'm going to apologize in advance if I seem like a toddler going thru the "but why" phase..I can't help it. I want to know everything about everything and strangely, it seems like the more I learn the more confused I get lol. I'll find an answer to one question which then leads to 3 more questions..its a never ending cycle of permanent ignorance lol
 

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And did you add that "I'm a Chick!"signature to my profile? Lol I like it. Thanks..cuz now everyone will read it & be like "ahhhhhh. Okay. That explains everything.." lol.
Well, since you wanted to make it very clear, and declared it in your very first sentence, I thought you might want that as a tagline ;)

Maybe you should reach out to @Grimbrand or @Cobrajet67 or @Bullitt95 to start with.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, since you wanted to make it very clear, and declared it in your very first sentence, I thought you might want that as a tagline ;)

Maybe you should reach out to @Grimbrand or @Cobrajet67 or @Bullitt95 to start with.
Thanks its perfect lol. How do I reach out to them exactly? I've been reading forums on this site for quite some time before I ever even made an account (mostly because I have no valuable input that anyone is going to benefit from plus I was able to find answers to my questions by reading others people's posts/contributions)& I'd always see the username Bullitt95 on just about all of them, if not all of them. I saw it enough to be able to recognize it in future posts lol and it actually got to the point where I'd be reading a post, see that username, & automatically have zero reservations as to the accuracy of what I was reading lol. Sometimes you find info online where someone is suggesting that people do things that even I would question...sometimes to a dangerous degree lol so I always go into things very skeptical. It's nice to be able to recognize something that you feel you can trust lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, since you wanted to make it very clear, and declared it in your very first sentence, I thought you might want that as a tagline ;)

Maybe you should reach out to @Grimbrand or @Cobrajet67 or @Bullitt95 to start with.
Nevermind..disregard my last question. I figured it out.. lol. It was a tough one...figuring out that I had to just click the name that's highlighted in blue and tap message.. it was a real brain teaser but nothing gets by me...lol thanks again. And I think I like your signature better...wanna trade? Lol

P.s how do you completely delete an entry/post? Is it not possible?
 

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Nevermind..disregard my last question. I figured it out.. lol. It was a tough one...figuring out that I had to just click the name that's highlighted in blue and tap message.. it was a real brain teaser but nothing gets by me...lol thanks again. And I think I like your signature better...wanna trade? Lol
I already reached-out for you basically. When I mentioned them in my post, they get notified automatically.

P.s how do you completely delete an entry/post? Is it not possible?
You can’t really, only moderators/administrators can do that. All you really need to do is read that FAQ I listed in the welcome message. It shows you how to report posts and do many other things. It even has pictures.
 

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Here's a helpful video for the P2135 code.
I believe a faulty TPS sensor could cause the 2106 code if the TPS is sending an out of range voltage signal back to the ECM (engine control module). If you replace it, be sure to buy a Ford Motorcraft sensor. Myself and many others have had bad experiences with aftermarket sensors.

As for the misfire, yes it can be caused by a faulty fuel injector. But first, try swapping the coil pack with an adjacent pack. If you get a new misfire code with the swapped cylinder and not on the original problem cylinder, then you have a faulty coil. But if it you still get the same cylinder mis-fire, then the fuel injector could be faulty, faulty wiring to the coil pack, or you're losing compression on that cylinder. Inspect the coil pack connector wires for cracks, splits, and don't be afraid to peel back the wire harness tape to check further back. There are noid light test kits you buy/rent from most auto parts stores to test for signal at the pack connector as well. You can test the fuel injector the same as the coil pack, by swapping with an adjacent cylinder. If all that checks out, then I would take it the have a compression & leak down test done at a shop.

Since you're self educating on working on your pony, here's the Ford service manual. Lots of great info.
 

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So, my question is/[are], why would I still be getting a misfire in cylinder 2 after changing the plugs&coil packs? And the scanner/sensor I have said the confirmed fix was fuel injector replacement? I'm like hmmm...that doesnt seem right? But I'm probably wrong lol..I was thinking I should probably start with replacing the TPS & pedal position sensor w/a thorough cleaning of the throttle body? Idk. Someone pls help lol. Has anyone else had this problem or similar symptoms that has fixed it?
I posted this on another thread that you commented on but I see that some of it has already been covered. In any case here it is:
A misfire can be ignition, fuel, timing, or compression related. If you have a specific cylinder misfiring then it's usually a coil, plug, or injector. Sometimes it's the wiring/plug going to the coil or injector. More rarely a single cylinder misfire may be the cause of a more basic problem and that particular cylinder just happens to be the weakest link out of all of all of them so it misfires before the others do. Basic issues like low or high fuel pressure or volume, major engine vacuum leak, EGR valve stuck in the wide open position, clogged EGR ports, etc. However, any of these more basic issues will typically register more codes so tracking down the problem becomes easier. In your case, you have 2 throttle codes. I'd fix the car to get rid of those first then move onto the misfire. The misfire might even be related to those codes in an indirect way.
If you can rule out that the plug is in fact firing you can then see if the fuel injector is getting power and a pulse from the PCM with a noid light or test light: Fuel Injector Testing: Noid Light vs Power Probe vs Test Light (Honda) - YouTube
You might be able to get a free loaner noid kit from Advance, Autozone, etc. or you can just buy a cheap test light. The test light is the better idea since you can use it for many other things. Noid lights are more of a convenience tool.
 

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For someone with no prior experience fixing cars and a female in what's typically a man's hobby/industry(cars/auto mechanics) I'm impressed with your good grasp on troubleshooting and understanding diagnosis. You also have no fear to do it yourself and a desire to learn.
So, with the heat of the middle of the day and less than a full tank of gas your problem tends to happen. I would guess that it might be fuel related like a weak fuel pump or bad FRP sensor but you're not getting any fuel codes at least not since they were cleared.
The heat of the day issue also makes me think of my 3V engine problem and it turned out to be bad VCT solenoids(they were cheap aftermarket ones). On very hot days and when doing stop/go driving it would go into limp mode just like yours does. My theory was the hotter engine and oil affected the crappy quality solenoids as they were more sensitive than the Motorcraft ones. Though, I can't remember exactly what codes were being registered whatever they were definitely weren't your codes so this probably isn't your issue anyway.
Your throttle woes might be the accelerator pedal/sensor, TPS sensor, throttle body, or any of the wiring or plugs to them. Sometimes the plug connector to the TB gets corrosion on the pins or the connector can loosen up or warp from time/heat. Check the wiring for any damage as well.
The P2106 usually just means that the car has gone into limp mode. However, it can also mean that the throttle actuator control system has a problem. Since you also have the P2135 it would seem to me that this is actually the case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
For someone with no prior experience fixing cars and a female in what's typically a man's hobby/industry(cars/auto mechanics) I'm impressed with your good grasp on troubleshooting and understanding diagnosis. You also have no fear to do it yourself and a desire to learn.
So, with the heat of the middle of the day and less than a full tank of gas your problem tends to happen. I would guess that it might be fuel related like a weak fuel pump or bad FRP sensor but you're not getting any fuel codes at least not since they were cleared.
The heat of the day issue also makes me think of my 3V engine problem and it turned out to be bad VCT solenoids(they were cheap aftermarket ones). On very hot days and when doing stop/go driving it would go into limp mode just like yours does. My theory was the hotter engine and oil affected the crappy quality solenoids as they were more sensitive than the Motorcraft ones. Though, I can't remember exactly what codes were being registered whatever they were definitely weren't your codes so this probably isn't your issue anyway.
Your throttle woes might be the accelerator pedal/sensor, TPS sensor, throttle body, or any of the wiring or plugs to them. Sometimes the plug connector to the TB gets corrosion on the pins or the connector can loosen up or warp from time/heat. Check the wiring for any damage as well.
The P2106 usually just means that the car has gone into limp mode. However, it can also mean that the throttle actuator control system has a problem. Since you also have the P2135 it would seem to me that this is actually the case.
Okay whoa...whooaaa... that was a bit much to take in I'm a bit overwhelmed lol. I'm still trying to figure out to test my damn TPS..why is this info so hard to find? All the info I find isn't for vehicles w/fly by wire OR they're only 3 prong/pins(w/e the correct term is lol). The info I did find that was for 4 pins told me to unhook the clip on the TPS and test the ohm readings of "prongs"..not to backwire test it. However, they dont specify if I'm supposed to have the ignition on or not and they refer to the prongs as prong 1-4 (I'm assuming 1 to be the top&4 to be the bottom) which is fine, but the color of the corresponding wires that connects to those pins is completely different than mine..I decided to make the most educated guess I could based off the info i had and i ended up unclip unclipping the harness as suggested..I turned the ignition on (but didn't start the car) I set my multimeter to what I believe to be ohms (my manual labels it as "resistance"-it says 2000 followed by the lil Greek symbol)and I touched the black probe to pin 4(bottom)& the red one to pin 1(top) and got nothing. No movement in reading. So I decided to try testing the corresponding inputs on the wire harness and again nothing. I'm not sure if this means my TPS is no good, or if it's my TPS testing skills that are no good lol. I was going to use sewing needles to backwire test it but idk where to stick what (lol "that's what he said"-sry, I couldn't resist)..my wire colors from top to bottom are, grey w/white stripe,black w/green possibly yellow stripe,red w/green stripe,&what I believe used to be yellow w/white many many years ago but now looks more like off white w/a less dingy white stripe lol) so if you can inform me if I have tested it correctly and it is just dead OR if not, how the heck to do this.. I'm always apprehensive in sticking metal objects into places w/electrical current as I've been electrocuted before (not just shocked, electrocuted. I probably would've died if it wasnt for my older brothers friend joey&his handy Halloween decorative broom lol) &its sooo not fun. I think what I'm supposed to do is leave the harness clip plugged in,stick a sewing needle into the back of the 2nd wire (black) and one into the bottom wire (whatever color that is, I'll call him the confused yellow wire) turn the ignition on, set my multimeter to read DC volts, touch the red probe to the bottom needle and the black probe to the other needle (2nd/black)....am I right or did theoretical me just get frizzly fried? 🤯 lol
Oh&the only reason why I say to use a sewing needle is cuz the probes on my multimeter are suuuper stubby

Help....:cautious:
 

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For someone with no prior experience fixing cars and a female in what's typically a man's hobby/industry(cars/auto mechanics) I'm impressed with your good grasp on troubleshooting and understanding diagnosis. You also have no fear to do it yourself and a desire to learn.
So, with the heat of the middle of the day and less than a full tank of gas your problem tends to happen. I would guess that it might be fuel related like a weak fuel pump or bad FRP sensor but you're not getting any fuel codes at least not since they were cleared.
The heat of the day issue also makes me think of my 3V engine problem and it turned out to be bad VCT solenoids(they were cheap aftermarket ones). On very hot days and when doing stop/go driving it would go into limp mode just like yours does. My theory was the hotter engine and oil affected the crappy quality solenoids as they were more sensitive than the Motorcraft ones. Though, I can't remember exactly what codes were being registered whatever they were definitely weren't your codes so this probably isn't your issue anyway.
Your throttle woes might be the accelerator pedal/sensor, TPS sensor, throttle body, or any of the wiring or plugs to them. Sometimes the plug connector to the TB gets corrosion on the pins or the connector can loosen up or warp from time/heat. Check the wiring for any damage as well.
The P2106 usually just means that the car has gone into limp mode. However, it can also mean that the throttle actuator control system has a problem. Since you also have the P2135 it would seem to me that this is actually the case.
Okay, so patience is a virtue I dont have so I just went ahead and attempted testing it as I outlined previously.. and again I got nothing. No reading what so ever. I thought maybe the needles weren't in far enough &therefore not touching the metal in the wires so I repositioned them at approx 45° angle, digging in towards the center,still not sure if I reached metal or not cuz the reading once again never changed..I'm at a loss 😔 ...

why does this car stuff have to be (Moderated) complicating? It's not as simple as "this" is broken&here's how you fix it...noooooope..its like, your (Moderated) up, it could be "this","this","this", or "that"..if its "this" it could be caused by "x","l","s","v", or, "t"&each one of those has 15 potential repairs that may or may not work-out most likely they wont. I honestly feel like the car Gods did it on purpose just so they could sit up there&get a good laugh out of watching us play "Russian roulette repairs" w/our cars lol everytime something happens to my car I honestly feel like I'm entering into a lottery w/the worst possible odds you can imagine...& luck def doesnt follow me. I'm pretty sure that luck either doesnt know I exist or it finds my foul language & inappropriate humor unbearable &therefore avoids me like Carl avoids urkel in family matters lol.

If it does turn out that I need a new TPS, you said not to get any of the cheap aftermarket ones, to go with a genuine motorcraft one..would you say its safe to purchase a used genuine motorcraft one pulled off of a wrecked car if it's guaranteed to be in working condition? Because to buy a brand new one is a tad pricey compared to others(aftermarket)but of course I'd rather spend more to know that itll work rather than spend less&be unsure..but if I can get away w/purchasing a used one to save some $ that would be fantastic..

I'm aware that there are some parts that you can safely buy used & there are those that you can/should not, I just dont know exactly what parts fit into which if those 2 categories lol. I'm a thrifty (Moderated). finding things for cheaper is basically my super power.. HOWEVER, this doesn't always result in me spending the least amount of money cuz theres some corners you just shouldnt cut, this is me trying my best to avoid such a situation w/my car. Basically, if you happen to be a car parts salesman, this is your chance to wring me dry & I'd be none the wiser lol although I'm going to politely request you refrain from such choices lol pls.

No but seriously, can I buy the TPS &/or the PPS used? Should I test the PPS first beforehand? If so, how do I do that? You're totally more than welcome to make a detailed instructional step by step video or pictorial if you'd like..I wouldnt mind. I'd be all ears...or eyes. Or both..lol 😉
 

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I think what I'm supposed to do is leave the harness clip plugged in,stick a sewing needle into the back of the 2nd wire (black) and one into the bottom wire (whatever color that is, I'll call him the confused yellow wire) turn the ignition on, set my multimeter to read DC volts, touch the red probe to the bottom needle and the black probe to the other needle (2nd/black)....am I right or did theoretical me just get frizzly fried? 🤯 lol
Yes, that's right. Set your multimeter to volts and probe the bottom (yellow) wire on the TPS harness. You should see between 1.19 and 1.31 volts with key on/engine off. (169) 2005 mustang throttle sensor voltage?? | Ford Mustang Forum (allfordmustangs.com)
If your probes aren't pointed enough to touch the pins in the plug/connector then using sewing needles to reach them is fine. Just don't let them tough each other once they're in the wires or connector.
I don't think this test necessarily rules it out though as explained in the link. I don't know the exact procedure for testing the TPS. A few people may know exactly how but searching for it yourself is going to be the best way to find out. The TPS sensor definitely seems like your most likely problem. Only buy a Ford Motorcraft new one:
2005 FORD MUSTANG 4.6L V8 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) | RockAuto
or Motorcraft® DY1164 - Throttle Position Sensor (carid.com)
or some legit ones are on Ebay motorcraft dy1164 | eBay
or if you want to gamble with Amazon Amazon.com: Motorcraft DY1164 Throttle Position Sensor : Automotive

For responses you'll sometimes have to wait for hours or even the next day.

You can't get electrocuted on anything on a car except for the coil outputs, spark plug wires(on older cars), or spark plugs if the ignition is on. Everything else is just 12v and no danger whatsoever.

Frustration is understandable but the more complex cars get the harder they can be to diagnose. In some ways though it's easier since with all the sensors there are ways to rule things in/out from testing and the overall convenience of OBDII.
 

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Before cars had ECUs, mechanics had to be good to precisely diagnose a problem with any degree of precision. They had to rely on their senses, experience, and often had to use ingenuity to fix problems.
Nowadays they call themselves auto technicians, use scanners to find fault codes, throw parts at a problem instead of diagnosing it, and replace parts instead of repairing/refurbishing them. How times have changed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It's Omega, the last letter of the Greek alphabet, and it looks like Ω. :D
Ya that thing. Hey where'd you find that symbol at... I was looking for it but it seems that either my keyboard has lost it or my brain cant find it
Yes, that's right. Set your multimeter to volts and probe the bottom (yellow) wire on the TPS harness. You should see between 1.19 and 1.31 volts with key on/engine off. (169) 2005 mustang throttle sensor voltage?? | Ford Mustang Forum (allfordmustangs.com)
If your probes aren't pointed enough to touch the pins in the plug/connector then using sewing needles to reach them is fine. Just don't let them tough each other once they're in the wires or connector.
I don't think this test necessarily rules it out though as explained in the link. I don't know the exact procedure for testing the TPS. A few people may know exactly how but searching for it yourself is going to be the best way to find out. The TPS sensor definitely seems like your most likely problem. Only buy a Ford Motorcraft new one:
2005 FORD MUSTANG 4.6L V8 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) | RockAuto
or Motorcraft® DY1164 - Throttle Position Sensor (carid.com)
or some legit ones are on Ebay motorcraft dy1164 | eBay
or if you want to gamble with Amazon Amazon.com: Motorcraft DY1164 Throttle Position Sensor : Automotive

For responses you'll sometimes have to wait for hours or even the next day.

You can't get electrocuted on anything on a car except for the coil outputs, spark plug wires(on older cars), or spark plugs if the ignition is on. Everything else is just 12v and no danger whatsoever.

Frustration is understandable but the more complex cars get the harder they can be to diagnose. In some ways though it's easier since with all the sensors there are ways to rule things in/out from testing and the overall convenience of OBDII.
That is very true which is why I decided to purchase my own OBDII reader. and thanks, that def puts my mind at ease about the whole electrocution thing. Idk if I ever came back and updated or not but I went ahead and attempted the testing procedure as outlined and I got no reading. Nothing whatsoever. If the TPS is faulty, is this what I would see? Meaning, if it normal to get no movement whatsoever on my multimeter if the TPS is bad, or should I see a reading of some sort regardless but just not within the given range? Getting those sewing needles in was much more difficult than anticipated lol.. but I thought I had gotten them thru I felt a small "pop" (not "pop" as in electricity or anything lol but more like it was difficult to push in&then it gave way) which made me thing I made it thru the outer insulation and therefore was on the innards where all the magic happens(or is supposed to,anyway lol) I felt this on both wires..but there was no magic 😔 there was nothing. &it sucks cuz I was certain that testing it would provide some clarity but all I got was more confusion lol. I should probably just go ahead and purchase a new TPS at this point right? I mean, it cant hurt, can it? Should I just go ahead and also replace the PPS while I'm at it since I got codes for both those things? And I apologize, I haven't seen a used TPS for sale lol it was the PPS..would this part be safe to buy used or aftermarket?
As for swapping coils, do I have to first clear the codes that I have or does it not matter?

P.S. thank you for specifying not to let the needles touch. I was already aware of this but that doesnt mean everyone else will be as well. I see it so often where people are suggesting that people do these tests/repairs but completely negate to specify the seemingly common sense safety precautions..I assume this is probably because they already "know" the person who they're speaking to but the thing is, these forums are public. So in reality, you're not only speaking to the person you're addressing directly, you're indirectly speaking to potentially the entire world and I'm fairly certain that not everyone in the entire world, is going to know everything lol. So its best to be safe. I really appreciate that
 

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If you had it set on volts and it registered 0 with the ignition on/engine off then that means it's likely no good.
I have no idea what you mean by PPS. Are you talking about the accelerator pedal sensor? Just do one at a time. There's no need to waste $. The TPS is the more likely candidate.
If that doesn't fix it then the accelerator pedal(comes with sensor) should be next. That you can buy used. Ebay will probably have a bunch of them. 2005-10 uses the same pedal apparently.
If you buy a new one then it seems that Standard Motor Products APS264 is the one you need. It's about $148 on rockauto: RockAuto
However, on Ebay a few Ford dealers are selling the original Motorcraft one for as little as $110: 4r3z9f836ba | eBay Therefore, I don't see why anyone would buy an aftermarket pedal if the genuine Ford is cheaper. I would contact the seller to make sure the fitment is correct because idk with certainty that either of these are the right part #s.
 

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I have no idea what you mean by PPS. Are you talking about the accelerator pedal sensor?
PPS could be (Moderated) pervert syndrome ;) but seriously, it's the pedal position sensor.

Ya that thing. Hey where'd you find that symbol at... I was looking for it but it seems that either my keyboard has lost it or my brain cant find it.
I have a Greek keyboard app on my smartphone, and the Greek language pack installed on my laptop. That way when I'm corresponding in Greek, I can type Greek letters instead of using Greeklish (Greek words typed with English letters). ;)
 
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