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I work with people who speak Franglish and Spanglish but I never heard of Greeklish until just now . . . I guess it works the same way, LOL

no offense to my French and Spanish-speaking friends, like I always say: "your English is a lot better than my French (or Spanish)"
 
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PPS could be (Moderated) pervert syndrome ;) but seriously, it's the pedal position sensor.
It was a rhetorical question. I figured that she meant the pedal sensor as I stated so in the next sentence but the abbreviation wasn't really an accepted one for that part. The general car industry calls it the accelerator pedal sensor or accelerator pedal position sensor. Ford themselves call it the pedal travel sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Before cars had ECUs, mechanics had to be good to precisely diagnose a problem with any degree of precision. They had to rely on their senses, experience, and often had to use ingenuity to fix problems.
Nowadays they call themselves auto technicians, use scanners to find fault codes, throw parts at a problem instead of diagnosing it, and replace parts instead of repairing/refurbishing them. How times have changed.
It wasnt until recently that I started getting into cars and wanting to learn the actual mechanics of a car and even with all of the technology available to me in order to do this, I'm still finding it to be not the easiest thing in the world. I'm not trying to up-talk myself in anyway, but I'm typically a very fast learner & have always been able to more or less "self-teach" (I use this for lack of a better term lol) but this isn't easy. What I find fascinating about cars is the level of simultaneous simplicity & complexity, meaning, that the actual mechanics of how each part operates independently of one another, is pretty straight forward for the most part. However, when all these independent parts are working together as a collective whole, is when things tend to get a bit more complicated lol.

Ever since starting on this venture of learning how to work on my own car, I've gained so much more respect & appreciation for mechanics (or auto technician lol) than I previously had. A lot people don't realize the level of knowledge & skill required to be a legitimately good mechanic. However, I must also add, that not all mechanics are good mechanics, & it seems as though the majority of the ones you'll find working today, fall into this category. And strangely, I appreciate every last one of them. Because without those experiences, I never would've began trying to work on my own car, & I would've continued to under-appreciate those that are true masters of their skill. I couldn't imagine being a pre-tech mechanic OR even a diy enthusiast. That thought legitimately scares me lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
If you had it set on volts and it registered 0 with the ignition on/engine off then that means it's likely no good.
I have no idea what you mean by PPS. Are you talking about the accelerator pedal sensor? Just do one at a time. There's no need to waste $. The TPS is the more likely candidate.
If that doesn't fix it then the accelerator pedal(comes with sensor) should be next. That you can buy used. Ebay will probably have a bunch of them. 2005-10 uses the same pedal apparently.
If you buy a new one then it seems that Standard Motor Products APS264 is the one you need. It's about $148 on rockauto: RockAuto
However, on Ebay a few Ford dealers are selling the original Motorcraft one for as little as $110: 4r3z9f836ba | eBay Therefore, I don't see why anyone would buy an aftermarket pedal if the genuine Ford is cheaper. I would contact the seller to make sure the fitment is correct because idk with certainty that either of these are the right part #s.
By PPS I meant pedal position sensor...is that not a thing? I'm totally not surprised. The only reason why I was wandering if I should go ahead and replace that too is due to the codes that I got mentioned each of these parts. So I kind of figured it meant they were both bad? Again, the codes I got were P2106, P2135, & P0302. Could a faulty TPS cause both of those codes? I'm not convinced that I've accurately checked my TPS to be honest, but at this point, I suppose it doesn't really matter considering I just received my new one. Unless it actually turns out to be the wiring harness that's faulty.

Just to clarify..to backwire test the TPS, I'm supposed to probe the bottom yellow wire on the TPS w/my multimeter red probe and the multimeters black probe goes to ground? This is where I'm confused...by ground, do you mean the ground on the TPS (which I assume to be the black wire-which I believe is cord 3) maybe 2 idk. I'm not actually looking at it right now, its one of the 2 center ones and its black. a grounding point somewhere on the chassis or by simply connecting it to the neg terminal on the battery? This is where I get lost.

Also, do you reccomend I clean the throttle body on or off the car? I'm supposed to unhook the negative terminal before doing so, correct? I read somewhere that if you disconnect both the + & - terminal & put a wiring clip that connects the both of them, that this will save you from having to do the seemingly weird random steps for the computer to relearn everything its needs to..is this true? And if so, am I to connect the clip before removing the terminals? After removing the negative but before removing the positive or after I've already removed both?

Also, is there anything that I need to do about the codes before I put on the new TPS? Meaning, do I need to clear the codes before I attempt to install the new one, after I install it, or does it not matter? Same question for testing to see if the coil pack in cylinder 2 is bad or not..(which I dont think it is, I was getting a misfire reading in both 2&8 so I replaced the plugs and coil packs in all 8 cylinders but am still getting the misfire code in 2)do I first have to clear the codes before swapping it with another? Does it matter which cylinder i swap it with? And just to be clear the cylinder numbers are,starting from the front of the car working towards the back.. 1,2,3,4 for the passenger side and 5,6,7,8 for the driver side..again working from front to back. So if you popped the hood and were looking at the engine, cylinder 2 is going to be on the left hand side 2nd cylinder up from me? I just want to make sure I've got this correct lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
It was a rhetorical question. I figured that she meant the pedal sensor as I stated so in the next sentence but the abbreviation wasn't really an accepted one for that part. The general car industry calls it the accelerator pedal sensor or accelerator pedal position sensor. Ford themselves call it the pedal travel sensor.
But why you gotta make me feel stupid if you did indeed know what I was talking about? 🤷‍♀️😔

It's all good though, I like my choice much better...yours are a bit overcomplicated when communicating via keyboard rather than verbally... I would never actually say "PPS" or even "TPS" for that matter when talking to someone verbally or in person lol (just like I would never verbalize "lol" either- I swear, I really don't!) But thank you for letting me know that I was wrong, in your very round about way. I love learning new things

Just curious though.. if i would've said APS or APPS (abbreviations of the terms that you refer to as being "acceptable" by the "general car industry") rather than PPS... Would you have had the same response?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Sorry I realize my posts are probably much too long for anyone to want to read(especially dudes) lol so I'm going to TRY to keep it brief/to the point&as accurate as possible

1) to test the TPS-red probe on multimeter goes to yellow bottom wire on TPS..black multimeter probe goes where exactly? Grounding point on chassis? Neg terminal on battery? Or "grounding" wire on the TPS(black wire, I think?)

2)when replacing the TPS is there anything I should know/be aware of or steps I should take before/after the install? Should I clear the codes before I install the new TPS?after? Or is it irrelevant? Do I disconnect the neg terminal on my battery before the install? Is it a basic straight forward swap out sort of repair when installing a new TPS(unhook wiring harness, loosen bolts, remove sensor, replace with new sensor,tighten bolts,reattach harness&done-thats what I mean by basic&straight forward) or are there certain specs/calibrations I should be aware of? Does the computer have to relearn anything after this install? If so, how do I get it to do that?

3)any recommendations on cleaning the throttle body? Should I even worry about it? If so, is it best to do it while it's on the car or should I first remove it? Is it safe to remove it to clean it? Basically, is there anything that I can potentially maybe flub up if I were to choose to remove it to clean it/would I be better off just leaving it be?

4)as for testing the coils in cylinder 2..again, should I first erase the codes before making the swap to test it or does it not matter? Is there a particular cylinder I should be swapping it with? If it turns out the coil is fine(if I'm still getting a misfire reading in cylinder 2 despite swapping packs)should I then perform the same test on the plugs? If so, I have the same exact questions for the plugs as I did for the coils..

Again, I'm so very sorry for all the questions. I promise, my intent is not to irritate, I'm not trying to be cute,or anything of that sort. These are things I really dont know but genuinely want to know..these are questions that I haven't been able to find answers to on my own elsewhere, but it's not due to lack of effort, I assure you. So thank you in advance to anyone who is kind enough to actually read another one of my novels&willing to lend their advice to me. Seriously. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Okay so I wasnt getting any luck with the whole backwire testing using a sewing needle.. I decided to unclip the harness and test the wiring harness itself and the results i got didn't really help me much but maybe some of you can help it make sense lol
With my multimeter set to volts I put the black probe on the black wire of the harness(2nd wire down) and the red probe to the bottom yellow wire and continuously got a reading of only 3.. when I moved the red probe to the top very top grey wire but left the black where it was, i continuously got not a darn thing.
I decided to try to test it a different way by putting the black probe on the negative terminal of the battery and using the red probe to test both the bottom& top wire (separately, of course lol)while still testing in volts and got a 4 for the bottom wire (bottom 2 wires both gave me a read out of 4 actually) and the top 1 gave me a read out of 9. The strange thing is, initially they all gave me a read out that bounced between 9&10..but I've since done it many many times and its stayed consistent at the readouts I first mentioned.
Just in case it was important or relevant in any way, I decided to go ahead and run the same test I just did using the battery as ground but instead tested it in ohm? I think. On my multimeter its labeled as 2000(greek omega horse shoe looking symbol) I put the red probe to the top wire and got about 1875 and when I put the red probe to the bottom wire I got about 1970.. when I attempted to put it to the other 2 it beeped at me and I got terrified and ended my science experiment lol in my defense, the beep was rather loud. I sincerely hope it's not possible for me to flub anything up by just probing as I please to see what reads what lol
Although I do have a brand new TPS I wanted to first make sure it wasnt the wiring harness that's the issue as I do seem to have other electrical situations going on w/the car. Like, for example, everytime I turn the key over before actually cranking it, my speakers pop...and it's super loud&even more obnoxious..you legit think you just got shot..minus the actually getting shot part lol. I'm absolutely delighted when new ppl get into my car for the first time just to wait for their reaction..it NEVER gets old. Ever lol. It kinda makes me sad to want to fix it..kinda. I know it has to with some voltage conversion issue 12v to 5v or vice versa, I dont really know exactly per se lol one thing at a time here...but since theres other electrical issues I thought maybe the wiring harness could be bad too? Any thought? Input? Info? Advice? Anything?


Someone?
Pls 🙏 pretty pls w/a super charged mustang (or whatever it is you're into) on top?
Disclaimer:I will not actually be giving away any super charged mustangs or [whatever it is you're into]s -its just a figure of speech.
But seriously, help me. Pls?
 

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1) Black probe you can touch to any bare metal surface on the chasis of the car or if the lead is long enough touch it directly to the neg battery terminal.
2) Replacing TPS sensor video:
3)Cleaning once a year should be good.
How to video:
Re-calibration after cleaning:
4)Clear the codes before the swap. Doesn't matter which one you swap it with, but usually one next to it is easier. Cylinders are numbered Bank 1 (passenger) front to back 1-4; Bank 2
(driver) front to back 5-8.
Yes,if still the same, you can do the same with the plugs.
To answer an earlier question, codes only point you in a general direction, but not neccesarily the root problem. Understanding how a system works helps to test and narrow down a problematic component(s). As I said early on, a faulty TP sensor theoretically can cause a 2106 (limp mode) code if the TP sensor is sending an "out of range" voltage signal back to the ECM, especially if its a signal for wide open throttle and the pedal isn't depressed. Limp mode is a safety feature. If it were me, I'd just go ahead and replace the TP sensor.

Keep the questions coming. For self educating; Brian (FordTechMakuloco) makes by far the best DIYer videos for Ford products.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
1) Black probe you can touch to any bare metal surface on the chasis of the car or if the lead is long enough touch it directly to the neg battery terminal.
2) Replacing TPS sensor video:
3)Cleaning once a year should be good.
How to video:
Re-calibration after cleaning:
4)Clear the codes before the swap. Doesn't matter which one you swap it with, but usually one next to it is easier. Cylinders are numbered Bank 1 (passenger) front to back 1-4; Bank 2
(driver) front to back 5-8.
Yes,if still the same, you can do the same with the plugs.
To answer an earlier question, codes only point you in a general direction, but not neccesarily the root problem. Understanding how a system works helps to test and narrow down a problematic component(s). As I said early on, a faulty TP sensor theoretically can cause a 2106 (limp mode) code if the TP sensor is sending an "out of range" voltage signal back to the ECM, especially if its a signal for wide open throttle and the pedal isn't depressed. Limp mode is a safety feature. If it were me, I'd just go ahead and replace the TP sensor.

Keep the questions coming. For self educating; Brian (FordTechMakuloco) makes by far the best DIYer videos for Ford products.
Omg THANK YOU. Youre awesome! I love you!
I love you.
I love you!
Did I mention, I freaking love you!!
No but seriously thank you so much I really appreciate it.

I'm not sure if you've seen/read it or not but I did already test it in the way that you described and the reading I got was 4 for the bottom and 9 for the top...? This was me testing the wire harness ONLY tho as I just wasnt having any luck trying to backwire test it... maybe cuz it means the TPS is booty 🤦‍♀️ lol idk. Shouldnt I get some sort of reading when backwire testing it since I'm getting a reading from the harness itself while not connected to the sensor or is that not how it works?

Thank you for the videos..I've actually already seen that throttle body cleaning one and was feeling super confident about doing it until I read one post where this guy Eric was like "YOU SHOULD NEVER EVER CLEAN YOUR THROTTLE BODY UNLESS YOU WANT MESS THINGS UP!" well not EXACTLY like that but basically that's what I read lol so I was back to square one all over again... it amazes me how it takes soooooo many videos, write ups, posts, and advice from many different individuals in order to make me feel confident in doing something but it always only takes 1 single one of any of those to completely take it all away....just like that..its like, my logical brain knows better but my emotional brain just doesnt get it.. emotional brain=connor McGregor logical brain=David spade.
Logic just doesnt stand a chance here lol
 

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Just curious though.. if i would've said APS or APPS (abbreviations of the terms that you refer to as being "acceptable" by the "general car industry") rather than PPS... Would you have had the same response?
If I have to research what an abbreviation means or try to figure it out by rereading a post that spelled it out properly beforehand then perhaps I would have but in the APS or APPS case probably not since it would have been more appropriate. However, I was trying to make it a point that abbreviations aren't always helpful. The accelerator pedal sensor isn't a part that's mentioned very much because they aren't a part that fails often so abbreviating it won't help others recognize what you mean. TPS is a widely recognized and common abbreviation though.

The videos that Jeremy Weigel posted are pretty much Ford gospel since FordTechMakuloco should not be questioned. He was a Marine motor transport mechanic, specifically a quality control mechanic, and then a Ford Master Technician for 10 years. He's the most thorough and intelligent mechanic that I've ever seen. Comments by less intelligent or educated people on his videos saying that he's doing something wrong are likely bs. As a Marine mechanic being wrong could easily end up with him in jail. No one is infallible but he's close when it comes to wrenching on a Ford.

And yes it would be better if you made less lengthy posts. Many people will see a long post and just X out of it. With all the threads being started on this site only so much time is available to us.
If you have another issue going on then please start a new thread. I'm not trying to be mean or anything. I just want to make it easier and better for you and everyone else that navigates this site.
 

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Following up if you've made any progress.
 
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
If I have to research what an abbreviation means or try to figure it out by rereading a post that spelled it out properly beforehand then perhaps I would have but in the APS or APPS case probably not since it would have been more appropriate. However, I was trying to make it a point that abbreviations aren't always helpful. The accelerator pedal sensor isn't a part that's mentioned very much because they aren't a part that fails often so abbreviating it won't help others recognize what you mean. TPS is a widely recognized and common abbreviation though.

The videos that Jeremy Weigel posted are pretty much Ford gospel since FordTechMakuloco should not be questioned. He was a Marine motor transport mechanic, specifically a quality control mechanic, and then a Ford Master Technician for 10 years. He's the most thorough and intelligent mechanic that I've ever seen. Comments by less intelligent or educated people on his videos saying that he's doing something wrong are likely bs. As a Marine mechanic being wrong could easily end up with him in jail. No one is infallible but he's close when it comes to wrenching on a Ford.

And yes it would be better if you made less lengthy posts. Many people will see a long post and just X out of it. With all the threads being started on this site only so much time is available to us.
If you have another issue going on then please start a new thread. I'm not trying to be mean or anything. I just want to make it easier and better for you and everyone else that navigates this site.
Noted. Thank you. And ya, I had already seen some of the videos from FordTechMakuloco and it's very apparent that he indeed does know exactly what he is talking about. Even a noob like me could tell. He was never the one that I was questioning/doubting. That was all directed inwards. I questioned &began to doubt whether I was accurate in my understanding of the information I had been presented with. Lol. But it really does help tremendously when someone who is much more versed& knowledgeable on the topic is able to verify the merit of a specific source. I'll be sure to use his channel first as the first source of guidance from now on.
You advised me to start new threads for new topics..what do you mean exactly? Like, in regards to my post? Or was it just a general suggestion? Should I have posted a seperate thread for each of the individual diagnostic codes that I received or......?
 

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You advised me to start new threads for new topics..what do you mean exactly? Like, in regards to my post? Or was it just a general suggestion? Should I have posted a seperate thread for each of the individual diagnostic codes that I received or......?
You’re doing fine. I’m glad you’re making progress and learning. If something goes way off track, I’ll fix it when I see it or one of the other mods will.

Basically, when you have a NEW problem to tackle, just make a new thread. Nothing to stress over… If something needs tweaking and goes unnoticed, just click the report button and one of us will notice then ;)
 
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Noted. Thank you. And ya, I had already seen some of the videos from FordTechMakuloco and it's very apparent that he indeed does know exactly what he is talking about. Even a noob like me could tell. He was never the one that I was questioning/doubting. That was all directed inwards. I questioned &began to doubt whether I was accurate in my understanding of the information I had been presented with. Lol. But it really does help tremendously when someone who is much more versed& knowledgeable on the topic is able to verify the merit of a specific source. I'll be sure to use his channel first as the first source of guidance from now on.
You advised me to start new threads for new topics..what do you mean exactly? Like, in regards to my post? Or was it just a general suggestion? Should I have posted a seperate thread for each of the individual diagnostic codes that I received or......?
I was just referring to the commenters on his youtube videos. The majority of people criticizing or questioning Brian(FordTechMakuloco) on youtube more than likely know little about car mechanics so I wouldn't have any doubts about him regardless of what the extremely few critics of his may say.
crjackson explained it as I understand the basic protocol. Only new car problems really warrant new threads, that's all I meant. Anything related to what you're already asking about is perfectly fine on the same thread though. I thought I saw you mention another unrelated car issue but I might have been thinking about another thread as I go back and forth between them sometimes idk. My apologies if this was the case.
You're a very quick learner and methodical in your approach as well. You have my respect for whatever that's worth.

So did you replace your TPS yet? If so, we're curious if it fixed it.
 
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