Alright guys, i'm about to pull the trigger on some long tubes and I have a few questions.
1) Is there any real advantage to going "bigger" 1 7/8ths" vs 1 3/4"s? (when $$$ allows, i do plan on doing a supercharger, ported heads, a built bottom end ..possible stroker kit... and cams)
2) i have a bassani x pipe currently, and wanted to use bassani for that reason, but havent heard too many reviews of them
3) Is there any real hp gain on one brand vs another?
4) why are they sooo DAMN EXPENSIVE!!!????? lol (jk you dont have to answer that lol)
5) Catted vs No catt? any hp advantage? Can u "trick" the comp into not throwing a check engine light (NY state does not use an exhaust sniffer , but u must plug into the obdII port to check for CEL)
Just spend the extra money and buy the 1 7/8, when you do the other mods listed you will get better performance especially if you go with the super charger… Good luck on the bassani x pipe, it will not connect to the headers unless you get out a torch and a welder to make it fit… Sell it on Craig’s list… Headers come with their own H or X pipe made to fit and connect to the factory exhaust pipe…
HP gain… If both sets of headers are tuned and the same length it is more than likely minuet in the difference…
Header choice of brands… Kooks long tubes should be called a mid-length header and not a long tube… fit like a glove but length wise, longer then shorty’s and shorter than full length headers…
If cost is an issue, go with BBK Silver Ceramic… lowest price header on the market and like I said above the H or X pipe you chose must be made for the headers unless you want to spend a waste of time to make it fit…
Cats or no cats; I live in the Denver metro and they check the obdII, for this I went with the high flow cats that come with the Kooks... No matter what tune I used unless it had the rear o2 sensors turned off, with-in a couple of days of install or error clear, I received the engine code for catalyst efficiency threshold error… So to fix this… I was tired of clearing the code, I went with some 18 mm non-spark plug fouler and installed them between the exhaust pipe and the o2 sensor… No DTC’s yet…
I was skeptical at first of the 1 7/8 on the 5.0 but I was use to the 1 5/8 on old Fox 5.0 cars after installing ARH 1 7/8 I can tell you this baby likes the big primaries.
Same here. ARH said in their back to back testing the 1 7/8 always outperformed the 1 3/4. If your already spending the money and donig the install, you might as well go big. I have the offroad version with Magnaflow comp catback and it's really loud. I like it, but it's not my daily either. No drone on a couple of 2hr + drives. GL!
Do not use cats if you are planning on using a supercharger/turbocharger/nitrous. It is not worth it! I have 1 7/8" into 3" collectors and X pipe with cats(no FI plans in future), then into the factory over axle and mufflers. The sound is quiet in normal driving, but under WOT it's a lot louder. The power down low is amazing, I can use only 4th gear to pull away from 40-110 in a little over 10 seconds.
Do not use cats if you are planning on using a supercharger/turbocharger/nitrous. It is not worth it! I have 1 7/8" into 3" collectors and X pipe with cats(no FI plans in future), then into the factory over axle and mufflers. The sound is quiet in normal driving, but under WOT it's a lot louder. The power down low is amazing, I can use only 4th gear to pull away from 40-110 in a little over 10 seconds.
Even with the high flow cats it's throwing a "catalyst below threshold" code, p0420 and p0430. Not certain if you can find true LT's with cats that won't throw a code. With your future FI plans I would find a way around your emissions testing and forgo the cats.
You guys are right on the money:bigthumbsup no cats with FI
not saying it cant be done,I just would not run them with forced induction(dont ask me why)
back when I had hf cats and stock manifolds I indeed threw a code and had to turn off rear o2 sensors.
I would plan my mods and if you dont go with a supercharger I would stick to the stock headers and a good 3" catback with CAI and tune.
It would be a big hassle to go longtubes and not pass smog and have to remove them.
I have the SW 1 7/8" catted LT headers and complete exhaust. Only issue I had was a faulty front sensor which threw the CEL. Once replaced the CEL and code went away.
I have the SW 1 7/8" catted LT headers and complete exhaust. Only issue I had was a faulty front sensor which threw the CEL. Once replaced the CEL and code went away.
Sorry to hijack...I was thinking the same setup when I get my ride...any drone with your setup?
OP, here in Cali, our smog laws are worse than yours...just keep your stock tune so you have it available when you go get a smog check and restore to your stock exhaust system...that's what I'll do...sure it's a hassle, but it'll only take a day to do the swap then put your hi-flow system back on after the check and upload your more aggressive tune.
I would like long tubes but Im not pulling a new car apart. As for expensive. Those modifications that you listed at the start of the thread will cost a whole lot more than headers right ? :winks
Not complaining about the high cost, more complaints about the "value".. 1600 is a lot for some pipes welded together.. (And yes i know there is research and development behind them, and labor and materials, and they yield great hp returns, but COME ON GUYS... go buy a set of long tubes for a SBC, or SBF and you'll pay less then a third of that)
It depends what your long terms plans are. If you plan on having 500 or more rwhp then headers are a good investment as you will need exhaust to match input power.
this will not bolt up to the factory x/h pipe, will need to add JBA's specific h/x pipe, which will add to the total cost. The LT's are not cheap, but if you want to stay NA and make more power they are a must.
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