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1965 Ford Mustang, C code, Automatic
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Help required: 1965 missing data plate.

VIN: 5R07C185864

This is what the car currently has fitted, not sure if original.
C code 289, 2bbl carb
Wimbledon White
Standard Black Interior
3 Speed Automatic (C4)
3 Speed heater (non a/c)

That’s about all I have on this vehicle, brought in Seattle shipped home to New Zealand where it has been in storage for a extended period of time. Any info greatly appreciated.

NZMatt
 

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Welcome Matt, and thank you for joining ALLFORDMUSTANGS!
Please read the Site Rules and be sure to complete your Account Settings.
We are glad you have chosen to be a part of our community and we hope you enjoy your stay.
 
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A gentle bump. Please don’t Crosspost again.
 
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1965 Ford Mustang, C code, Automatic
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited by Moderator)
Anyone have an idea on this number that is located on the top of the engine block at the rear?
A4F493A2-C687-4DE0-A57F-2B3F7746DD07.jpeg

This is the tag that was on my automatic transmission on the right hand side above the drain plug. Is there a way I can decode this?
7B7E7550-51B9-4E21-B4DB-F9A331BEBFB2.jpeg
Regards

Matt
 

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Hey NZMatt,
Hello to another fellow San Jose owner!
I have a copy of the MUSTANG production guide by Jim Smart and Jim Haskell 1st Edition 1994
I did a bit of searching for you and this is what I found, hopefully this is all correct
as I too had a San Jose car with no door tag and had to get this book to sort mine out.

VIN: 5R07C185864


5 -1965
R - San Jose CA Assembly plant
07 - Hardtop coupe
C - 289-v8 low compression/reg fuel/hydraulic lifter engine
185864 - consecutive build number - Book says since 1965 was simply a continuation of 1964 1/2, consecutive unit numbers
at both Dearborn and San Jose continued without a return to 100001.
Effective Aug 1, 1964 San Jose units transition from the 104000 series to 125000.

(from your description of the interior/body colors)

Body Style codes: 65A -Hardtop Coupe / standard interior

Color code: Wimbledon White was code M

Interior Trim code: Black Vinyl - 26

Interior Decor Group: Black - 66

Date Code: (will guesstimate from before and after vin numbers)

DSO code: Identical to 1964 1/2 codes: Seattle - code is 74

Axle codes:

odds are its a Conventional axle and not a limited slip, you may can jack up the car and count the driveshaft to wheel spins and ballpark the
rear diff.

1 - 3.00:1 (my best guess on engine/transmission you have it may be one of these)
2 - 2.83:1 (my best guess on engine/transmission you have it may be one of these)
3 - 3.20:1 (my best guess on engine/transmission you have it may be one of these)
4 - not listed
5 - 3.50:1
6 - 2.80:1 (my best guess on engine/transmission you have it may be one of these) -Note: I had a 71' 302 2v C4 with this axle
7 - not listed
8 - 3:89:1
9 - 4.11:1

Transmission code: 6 - C4 Dual-Range Cruise-O-Matic

Ballparking YOUR car's build date from the "before and after Vin's listed" vins:

5r09a 185737 : datecode 12B -- B= Friday, February 12th, 1965 (googled what day was Feb 12 1965)
5r08c 186626 : datecode 15B -- B= Monday, February 15th, 1965

The book shows a few other Vins listed but no other data for them, so I had to use the first known vin (with info)
before yours and one after yours to get a window of time.
My guess was it built on Friday from what I can see in the book on built vin's and dates provided.
The 186000 vins show Monday's date, the 185000's show Thursday/Friday dates with the 185700's with a Friday date.

Hey hope that helps!
Please excuse any mistakes here, just a fellow San Jose owner with a book trying to help.

T
 

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1965 Ford Mustang, C code, Automatic
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited by Moderator)
T,
Thankyou so much for putting in the effort to provide an insight to my car’s history. Invaluable I tell you now knowing less the axle code. I can now get a replacement door tag produced. Also I can can on to restoring her to her former glory.
I just need to decode the above pictures to get more of an understanding of the car.
Thanks again for your time, very much appreciated.

Regards,

NZMatt
 

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hey NZMatt, you're welcome!
I too was in the same situation, so I had to take what I had and try to figure out the codes, on my car 66' Gt Fastback, Emberglow with Emberglow and Parchment interior was fun because
they also did a Parchment with Emberglow appointments and (unknown to me at the time) used a "dark emberglow" for the dash, speaker grille, windshield posts. I had a heck of a time finding the paint and dye's needed to restore mine but finally did, took time though.
Hopefully I picked the right codes, heck even the local Mustang parts shop guy was a bit confused on the interior, he'd never seen one before
and he'd pretty much seen everything. Ol' Mustang Bill, he's passed on now, was a good guy and he'd give it to you straight with the 'bark on it', I probably paid for his retirement with the money i spent on parts from him at the time. (I didn't know anybody restoring a 66' Mustang back in the late 80's - early 90's), kinda wondering what the heck i was thinking then but hey I learned a lot from doing it.

Stuff like the rear axle codes, my car came with a 8inch rear, 289-automatic 4v (A-code) and a 1967 -2.89:1 ratio rear gear, at the time I just had it rebuilt and re-installed, figured i'd change it later. Haven't done that yet but it's on the "to do list".
Still, it's a good cruiser gear and I can go 70+ on the hiway if needed (engine tends to get a bit warm if i do for too long) without getting to hi on the rpms.
I think the fastest I've gone in it was prob 120+ but the front end started rising up a bit, that was a hairy ride!

So for your Vin tag, record your info on "what you want it to say" once it's created. Then mull on it for a while before you do in case you change your mind or the car's setup before you replace the tag.

Like my rear gear, I assumed the car prob came with a 3.00:1 gear and was going for a tag with that but now I'm mulling a 3.50 -3.89 posi, if I stay 8inch, or do the 9in rear upgrade with
something in the 3.50 ~ 3.89 range.
I just figured i'd like the tag to represent what I actually have since I'm not 100% sure what it originally was.

But that's me, you do like you wish there, you could always buy another vin tag I guess.

Well Good luck with your project and glad I could help,

T

Oh on the tag from the transmission, I believe for Ford parts stampings, the letter "C" designates the 1960's so C9 should be 1969.
Like C5=1965 and so on.
The 1970's were designated with the letter "D"
Folks please correct me if i'm wrong here but that tag would probably mean the trans is a '69, for the motor, you'd need the casting code to tell.

I have a copy of the Ford Hi Performance Parts Identifier 1960-1973. (for reading the code tags - not like the engine stamping you photo'd)
Transmission tags go like this

PEA M1 =should be the transmission's model
assy plant code here - production date code here

This parts identifier book only had 4speed, FMX and C6 transmission info, didn't cover the C4 but odds are the coding is probably similar.

Your engine should have a casting part number (not a stamped number) like ex: C5AE-numbers here on one side around starter area.

Check out this link: Engine Block Parts Interchange for Small-Block Ford

T
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited by Moderator)
Again T,
Thankyou so much for the information, it looks like I may have a bitzer of a setup in the car. 1969 Transmission, a 1965 Engine Block, and a genuine 1965 Coupe body. I will need to check the rear end of the car as there is no tag on that either.

The only other casting number Ican find is on top of the engine. (See attached pic)

NZMatt
9BF2BBE4-4AA3-452B-8040-4D06FDE2BF51.jpeg
 

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Hey NZMatt, Yeah, mine was like that, my '66 had (when I got it) a 289 with 302 heads, 289 4v intake, and I think the original 4v autolite carb.
Not sure what your plans are but you very well could use what you have and get it all working and drive it.
Some of these car's had a rough well used life, no telling what you may find.

As far as the manifold picture, yeah C8 should be 1968, but the block is supposed to have a cast number on it too, but 289 and 302 stuff is interchangeable to a degree
so if someone did a "put together" anything's possible.

Well keep on working on it and I hope you come up with a plan, i'm sure it'll be a fine machine when you're done with it.

Try to remember to have fun with it, sweating the details will take the fun out of it and you'll end up buying another project to take your mind of this one
(which is how I ended up buying a VW Thing) LOL

keep in touch,

T
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thanks again T,
Only trying to give the respect that it deserves. Yep I’ll keep going with it. The plan is to get it back to as factory as I can. That’s how it was when it left the factory, if I can hide some stuff under stickers well so be it. But on the cosmetic look at it it will appear stock. I plan on handling this over to my boys later on anyway.
May the journey continue.

Regards

NZMatt
 
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