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I have a problem. Im 6'2" and when I sit in my stang my head is rubbing on the head liner. I am hoping that someone on here can help me figure out a way to lower the seat height in the car.
HELP!! too tall for my 67 fastback!!
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A problem for you
hi! dne' here! I have nothing better to do, so I thought I would take a stab at this!:gringreen
As you can see in the photo, and I have to figure that you have not installed any other kind of aftermarket seats? Some people go through a great deal of work by having to relocate the seat platform! I would think removing the seat platform, then modifying it to the height that you want, and maybe even moving it back a few inches to allow for more leg room. Some even remove the seat platforms all together and install seats from, say, an E36 BMW that mounts directly to the floor. This particular seat may not be the best example though. I didn't go with the BMW seat cause my floor pan wasn't in the best of shape. But if you're wanting to use your factory seats, then modifying the seat platform is going to be the only way I know. May be a good time to install new carpet too?:bigthumbsup I hope this helped somewhat.
dne'
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hi! dne' here! I have nothing better to do, so I thought I would take a stab at this!:gringreen
As you can see in the photo, and I have to figure that you have not installed any other kind of aftermarket seats? Some people go through a great deal of work by having to relocate the seat platform! I would think removing the seat platform, then modifying it to the height that you want, and maybe even moving it back a few inches to allow for more leg room. Some even remove the seat platforms all together and install seats from, say, an E36 BMW that mounts directly to the floor. This particular seat may not be the best example though. I didn't go with the BMW seat cause my floor pan wasn't in the best of shape. But if you're wanting to use your factory seats, then modifying the seat platform is going to be the only way I know. May be a good time to install new carpet too?:bigthumbsup I hope this helped somewhat.
dne'
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You can take out the seat platforms and modify the original seat tracks to bolt right to the floor therefore keeping the original seats.
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what would be involved in removing them? i dont know how to do metal work so id have to get it done. If cutting and welding is required any idea what it would cost to get it done and what would be needed to fit the seats directly to the floor?
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I know they are welded to the floor. Look around on the web, there is probably a company that makes shortened seat pans for taller people.
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quite a task
Hi again! I would classify this as quite a task if you have no metal working/welding experience. Obviously all the carpet, underlayment stuff has to come out(good time for new carpet?). How are the existing floor pans in your stang now? Have they ever been replaced? You can look underneath the car and inspect the floor pans from down below, but I think you'd know if your floor pans were in bad shape. Once the carpet is removed, or at least pulled back out of the way to expose the floor pan in question, then spot welds have to be drilled out, cut to separate the seat platform from its welds. It will more than likely be destroyed(but an experienced person may able to salvage it cause it will have to be modified anyway, and new access to the seat bolts have to be made as the seat is being moved). However a new seat platform is not that expensive. If you just don't want to mess with it, then you'll have to find someone. perhaps a nearby restoration shop, or body shop may be able to do it. Determining the height of your newly positioned seat platform is up to you and your metal man/bodyman. Your existing carpet is conformed to fit the existing platform configuration and will require some "fixin". I honestly think it wouldn't be a terribly expensive thing to have done, unless there is additional repairs/floor pan repairs needed. Maybe figuring roughly shop rates of 70 bucks an hour x how many hours to do it? 2-3 hours maybe? plus new carpet, seat platform, etc.). Hope this helps.:bigthumbsup
Hi again! I would classify this as quite a task if you have no metal working/welding experience. Obviously all the carpet, underlayment stuff has to come out(good time for new carpet?). How are the existing floor pans in your stang now? Have they ever been replaced? You can look underneath the car and inspect the floor pans from down below, but I think you'd know if your floor pans were in bad shape. Once the carpet is removed, or at least pulled back out of the way to expose the floor pan in question, then spot welds have to be drilled out, cut to separate the seat platform from its welds. It will more than likely be destroyed(but an experienced person may able to salvage it cause it will have to be modified anyway, and new access to the seat bolts have to be made as the seat is being moved). However a new seat platform is not that expensive. If you just don't want to mess with it, then you'll have to find someone. perhaps a nearby restoration shop, or body shop may be able to do it. Determining the height of your newly positioned seat platform is up to you and your metal man/bodyman. Your existing carpet is conformed to fit the existing platform configuration and will require some "fixin". I honestly think it wouldn't be a terribly expensive thing to have done, unless there is additional repairs/floor pan repairs needed. Maybe figuring roughly shop rates of 70 bucks an hour x how many hours to do it? 2-3 hours maybe? plus new carpet, seat platform, etc.). Hope this helps.:bigthumbsup
Give this a reading Mustangs Plus - Tech Articles - Lowering Seat Pans (Page 1) I'm 6'2 260lbs and i fit fine in my 68 coupe but the coupe roof is flat the fastback it arches down.You could maybe try different seats that are not as tall.Lowering the seat pans price i have no clue.Call around to any car restorer or custom shop and see how much they will charge you.
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I'm 6'1" but my head never touched the headliner in my Coupe, I could put a couple of fingers between them, but I have two suggestions that may be less invasive that cutting/welding:
1. I replaced my stock seats with '87-'93 fox body seats, more for safety and comfort than height. The '67 seats stopped at my shoulder blades so I was always afraid of whiplash should I be hit from behind and my back would get sore on long rides. The foxbody seats will recline so a little tilt gives you more head room as you go back. I used the foxbody sliders and chiseled the 'feet' off so that they sat at the same seat height as my '67's. I used a 1" wideX1/4" thick piece of steel flat bar and some carriage bolts to mate the foxbody sliders to the seat risers. This also allowed me to mount the seat back a couple inches, now I don't even need full extension to get comfortable. The seats also have an electric lumbar and headrests. TMI makes seat covers for them that are stiched like the classics to match my back seat and look like the originals. I liked this option as I drive the car more since doing it, feel more retained in my seat and am also adding 3pt. belts with chrome buckles to appear '60's. I don't weld and used a drill, hacksaw and files to do the install.
2. Go UP, I was considering this also, replace the hanging headliner with a foam contour fit one like some newer cars. I spoke with a local upholsterer and they use a foam and then shave/file it to shape. I don't know how easy it would be to do DIY or how much $ it would be to have an upholsterer do it , you may want to get a couple quotes. That should give you an inch or two there, I've never had mine out to measure how far the stock type hangs.
Good luck,
Jon
1. I replaced my stock seats with '87-'93 fox body seats, more for safety and comfort than height. The '67 seats stopped at my shoulder blades so I was always afraid of whiplash should I be hit from behind and my back would get sore on long rides. The foxbody seats will recline so a little tilt gives you more head room as you go back. I used the foxbody sliders and chiseled the 'feet' off so that they sat at the same seat height as my '67's. I used a 1" wideX1/4" thick piece of steel flat bar and some carriage bolts to mate the foxbody sliders to the seat risers. This also allowed me to mount the seat back a couple inches, now I don't even need full extension to get comfortable. The seats also have an electric lumbar and headrests. TMI makes seat covers for them that are stiched like the classics to match my back seat and look like the originals. I liked this option as I drive the car more since doing it, feel more retained in my seat and am also adding 3pt. belts with chrome buckles to appear '60's. I don't weld and used a drill, hacksaw and files to do the install.
2. Go UP, I was considering this also, replace the hanging headliner with a foam contour fit one like some newer cars. I spoke with a local upholsterer and they use a foam and then shave/file it to shape. I don't know how easy it would be to do DIY or how much $ it would be to have an upholsterer do it , you may want to get a couple quotes. That should give you an inch or two there, I've never had mine out to measure how far the stock type hangs.
Good luck,
Jon
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