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Hello, I have had this idle issue for some time now. Cant seem to figure out what it is. My car will idle fine then when it gets warmed up it surges and drops and keeps doing this until the car stalls. If I unplug my IAC the car will idle all day long. As soon as i drive it it wants to stall and i have to fight to keep it alive but there are some times when driving it idles fine. I have searched for vacuum leaks have not found any, reset the idle and TPS. still idles bad. No EGR. I have a built motor. stock block bored .03 over, stock crank, stock rods, forged pistons flat top 4 relief, stock distributor, ford racing wires, msd blaster coil, brodix alum heads 58.5 cc. lunati cam http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1658&gid=281
Long tube headers, paxton sn92 s/c 5psi, 24lbs injectors, paxton fuel control unit.

I have notice that when my idle fluctuates the reading at my TPS sensor changes as well. I have had my alternator tested and it tested good. The car runs great and pulls hard. My timing is in between 14 and 15. My idea is that my alternator is actually bad, or TPS sensor could be bad but i tried a different and still no fix. IAC is new. I could have a small vacuum leak hiding somewhere. I have all my vacumm sensors unplugged on the passenger side.

This is off topic i noticed when i was timing it when i loosened the bolt for the distributor i turned the dist. counterclock wise while the key was on and the fuel pump turned on. That makes no sense to me. Made a click and the pump turned on. I tried moving the wire to the dist. and nothing, it only does it if the dist moves. Any help is good help. Thanks.
 

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Check your M.A.F. sensor first. Take the electronic part out and CAREFULLY clean the little wires with a Q-tip and elec cleaner or alcohol. Take the neg. terminal on the battery loose while you do this to reset the computer. Drive it around for a while to see if that helps. If not, a failing fuel pump can cause the stalling issue like you desribe. Start with the basics, like changing the fuel filter and scanning for codes(In fact, do the "key on engine off" before unhooking the battery)
The clicking noise is from the hall-effect pip sensor in the distributor making contact and sending the signal to the fuel pump.
 

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i would say pick up a haynes manual at napa, advanced what ever you have next to you :bigthumbsup all codes are in the book and it's a good thing to have good luck
 
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