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Discussion Starter #1
I am doing research for my build.

I have 68 fastback with a 351W, around 363 after machining. It produces around 400 HP with a red line of 7000 RPM. My transmission is a TKO-I (260 0708) which is listed for up to 425 lb-ft of torque but has the upgraded 31 spine output. I'm getting opinions on the myriad of clutches available. I will be using a manual clutch cable. What are the benefits of some of the more popular clutches such as the Spec, Cobra, Centerforce, etc. I am particularly interested in longevity (most important as I have a history of burning through clutches) and smoothness. Given this history I'm willing to spend within reason, maybe up to $600 so no $2k carbon steel clutches. My car will be a street/strip car.

Also any info/opinions on flywheel brands as well would be welcomed as well as need/benefit of a torque converter?

Thanks.
 

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This outfit that I have been buying clutches from these guys for 30+ years is family owned and have used their clutches in many applications from Hot Rods, work trucks & racing applications. Just tell them of any concerns, what you have, etc and they will discuss with you what their recommendations are...I can honestly state that I have never had and issue with anything I have every purchased from them and it always works the 1st time- just like it is suppose to! They typically cost less than most of the competitors, provide 24 hour turn-around and the assemblies always work (literally) just exactly the way they should....I just can't say enough about these guys. Just tell them what you have, how you use it and any concerns/issues.

Clutchmasters
267 E. Valley Blvd.
Rialto, CA
909-877-6800

I am also not a fan of most of the "mail order" clutch guru's for street use vehicles and that includes McLeod, etc. A good local clutch rebuilder is best to purchase from.....in most cases they have access to the same or better components, have direct experience with the vehicle you specifically have, have direct knowledge of general drivetrain/chassis issues, are faster and cheaper than most of the oem replacement units.

Well, let me tell you about the last McCleod clutch "kit" that I bought..........
The vehicle it was going in was modified, cam, etc....just a real nice street engine- all newly rebuilt. Now, McCleod who I purchased this directly from (and I'm showing my age now), knew exactly what the vehicle was & its intended use.....I received my clutch a few days later.....(I'm in SoCal), with a note...don't downshift with this clutch it will cause pre-mature wear.

You have to be kidding me...I lived in the San Bernardino Mountains! I called them and basically they advised that warning was only for racing applications (what the ?)

Within 6 months, this custom built heavy duty clutch required re-adjustment monthly, & was completely worn out....pressure plate springs were weak (2 had completely failed to the point you could press them down by hand), the disc was worn & the diaphragm springs failed causing the disc to begin to warp........this was on a new, hand built engine.....which and was during the initial break in so it was not abused!

I replaced it with a unit from Clutchmasters......never an issue, nor on the other 6+ vehicles I have used them in.

Hays used to build nice clutches but was sold to a fortune 500 about 10+ years ago. Centerforce was also known for quality products.

Others input on McLeod

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...gt-tech/733178-how-long-does-clutch-last.html
AlloyPony
My dad and I put a McLeod clutch in his '03 Terminator this summer at the advice of the local dyno shop. His car makes around 500 at the rear tires. They told him the twin disc McLeod was the best thing he could buy. Said that they are expensive...but you get what you pay for.

So, he threw down the coin for the McLeod and we put it in. Pedal felt awesome and car drove great. FIRST trip out to the cruise in on Saturday night the car smoked the clutch. Smoked it so bad that he couldn't even drive it home. Took it back out and went down to the shop and of course they wouldn't stand behind it. But the guy pointed at the discs and said "there's your problem". The McLeod had "Made in China" stamped on the friction discs.

So...long story short he paid to have the discs re-lined with quality American made Kevlar friction material and the car has been fine ever since. But I seriously doubt he'll buy another McLeod clutch ever again. Or listen to hear-say about performance parts ever again for that matter. Lol. That was a very expensive lesson.

I think the clutch that came out of the car was a Centerforce clutch. It had been in there for a long time...like 3 or 4 years of being beaten on.

McLeod RST Twin Disc Clutch Heads Up - The Mustang Collective Forums

Nice Pony
McLeod RST Twin Disc Clutch started dragging after a couple of weeks. Called McLeod, after determining that indeed the clutch was dragging Lee said to pull it, send the whole assembly including the flywheel to him and he would fix it and make sure it worked properly. He also noted to us that the two disks are different thickness and on a rare occasions his supplier of the discs has shipped the wrong sizes. When we pulled the clutch and it was right away obvious, three nuts on studs that hold the floater plate to the adapter plate installed at the factory and there is no mention of torqueing them, removing them or anything at all in the installation manual. They all three had back off so obviously they had not been tightened at the factory. Installation instructions on the McLeod web site that were different then what shipped with the clutch. On the web site it states to torque the three floater plate nuts to 25ft-lbs and use Red Locktite on them which obviously never had been done at the factory. The floater plate was burned a little so we sent the entire assembly to Lee to refresh it.

After getting the clutch rebuilt and re-installed, the same issue persists. The clutch will not dissengage properly if you come to a stop with the transmission in gear and the clutch pedal depressed. It also has a rougher than average engagement from 1st to 2nd, or 2nd to 3rd for the TR6060. It doesnt happen every time, but probably 50% of the time. After taking the transmission out for the third time in 2 months, I have to give up on this clutch.

05MoneyPit

Got the same clutch in my car but I'm running a TKO600. Engagement is solid and brutal but shifting it is a PITA. Mike PowerHouse411 fought with it also when they did the engine rebuild. Tried different T/O spacing set-ups and now have a steel line from the master but it still isn't smooth. I just can't hit 2nd and 3rd like I think I should be able to. Sent the unit back to McLeod once, they re-built it and it was better for a while but has never been perfect.
 

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clutch

I am using a center force with tko 3550 trans running a builded a 4 barrel 351 c .I have ran it hard for about 6 years now stock turned flywheel still doing great.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
This outfit that I have been buying clutches from these guys for 30+ years is family owned and have used their clutches in many applications from Hot Rods, work trucks & racing applications. Just tell them of any concerns, what you have, etc and they will discuss with you what their recommendations are...I can honestly state that I have never had and issue with anything I have every purchased from them and it always works the 1st time- just like it is suppose to! They typically cost less than most of the competitors, provide 24 hour turn-around and the assemblies always work (literally) just exactly the way they should....I just can't say enough about these guys. Just tell them what you have, how you use it and any concerns/issues.

Clutchmasters
267 E. Valley Blvd.
Rialto, CA
909-877-6800
...
I never really thought about a local rebuilder. Great way to forge a relationship as well as the accountability of them being a local business.
 
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