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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone. I'm just looking for some opinions on future modifications to my Mustang. I've saved up around $3,000 dollars but am not sure where to start. I'm looking to gain horsepower mostly for occasional quarter miles racing. This is a daily driver in the summer time and stored in the winter. I'm not looking for a race car but something pretty quick I can take to the track a few times a year and have fun. Here is what I'm currently working with. 2000 Spring Edition Mustang GT Convertible, 5 speed, 18 inch chrome bullet wheels, Hurst shifter, bbk off road h-pipe, 40 series flowmasters, bbk cai, bbk 70mm throttle body, eibach front and rear sway bar, 373 gears. Thank you for your opinions I'm advance.
 

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For $3K you're almost in the realm of supercharging. You also should think about suspension and brake upgrades. You don't need to go crazy, but at a bare absolute minimum subframe connectors and good lower control arms (UPR, Maximum Motorsports .... There are many others, but those are two I like).
 

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I'd step up to 4.30's, some stage 2 cams, a nice clutch. a good dyno tune. or get a used procharger (usually 2k) use the extra grand to tune it, run about 430RWHP.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for reply guys. I know I definitely need subframe connectors with having a convertible. I will start there and with the control arms you mentioned. I've taken it to the track once and traction was horrible lol. I like the idea of supercharging it but after I mess with the suspension and if I get a tunner or get it tuned I don't think I'd have enough once I factor in labor. If I remember right the sct tunners are almost 400 bucks. What's cams usually run to have installed?
 

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It being a convertible it should alredy have sub frame connectors on it. I took my bone stock 02 covertible and put a kenne bell 2.1l intercooled kit on it. I had the stock sub frame connectors welded in. I also have UPR lower controls arms in it as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the idea. Maybe welding mine in will help a little. I'll definitely have to look into the upr control arms. It seems like a lot of people really like them.
 

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If you are looking into to taking it to the track, being a convertible and the HP you are pursuing you may need to get a 4 or 6 point rollcage. I'm not sure of the NHRA rules on the time limitations for a convertible without a rollcage but that will be the biggest hinderance at the track. Just something to think about...
 

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I'd advise against welding the flimsy short stock connectors in place , go with Steeda or MM FLSFC's . Lower the car ~1.5" and add a centri blower as mentioned .
 

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I'd advise against welding the flimsy short stock connectors in place , go with Steeda or MM FLSFC's . Lower the car ~1.5" and add a centri blower as mentioned .
^ THIS, regarding the subframe connectors. The factory ones are really just floorpan stiffeners more than anything else. They're not long enough to connect the front and rear subframes of the chassis together in the first place, as the term "subframe connector" implies and even if they were they are still constructed out of some pretty thin steel which lacks the rigidity necessary to actually be effective.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the information on the subframe connectors. I'll go ahead and choose an aftermarket set to have installed. I'm not sure about the NHRA rules with convertibles either buy hopefully I don't need a rollcage seeing this is still something I drive daily throughout the summer. It only has 36 thousand miles on it so I would hate to have to cage it.
 

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Thanks for the information on the subframe connectors. I'll go ahead and choose an aftermarket set to have installed. I'm not sure about the NHRA rules with convertibles either buy hopefully I don't need a rollcage seeing this is still something I drive daily throughout the summer. It only has 36 thousand miles on it so I would hate to have to cage it.
I have the same problem with getting my car on a track - as well of a lack of tracks to go to.

Did some brief looking around a few years ago, and as I recall the NHRA rules on 'verts was anything running quicker than 13.5 needed a 4 point bar. I was thinking about going out to Willow Springs Raceway earlier this summer as it's only about an hour and a half away from me, but their track rules stated that all convertibles must have a bar, regardless of e.t.

So in addition to NHRA reg's, also be sure to look up what the rules of your local track might be, as the NHRA stuff is merely a minimum governing requirement or set of guidlines, any given track may choose to be more comprehensive.

Needless to say, my next Mustang (should I be so fortunate) will be a hardtop so I don't gotta deal with that bs. Probably also will be a 5.0....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'll definitely have to look into the rules at our local track before going this summer. I took it last year but was only running 14.40's so no one said anything to me about it. Lol maybe I should just buy a hardtop as well.
 

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Another vote for the subframe connectors.

I had a pair of Kenny Brown subframe connectors welded into my '00 GT, which was an otherwise mostly stock coupe, and it made a major difference in how composed the car seemed in turns and on bumpy surfaces. I also credit them with keeping my car pretty much rattle-free for many many miles, which is the original reason I got them. The change in handling was just a bonus.

For a 'vert making that much power you'll probably want full length connectors; mine were not although they had a cross-brace that attached to the seat frame bolts, which tightened things up nicely. The stock ones don't have that cross-brace that I know of.
 

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Are you doing work yourself, or do you pay someone to do it for you? A supercharger would be nice, but what is the extra power without traction? If you decide on spending the 3k on your current car instead of eventually getting a hardtop, I suggest doing suspension work. Lower it about 1.5" (I have the H&R SS springs and love them), get new shocks and struts all around, caster camber plates, new ball joints and bump steer kit, new bushings all around, lower control arms, upper control arms, thicker sway bars, and definitely subframe connectors! If money allows it, maybe add some cams and a dyno tune as well. A little thing that might help airflow would be a bigger plenum, since you already have a bigger throttle body and a CAI.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have done all my work on my current and past mustangs but I have no experience with superchargers and have only done a cam swap on a 302. I've never really messed with the 4.6 and from what I read It's a lot more difficult. I'd probably give it a go though before I paid a shop lol. I'm going to take your advice and ay least start on the suspension and go from there. I was checking out the trick flow top end get for the 4.6 but I don't know if it's worth it. Tax time is approaching so I could always come up with a little more cash lol.
 

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I have done all my work on my current and past mustangs but I have no experience with superchargers and have only done a cam swap on a 302. I've never really messed with the 4.6 and from what I read It's a lot more difficult. I'd probably give it a go though before I paid a shop lol. I'm going to take your advice and ay least start on the suspension and go from there. I was checking out the trick flow top end get for the 4.6 but I don't know if it's worth it. Tax time is approaching so I could always come up with a little more cash lol.
The user WillyG on this forum has the Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads combined with a supercharger and he makes quite a lot of power! I've read a lot about supercharges on these 4.6L and the install is usually not to hard, just requires time and patience. Cams should be quite doable too, but personally I would rather pay someone to do the timing and tuning for me as I don't want it to get messed up. Suspension work is someone most people can do in their driveway. I would get subframe connectors if I had a welder (and yes, I know how to weld), but I'll hold it off until after I've done control arms and intake.

You could go halfway with the suspension and do subframe connectors and control arms, which will help traction a lot, and get a used supercharger, install it yourself if you can, and pay for a dyno tune. You should be able to stay within budget, but I know many recommend not to get used superchargers or turbo's because you never know how the previous owner treated them. It's all up to you though! I'm sure someone with more experience regarding cams and forced induction will chip in and give you some good advice.
 

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Since it's a 5-speed with 3.73 gears, UPR Suspension & Subframe connectors will make a HUGE difference in your launches, especially on sticky tires. Plus, UPR Products are Made in America and they carry a Lifetime guarantee, so the choice is made easy.

Your car would run 12s NA on UPR suspension and sticky tires.
 

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^ THIS, regarding the subframe connectors. The factory ones are really just floorpan stiffeners more than anything else. They're not long enough to connect the front and rear subframes of the chassis together in the first place, as the term "subframe connector" implies and even if they were they are still constructed out of some pretty thin steel which lacks the rigidity necessary to actually be effective.
I had my torque boxes ripping right off the car. When I had battle boxes installed the stock sub frames connectors where wellded in as well. If you have the car jacked up with the top down you can tell the car stills has some flex in it. Especially if you open the door. However they were welded on both sideds front and back and did make a noticable difference.
 

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I had my torque boxes ripping right off the car. When I had battle boxes installed the stock sub frames connectors where wellded in as well. If you have the car jacked up with the top down you can tell the car stills has some flex in it. Especially if you open the door. However they were welded on both sideds front and back and did make a noticable difference.
Hmmm, well I certainly won't argue with your experience on that. But I still stand by what I said about the stock ones as far as length and rigidity as compared to a set of full length aftermarket ones.

****** thing is, I still need to get mine installed. I've had a set of MM sfc's for like 5+ years now. Took them out and got them all primered and painted and ready to go, slipped them back in the box and then next thing I knew I must have sneezed and got my wife pregnant and they've been in a corner in the garage ever since, lol. Just gonna have to run down to GTR one of these days and have them do it I guess.
 

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SFC's are probably my favorite and most noticeable driving mod to the car so far . The Steeda connectors include a u-shape plate bracket that gets stitch and plug welded , wraping the rear torque box , the connector then is welded to this reinforcing plate .
 
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