[hacker-pschorr]

I have a replica cobra (factory five) with an 87 5.0 running speed density.

Long story short I'm trying to hunt down a strange high idle when warm (new thermostat installed).

I ran the error codes (engine off) and came up with:

67, 81, 82, 85

I'm finding conflicting meanings for some of these codes around the net.
Does anyone have an accurate list of what these are?

My engine is a stock 87 with a Cobra intake, no cats with side pipes off the stock manifolds.

Thanks!

 

[FoxChassis]

Did you put the transmission in neutral while running the test? If not, that's why you got fault code 67.

Did you install the Thermactor Managed Air ("smog") system? If not that's why you got fault codes 81 and 82.

Did you install the Evaporative Emissions ("charcoal canister") system? If not that's why you got fault code 85.

 

[hacker-pschorr]

Does the transmission error come into play on a 5-speed? It was not in neutral.

No smog equipment on this car, no air pump or charcoal canister.

EGR is on the TB - not sure if it's still connected to the heads. That was my next project.

Here is what's happening, actually two problems. Crusing around my temp gauge (autometer) stays between 140-160 degrees fahrenheit and idles fine. On a hot day, if I'm putzing around town or find myself sitting still for a while, the temp gauge starts to climb, so does the idle. Sometimes idle will climb as high as 2,500rpm with the temp gauge reading 210+

I swapped out the thermostat thinking that might be stuck open, tested the old one in a pot of water, it's working just fine so no change there.

I went through the steps to reset idle on the SD cars many times, no change. Voltage on the TPS is where it should be (it was last fall when I last checked this).

When it's doing the high idle, if I disconnect the ISV it will settle down to a normal idle. So on hot days last July, I simply disconnect the ISV once the engine is warmed up and everything is fine.
I did install a new ISV last year, nothing changed.

So I've been leaning towards one of the temp senders (either intake air or coolant) but not 100% sure. Reason why I wanted to check on the error codes.

 

[FoxChassis]

Does the transmission error come into play on a 5-speed? It was not in neutral.

Yes, and that was probably your problem. Do it again in neutral and fault code 67 should disappear. If not there is a problem with the neutral safety circuit.

No smog equipment on this car, no air pump or charcoal canister.

That's why you're getting fault codes 81, 82, and 85.

EGR is on the TB - not sure if it's still connected to the heads. That was my next project.

EGR does not connect to the (back of the) heads. The Thermactor system does.

Why run EGR if you're not running Thermactor and EVAP?

Crusing around my temp gauge (autometer) stays between 140-160 degrees fahrenheit

That is WAY too cold for any engine that isn't rebuilt every year/season. You're washing the cylinders down with fuel and it's getting into the oil. Oil mixed with fuel isn't a very good lubricant. You're also accelerating cylinder wall wear.

When it's doing the high idle, if I disconnect the ISV it will settle down to a normal idle. So on hot days last July, I simply disconnect the ISV once the engine is warmed up and everything is fine.
I did install a new ISV last year, nothing changed.

What is an ISV?

So I've been leaning towards one of the temp senders (either intake air or coolant) but not 100% sure.

No fault codes for either the ECT or the ACT, but you didn't do an ER (engine running) test either. You should do that.

 

[hacker-pschorr]

EGR does not connect to the (back of the) heads. The Thermactor system does.

Gotcha - what is the EGR supposed to be hooked up to?

Why run EGR if you're not running Thermactor and EVAP?

Reason why I asked the previous question. I was a bit suprised to see it on there. I'm guessing the person who setup the motor didn't have the necessary parts to remove it. Just a guess. I want to take it off since like you said, it's no longer needed on my engine.

That is WAY too cold for any engine that isn't rebuilt every year/season. You're washing the cylinders down with fuel and it's getting into the oil. Oil mixed with fuel isn't a very good lubricant. You're also accelerating cylinder wall wear.

I think the gauge is faulty or the gauge sender is messed up. I've tested this motor with one of those laser temp sensors, everything comes out normal (block, coolant lines etc..).

What is an ISV?

Idle Stabalizer Valve

No fault codes for either the ECT or the ACT, but you didn't do an ER (engine running) test either. You should do that.

That is next on my list, wanted to investiage these before moving on incase there was an obvious problem.



Back to the temp gauge:
The autometer sender is connected to an adaptor, I'm thinking this setup is keeping the sender from receiving an accurate reading:

As for the coolant temp sender for the ECU, that is also connected to an adaptor. IMO if I'm using a stock sender, an adaptor should not be necessary and might be causing part of the problem.

Here is a picture of the coolant temp sender:

Thanks for all the help, the car runs fine except for this, very annoying.

 

[hacker-pschorr]

EGR does not connect to the (back of the) heads. The Thermactor system does.

Gotcha - what is the EGR supposed to be hooked up to?

Why run EGR if you're not running Thermactor and EVAP?

Reason why I asked the previous question. I was a bit suprised to see it on there. I'm guessing the person who setup the motor didn't have the necessary parts to remove it. Just a guess. I want to take it off since like you said, it's no longer needed on my engine.

That is WAY too cold for any engine that isn't rebuilt every year/season. You're washing the cylinders down with fuel and it's getting into the oil. Oil mixed with fuel isn't a very good lubricant. You're also accelerating cylinder wall wear.

I think the gauge is faulty or the gauge sender is messed up. I've tested this motor with one of those laser temp sensors, everything comes out normal (block, coolant lines etc..).

What is an ISV?

Idle Stabalizer Valve

No fault codes for either the ECT or the ACT, but you didn't do an ER (engine running) test either. You should do that.

I have the steps to do that, step #1 said resolve all non running errors first....

Back to the temp reading.
The autometer sender is connected to an adaptor, I'm thinking this setup is keeping the sender from receiving an accurate reading:

http://www.erik27.com/ffr/tempgauge/tg1.jpg


The temp sender for the ECU is also connected via an adaptor (I’m not sure why). I’m stopping by the Ford dealer after work to look at a new one, see if it’s the correct threads to be installed without the adaptor:

http://www.erik27.com/ffr/tempsender/001.jpg

Thanks for the help, the car runs find except for this high idle issue.